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Old 08-18-2009, 05:13 PM   #796
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Well, some good news from the organizers at the RCGT Showdown over on there thread in the racing forum section.

It seems a TB03 is leading the Pro RCGT points series.....



(With one throwout taken for the three rounds already run out of the two TO's that will be alotted for the six rounds)

Straight points no TO's taken I'm sitting 3rd.



Jimmy W
That's awesome! Your in a good position to win it...man that would be sweeet
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Old 08-18-2009, 07:22 PM   #797
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2nd place in sportsman is also driving a TB-03 . Can't miss any more races though.
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Old 08-18-2009, 07:54 PM   #798
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2nd place in sportsman is also driving a TB-03 . Can't miss any more races though.

Great job Jon! I didn't know you were running the mighty TB !
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Old 08-18-2009, 08:23 PM   #799
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Do you have wear on the edges of the bottom of your chassis? What kind of track surface and grip level are you racing on? 4-4.5mm ride height is very low. If you are pushing on power it might be from you dragging your chassis around. The white springs you have don't have a small dab of paint near the flat of the spring? Yellow's are pretty soft so If you are running that low of ride height I imagine your bottoming out. For outdoors I always start at 5.5 front, 6mm rear. As the day goes on I will go ahead and lower it to 5mm front, 5.5 rear and see what I like better that day. Running the height a little higher helps the chassis roll more helping the car turn better. It also keeps you from scrubbing the chassis or body in the turns. If anything on your car ever hits the track in a turn you need to fix it. How do you measure droop? Yes you increased caster when you added the shims to the front block. Along with what you have done, another thing you can try to loosen up the rear some is run a lower roll center in the rear. How many shims do you have on the rear uprights?
It's a little difficult to tell if I'm running too low simply from the scratches on the underside of my car as I sooort of hit the kerbs on the track pretty often and sail into the air like a buggy It's a wonder the car is still in one piece!

Nonetheless, I'll give increasing the ride height a try. Maybe I've just been overly influenced by the photos on protoform's website that show the cars REALLY low and close to the ground...

Speaking of track, the one I run on is an outdoor asphalt track, with probably medium levels of grip. I doubt it is "prepared", and in fact may even be a little dusty/dirty at certain corners. Sometimes I can hear car tires "screeching" at the hairpin corners, so I guess this means cars at the track are sliding a little?

My white springs have a dab of yellow paint at the end. This means they're the "white edition" of the yellow springs perhaps?

I haven't added any additional shims to the rear uprights (i just did them up according to the manual). Hmmm...where exactly are they to be placed and what effect does doing that have?

Thanks and cheers!
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Old 08-18-2009, 08:35 PM   #800
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2nd place in sportsman is also driving a TB-03 . Can't miss any more races though.
Thats great Between the two of you, the bases are covered Hope you take first!
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:33 PM   #801
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Thanks guys, happy to be in the TB-03 family. I'm glad I didn't sell my car to Chris Lim . Right now, I'm swapping the X-patterns for some B3s, getting ready for TCS. Hope to see you guys there.
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Old 08-18-2009, 10:28 PM   #802
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Thanks guys, happy to be in the TB-03 family. I'm glad I didn't sell my car to Chris Lim . Right now, I'm swapping the X-patterns for some B3s, getting ready for TCS. Hope to see you guys there.
im glad you didnt sell it to me either... but now you know how good the car is.

TCS is gonna be a lot of fun. it'd be great to see a bunch of TB-03s in the A-mains of each class. what class are you running?
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Old 08-18-2009, 10:33 PM   #803
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I'll be in GT2. I'll be happy if I get into the C main .

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im glad you didnt sell it to me either... but now you know how good the car is.

TCS is gonna be a lot of fun. it'd be great to see a bunch of TB-03s in the A-mains of each class. what class are you running?
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Old 08-18-2009, 11:03 PM   #804
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It's a little difficult to tell if I'm running too low simply from the scratches on the underside of my car as I sooort of hit the kerbs on the track pretty often and sail into the air like a buggy It's a wonder the car is still in one piece!
Hahaha I'm laughing with you on that one I've been doing some tuning with my 416 today and had a dumb thumb moment and broke a rear suspension arm First arm I've ever broke on a Tamiya...I thought they were indestructable hehe. I suggest you take some white shoe polish and outline the bottom of the chassis with it. Then turn a few laps. It will be pretty obvious then. And after your done it's easy to rub off.

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, I'll give increasing the ride height a try. Maybe I've just been overly influenced by the photos on protoform's website that show the cars REALLY low and close to the ground...
Yeah they purposely slam there cars in photos to make them look cooler. The only times I've been able to get my cars to work being that low is when running a stiff setup on very high traction.

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of track, the one I run on is an outdoor asphalt track, with probably medium levels of grip. I doubt it is "prepared", and in fact may even be a little dusty/dirty at certain corners. Sometimes I can hear car tires "screeching" at the hairpin corners, so I guess this means cars at the track are sliding a little?
Yeah their slipping a little. It's normal at hairpins where people are stabbing the brakes or turning really hard. A little is fine, but if your tires are howling around sweepers and other turns your losing time, and you probably need to make some changes. I asked about your track condition to help you with your setup, but the changes you made sounded good so let us know how the car feels to you when you take it out again.

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white springs have a dab of yellow paint at the end. This means they're the "white edition" of the yellow springs perhaps?
Yes that is the way Tamiya identifies them

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haven't added any additional shims to the rear uprights (i just did them up according to the manual). Hmmm...where exactly are they to be placed and what effect does doing that have?
I've included a picture of my car to try and help explain this a little better. So when I talk of location 1, I'm referring to the inner ball stud, 2 being the ball stud on the rear upright. The changes you make at these two points with shims will effect your roll center, and camber gain. This changes the way your chassis rolls, and how fast your camber changes. You can do a few things here like raise the entire link with shims at both 1 and 2, no shims at all, shims on 2 only, etc. On the TB03 I have found that running no shims at 1 and then playing with the amount at location 2 being the best way to go about tuning the rear of the car as far as the camber links are concerned. In the picture I posted, I'm using 0 shims at 1 and a 3mm shim at 2. A simple way of going about making changes here is to just remember that if the camber links are pointed down towards the center of the car, location 1, you will gain traction. If the camber links are more parallel with the suspension arm or angled down towards 2, the less traction you will have. So to give a example to help understand this further, lets say my car had just a little too much rear traction using 0 shims at 1 and 3mm shim at location 2. I could change the amount of shims at location 2, to 2mm and that would reduce some of my rear traction. Also, the angle of the front camber links have the same effect as the rear. Accept on the front of this car you would only change the amount of shims at the inner ball stud. It is a lot more complicated than what I explained, but hopefully I explained it clear enough to help out with some fine tuning on your car.
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:02 AM   #805
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So to give a example to help understand this further, lets say my car had just a little too much rear traction using 0 shims at 1 and 3mm shim at location 2. I could change the amount of shims at location 2, to 2mm and that would reduce some of my rear traction. Also, the angle of the front camber links have the same effect as the rear. Accept on the front of this car you would only change the amount of shims at the inner ball stud. It is a lot more complicated than what I explained, but hopefully I explained it clear enough to help out with some fine tuning on your car.
no wonder my car has so much steering. i have the spacers backwards!
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:30 AM   #806
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Hi guys,

1. I got a question about the shock rebound, Is this the one you measure if you want to get a certain value of rebound distance? (pls see attached file)

Thanks!

Im still in the process of building my car. you are right people, stay away from the philip screws. . just waiting for the hopups and titanium screws to arrive and hopefully I can finish my car soon and start racing again.

I painted the Takata body and attached the decals on it. and wow it looks really nice and it really looks realistic. I wonder if it handles well.
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:23 AM   #807
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I've included a picture of my car to try and help explain this a little better. So when I talk of location 1, I'm referring to the inner ball stud, 2 being the ball stud on the rear upright. The changes you make at these two points with shims will effect your roll center, and camber gain. This changes the way your chassis rolls, and how fast your camber changes. You can do a few things here like raise the entire link with shims at both 1 and 2, no shims at all, shims on 2 only, etc. On the TB03 I have found that running no shims at 1 and then playing with the amount at location 2 being the best way to go about tuning the rear of the car as far as the camber links are concerned. In the picture I posted, I'm using 0 shims at 1 and a 3mm shim at 2. A simple way of going about making changes here is to just remember that if the camber links are pointed down towards the center of the car, location 1, you will gain traction. If the camber links are more parallel with the suspension arm or angled down towards 2, the less traction you will have. So to give a example to help understand this further, lets say my car had just a little too much rear traction using 0 shims at 1 and 3mm shim at location 2. I could change the amount of shims at location 2, to 2mm and that would reduce some of my rear traction. Also, the angle of the front camber links have the same effect as the rear. Accept on the front of this car you would only change the amount of shims at the inner ball stud. It is a lot more complicated than what I explained, but hopefully I explained it clear enough to help out with some fine tuning on your car.
Wow, great explanation! If you don't mind, I would like to add that make sure you have ball stud of the correct length. I learned it the hard way.
Too shallow shimming with a too long ball stud and you wind up having it rubbing on the outdrives/wheel axles. While having thick shims with too short ball studs, can strip the thread on the up rights or bulkhead on relatively light knocks.

Cheers!!
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:33 AM   #808
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Wow, great explanation! If you don't mind, I would like to add that make sure you have ball stud of the correct length. I learned it the hard way.
Too shallow shimming with a too long ball stud and you wind up having it rubbing on the outdrives/wheel axles. While having thick shims with too short ball studs, can strip the thread on the up rights or bulkhead on relatively light knocks.

Cheers!!
Timmie - thanks! That was indeed well explained and easy to understand. I'm going to have to print out these posts and file them for reference sometime

kerk - thanks for the great advice too - something like that is easy to overlook and we only find out the hard way.

Can't wait to try out the tuning adjustments. Weekend's still far away - argh!
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:26 AM   #809
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I must be really weird....... (Quiet down Chris Lim)

I run 3mm shims in position 1 and no shims at position 2 front and rear!! I also run +1 camber on the front and 0 at the rear. I maybe giving away some secrets here but my TB carries corner speed like no bodies business and the amount of turn in speed I can (man I shouldn't post this) adjust with expo on the radio..... THERE I said it....

Alot of this though has to do with the X-pattern tires wearing correctly and maintaining a correct contact patch.


Jon,

What ever it takes for the Showdown Series. Lets make sure you are #1 after the next round and keep it that way through the end! I would love nothing more to have TB03's win both classes! (just "thinking with my dipstick!")



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Old 08-19-2009, 10:05 AM   #810
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Hi guys,

1. I got a question about the shock rebound, Is this the one you measure if you want to get a certain value of rebound distance? (pls see attached file)

Thanks!

Im still in the process of building my car. you are right people, stay away from the philip screws. . just waiting for the hopups and titanium screws to arrive and hopefully I can finish my car soon and start racing again.

I painted the Takata body and attached the decals on it. and wow it looks really nice and it really looks realistic. I wonder if it handles well.
Yes, you can measure it there. Keep it equal left to right and your good. I personally just build mine with no rebound usually...faster to do a rebuild and easier to get it equal. I also like the way the car feels. Sometimes I use a little rebound if the track is really ruff and bumpy.

NSX handles very well, no problems there. When you get your car back together take some pics so we can see...I love seeing other peoples cars
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