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Old 07-22-2009, 03:44 PM   #421
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My standard kit chassis has some bow in it (not flat), does anyone know how flat the carbon reinforced chassis is?


Also i have coverted the front end to non-ifs, And fitting the sway bars on the front seems hard to get right, as the car drives way different left to right once installed, any tips?
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:50 PM   #422
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gonna be testing the carbon tub this weekend. might as well since all the other parts are carbon composite It's a high traction asphalt so it should be ok. The stock one is a little too soft imo even for 17.5.
Cool, If you would post up your opinion of it after your race. The more opinions the better And good luck with your race! Shiny side up!
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:58 PM   #423
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If you are having an over steer problem going into a corner as the car slows down try either more caster angle (front arm kick) or just tighten the rear diff a little more.

Both will help with the on power push the car has out of the box.
Great advice!

The factory plastic diff loses its tension pretty easy. That is why I put a aluminum diff in mine. Keeps its setting a whole lot better and is more consistent.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:05 PM   #424
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Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
Great advice!

The factory plastic diff loses its tension pretty easy. That is why I put a aluminum diff in mine. Keeps its setting a whole lot better and is more consistent.
here's a fun test session for you timmie

try the plastic tub along with the plastic suspension arms... then try the carbon tub and arms.. then carbon tub with plastic arms...and plastic tub with carbon arms

its a test ive always wanted to do .... but cant find the time to try.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:06 PM   #425
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Thanks Timmie !!

That's some real good advise I can use. I was sure enough to help me out.
I never drove a belt drive before so gonna hae to look for one to drive on a track
Thanks again

JD
You are very welcome, and glad that I could help Hope you can figure out what car to buy soon * crosses fingers for TB03!* hahah
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:26 PM   #426
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
My standard kit chassis has some bow in it (not flat), does anyone know how flat the carbon reinforced chassis is?


Also i have coverted the front end to non-ifs, And fitting the sway bars on the front seems hard to get right, as the car drives way different left to right once installed, any tips?
I'm curious about this too. But if the carbon version isn't perfectly flat its not all that bad. I don't see where ride height has to be dead on, just close. As long as the car is even and not scraping the ground your good. I measure at 4 points on my chassis when checking ride height on all my cars and go from there.

If you haven't seen David Jun's article on droop you need to check it out. He is the man I met him once he helped me out with my EVO3http://tamiyausa.com/articles/featur...article-id=413
He covers a lot of great information here and this article should help you out with your sway bar adjustment. Very well written, clear and concise.
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:00 PM   #427
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here's a fun test session for you timmie

try the plastic tub along with the plastic suspension arms... then try the carbon tub and arms.. then carbon tub with plastic arms...and plastic tub with carbon arms

its a test ive always wanted to do .... but cant find the time to try.
Ummm Chris, I'm not too sure that would be all that fun!

But now that I think of it, I already have done half of them all accept the carbon tub hehe but I will give my opinion on what I have tried.

plastic tub along with the plastic suspension arms...low traction/low grip tires...Timmie says....IT'S OK!! High traction/high grip tires....IT'S NOT OK!!

and plastic tub with carbon arms.....low traction/low grip tires...might need to go a little softer in the rear....Timmie says, ITS OK!! High traction/high grip tires...the chassis absorbs a lot and makes the car too planted.....Timmie says, ITS NOT OK!!

Ok i just drank a mt.dew sorry I'm a little hyper I didn't like the plastic suspension because it would flex when I was messing with preload and the droop settings where inconsistent and changing after a couple of runs. Also it had more slop than I like even though it wasn't much. But combine that with the slop from the steering system and its excessive. If you left the plastic suspension and upgraded the steering it might be ok. But the stock stuff really is pretty good, Its just in the conditions I race in most of the time, they are not the best parts to use. After I get some more time with the car I hope to finally write out a detailed post about the car. Also I ordered the carbon chassis and braces to test next week up in Maryland for the nats warm up.
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:20 PM   #428
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Timmie,

I race at the 'C' most of the time.
I run all the stock plastics parts. You'll need that carbon stuff. We run jaco blues but the car is still stuck to the ground.
Either way it's all fun.
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Old 07-23-2009, 10:51 AM   #429
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Great advice!

The factory plastic diff loses its tension pretty easy. That is why I put a aluminum diff in mine. Keeps its setting a whole lot better and is more consistent.
Thats good to know Timmie.

I though maybe the springs needed to settle.

I'm trying to keep my TB as stock as possible to prove you don't need a $500 TC to be competitive in RCGT.

thanks for your help.

Jimmy Wright
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:05 PM   #430
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Timmie,

I race at the 'C' most of the time.
I run all the stock plastics parts. You'll need that carbon stuff. We run jaco blues but the car is still stuck to the ground.
Either way it's all fun.
Yeah the C has insane grip. I was chasing a setup on my 416 the whole day I was there at the last TCS race. I remember first time I put the car down in practice I traction rolled on the last turn before the straight away I have never traction rolled on asphalt HAHA! You going to be racing there next weekend for the warmup? Jimmy Mac will be with me, you can check out his new ride
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:16 PM   #431
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter View Post
Thats good to know Timmie.

I though maybe the springs needed to settle.

I'm trying to keep my TB as stock as possible to prove you don't need a $500 TC to be competitive in RCGT.

thanks for your help.

Jimmy Wright
That's awesome I hope you embarrass them all I know I really opened some peoples eyes up here locally, now I have people asking me, "So where is the best place to buy that car?" HEHEHE

Yeah the aluminum diff is a great upgrade and cheap! I got mine from ampdraw.com for 11.99. Can't beat that for a aluminum diff in any TC!
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:24 PM   #432
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That's awesome I hope you embarrass them all I know I really opened some peoples eyes up here locally, now I have people asking me, "So where is the best place to buy that car?" HEHEHE

Yeah the aluminum diff is a great upgrade and cheap! I got mine from ampdraw.com for 11.99. Can't beat that for a aluminum diff in any TC!
Dude, don't you have like 6 bodies to paint?!!! Get off the damn internet and get to work! You have to head off to Maryland tomorrow ya numbnut!!
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:38 PM   #433
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Dude, don't you have like 6 bodies to paint?!!! Get off the damn internet and get to work! You have to head off to Maryland tomorrow ya numbnut!!

"Now thats thinking with your dipstick Jimmy!"



Sorry couldn't resist..........
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:06 PM   #434
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"Now thats thinking with your dipstick Jimmy!"



Sorry couldn't resist..........
Haha, Nice! I actually need to crack the whip on Timmie sometimes, he gets too side tracked too easy!
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:59 PM   #435
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Dude, don't you have like 6 bodies to paint?!!! Get off the damn internet and get to work! You have to head off to Maryland tomorrow ya numbnut!!
Hahaha! yeah I know....I been steady at it. One things for sure, I hate painting mini cooper bodies Its like trying to paint the inside of my cereal bowl But got to get Laurie's car looking good As it stands right now though, don't think I will be going to sleep tonight lol!
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