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Old 07-14-2009, 09:43 AM   #346
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I've found that crunchy diffs are caused by the junk in the thrust bearing. be sure to spray it clean, take the extra step to spray out the diff housing half too. pack it with a ton of anti wear grease and it should come out silky smooth.
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Old 07-14-2009, 12:44 PM   #347
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I've found that crunchy diffs are caused by the junk in the thrust bearing. be sure to spray it clean, take the extra step to spray out the diff housing half too. pack it with a ton of anti wear grease and it should come out silky smooth.
Well, I'd say that even new, the metal diffs I've built on other cars are smoother than the stock TB03 diff. Personally, my hunch is its the plastic outdrives. Still, I think its smooth enough for me.
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Old 07-14-2009, 11:50 PM   #348
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Pics for Hebiki .

Here's the fan mount I ran @ surf city race 2. Motor temp was about 20-30 degrees cooler (even when I went from profile 6 - 7). Sorry for the messy wiring, I had to solder everything at the track and missed practice. I also had to replace a sensor wire.
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Tamiya TB-03-tbfan1.jpg   Tamiya TB-03-tbfan2.jpg   Tamiya TB-03-tbfan3.jpg  
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Old 07-15-2009, 12:58 AM   #349
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Default TB03 BLOCKS

I WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU GUYS IF WHAT I HAVE DONE IS RIGHT.

1. I HAVE THE TAMIYA SUSPENSION MOUNT HOP UPS
2. IF YOU WOULD NOTICE THE FRONT REAR AND THE REAR REAR PART OF THE CHASSIS HAVE SOME PLASTIC PARTS BLOCKING THE MOUNT TO BE PLACED WITH THE NUMBER AND LETTER CODE SEEN UP.
3. I SHAVED OFF THE PARTS
4. PUT THE PLASTIC SPACERS THEN MOUNT THE BLOCKS UPRIGHT WHERE THE CODES WERE TO BE SEEN.

I ONLY DID THIS ALTERATION JUST BECAUSE I WAS THINKING THAT MAYBE IF YOU PLANT THE FRONT FRONT MOUNT UPRIGHT THEN THE FRONT REAR MOUNT FACING DOWN IT WILL NOT BE EQUAL WHEN YOU PUT THE SHAFTS TOGETHER WITH THE LOWER ARMS.

PLEASE GIVE ME SOME INPUTS ON THIS ONE.

THANKS!
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Tamiya TB-03-img_0335.jpg   Tamiya TB-03-tb-03-chassis.jpg   Tamiya TB-03-tb03-plastic-parts.jpg  
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Old 07-15-2009, 04:51 AM   #350
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Thanks guys about the diff, i have ordered the better balls and the alloy outdrives.


J.Dy - the blue turnbuckle that goes from your sevo (the long one) is that a tamiya part? whats the part number?


Also does the tamiya titanium screw kit for this car have hex head or philips head screws?
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:22 AM   #351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Dy View Post
Pics for Hebiki .

Here's the fan mount I ran @ surf city race 2. Motor temp was about 20-30 degrees cooler (even when I went from profile 6 - 7). Sorry for the messy wiring, I had to solder everything at the track and missed practice. I also had to replace a sensor wire.
how much do i paypal you so i can get TWO of these for my TB-03s?
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:25 AM   #352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift and Sleek View Post
I WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU GUYS IF WHAT I HAVE DONE IS RIGHT.

1. I HAVE THE TAMIYA SUSPENSION MOUNT HOP UPS
2. IF YOU WOULD NOTICE THE FRONT REAR AND THE REAR REAR PART OF THE CHASSIS HAVE SOME PLASTIC PARTS BLOCKING THE MOUNT TO BE PLACED WITH THE NUMBER AND LETTER CODE SEEN UP.
3. I SHAVED OFF THE PARTS
4. PUT THE PLASTIC SPACERS THEN MOUNT THE BLOCKS UPRIGHT WHERE THE CODES WERE TO BE SEEN.

I ONLY DID THIS ALTERATION JUST BECAUSE I WAS THINKING THAT MAYBE IF YOU PLANT THE FRONT FRONT MOUNT UPRIGHT THEN THE FRONT REAR MOUNT FACING DOWN IT WILL NOT BE EQUAL WHEN YOU PUT THE SHAFTS TOGETHER WITH THE LOWER ARMS.

PLEASE GIVE ME SOME INPUTS ON THIS ONE.

THANKS!
the only time it wont be equal is if you are using the wrong blocks. i.e. NON-TB-03 blocks.

the new TB-03 blocks have a flat spot so you can flip it upside down to mount in the locations you stated above. if you use the "old" 415 blocks.. some of them dont have that flat spot and when using the 3mm spacer, it wont be equal.

so as long as you use TB-03 blocks, you'll be fine. otherwise your modification is fine also.
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Old 07-15-2009, 01:35 PM   #353
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how much do i paypal you so i can get TWO of these for my TB-03s?
Add me to the buying list for the dual fan setup! look really nice.
Seriously, if you're selling some... PM me the payment info.
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Old 07-15-2009, 02:31 PM   #354
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It's available at the r1wurks website.
http://shop.r1wurks.com/index.php?ma...a9fcf3c66adecf

that's just the mount, he expects the fans to be avilable by the end of the week. The fans are 25x25 btw.
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:41 PM   #355
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Originally Posted by J.Dy View Post
It's available at the r1wurks website.
http://shop.r1wurks.com/index.php?ma...a9fcf3c66adecf

that's just the mount, he expects the fans to be avilable by the end of the week. The fans are 25x25 btw.
sent you a PM.
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:05 PM   #356
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Wow nice fan setup! Very trick I mounted a fan to my car as well but it is no where as cool as yours

Well I finished my TB03 the other night. Can't wait to try it out! Little over a week to get a setup worked out on it before I head up to Maryland for the TCS race. So I am heading to my local track tomorrow to start playing with it. Tried to keep it as stock as possible so that I have a good baseline to work from but with having a ton of spares from my 2 TRF cars it was too tempting to not put a few things on it But for the most part the car is still built to kit specs minus the TRF shocks, spool and turnbuckles. I'm pretty sure that I will be changing the rear to xa/e blocks pretty quick in the day though, because I drive crazy

I was impressed by how smooth the drivetrain is with so little work done to it. Only needed to do some minor work here and there. Only shaft car I have built that was easier to get the drivetrain super free was my Evo5MS. Another thing I liked about the car is the rigidity of the chassis. As I was told by some of you on this forum, the car is pretty stiff. Caught me off guard when I was done with it and tried to flex it and went ! I LOVE how the spur gear and pinion are enclosed. That is so awesome! Bye bye stupid pebbles! And the inboard front suspension is so slick. I think at any race a TB03 owner goes to will get other drivers to say, "Oooooo cool front end!" well except maybe a Tamiya race

Things I don't like about the kit even though I haven't driven it yet? hehe Well the steering slop sucks. If they had spec'd thicker barrel shims it would have been better. I already ordered the upgraded steering to fix this. But for a lot of people it may not be a big deal. But I am OCD about steering linkage slop so I will just avoid touching the front wheels for now Second thing is the kit screws. Phillips head screws are EVIL! Unless you have a very nice set of screwdrivers and a leather glove to wear to protect against blisters, throw the screws in your parts box! Grab some hex headed screws before you build this car and you will be thankful. That and when the time comes to repair something you won't have to fuss with a phillips that strips on you. The last thing I didn't like was the plastic retainer clips for the drivecups on the main shaft. I will be changing that out for evo 5 cross pin and o-ring.

I will post some pics of my car sometime this week. As long as I don't total it tomorrow
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:48 PM   #357
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But for the most part the car is still built to kit specs minus the TRF shocks, spool and turnbuckles.
Is there a reason to do a spool over the front one way? Seems that on power they're equal while off power the one way would have more steering?
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:43 PM   #358
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Is there a reason to do a spool over the front one way? Seems that on power they're equal while off power the one way would have more steering?
On my cars I almost always run a spool. A spool gives you brakes when you need it like if you go into a corner a little hot, or you are driving right behind someone in a corner and you need to tap the brake mid turn to avoid hitting there car. With a one way this can be tricky to do without causing the rear of the car to come around since you only have rear wheel braking. That leads into my second reason, consistency. Spools are just more consistent. Most *not all* people run faster lap times with a spool. It gives you more confidence to drive a little harder knowing that if need be, you can slam the brakes without worry of sending your car into a spin. Also with a spool and a proper suspension setup a spool can help the front of your car "set in" when you get off the throttle before a sharp turn. Spools are also typically lighter in rotational mass than a one way. Yes, as you said they are equal on power.

Yes a one way will usually have more off power steering. Where a spool would bind your front two wheels to the same speed no matter what and possibly cause it to push, a one way will allow the front wheels to rotate at independent speeds off power increasing turn in. For that reason, I run a one way in extremely high traction situations. Like racing on carpet or a asphalt track with insane levels of grip...(The Coliseum in MD) Yeah, a spool can be made to work on super high traction but it makes you feel like you are fighting your car all the time because you kinda are The high grip combined with front tires that don't change speed independently with a spool makes the car feel bound up. With a one way it frees the car up and you can get into the turns quicker. On a large outdoor asphalt track with long flowing turns I might run a one way. I might be able to gain a little corner speed if there was a turn that I needed to let off just a little.

So a simplified version of my opinion

Asphalt- almost always I will use a spool.
Carpet- one way or a ball diff...(yeah i didn't mention but wasn't asked hehe)

Hope this is of some help, good luck!
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:20 AM   #359
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Thanks for the in depth reply. That was great
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:11 PM   #360
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Please email me at r1wurks@r1wurks.com for the Pro dual fan mounts.

$20 for the fan mounts & fans are sold separately.fans will be available within a week or two. you can also use any 25x25x10 or 25x25x6.

the fan mounts come with all the screws necessary. if you want to use a 25x25x6 fans your going to need 4 shorter screws.

just email me how many you need & paypal address & ill send you a paypal invoice.

please email me if you have any questions.


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