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Old 09-27-2011, 05:24 AM   #1966
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I have Spec R Gear diffs in the front and rear and the rear diff keeps stripping every 3 runs, any reasons why this keeps happening? Do you guys have any rear gear diff stripping problems too, with either the spec r diffs or the tamiya ones?

If some fluid leaks onto the gear, can it cause it to strip? If yes, how do u seal it.

What greases are you using? The spec r diff gear is made of nylon.

I am using an ezrun 8.5t 4000kv motor with 3s Lipo. I have the punch on the highest setting, would that really make a difference in wear?

I really like this car, I have no issues at all except the rear diff.

Thank You
Either your gears are too tight or too loose. You need to polish it and shim it accordingly. I believe using a bit of AE green slim around the joint and rubber seal helps a great deal. Also the felt they include may not be as good, you can make your own by going to an automotive store and getting their gasket and cut it yourself. Don't tighten the covers too much, just enough.
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:22 AM   #1967
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Default Spec R diffs

Thanks, How do you know that it has been meshed correctly, do you juts keep adding and subtracting shims until it feels the smoothess you can make it?
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:15 AM   #1968
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Thanks, How do you know that it has been meshed correctly, do you juts keep adding and subtracting shims until it feels the smoothess you can make it?
Hard to say, I polished my gears with 600 grit polish paper. I didn't need to add any additional shims. It felt tight at first but after some break in, it was good. No leaks yet. I also added a bit of Tamiya AW where the two covers meet the gasket.

The annoying part must be chopping cross joint to fit. I skipped the knife and sanded it off so I can be more precise.
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:51 PM   #1969
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Hard to say, I polished my gears with 600 grit polish paper. I didn't need to add any additional shims. It felt tight at first but after some break in, it was good. No leaks yet. I also added a bit of Tamiya AW where the two covers meet the gasket.

The annoying part must be chopping cross joint to fit. I skipped the knife and sanded it off so I can be more precise.
Thank you very much for your help, I'm going to try that as soon as my parts come in (tracking say that its at my local post office
)

Do you prefer to use the IFS setup or the shocktower setup?
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Old 09-29-2011, 02:18 AM   #1970
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Ok I received the parts and I built the car from scratch using the new bearings. I realised that the Rear bevel gear shaft is moving up and down when the gear box is removed from the car (but still sealed with the bevel gear and diff inside)

I looked closer to discover that the bearing housings in the gear caseare slightly too big for the bearing, causing the bearing to wobble with the shaft in it. Can this explain the stripping of the rear diff and the spur? I am using the carbon reinforced gear cases btw. Is this kind of wobbling normal, it happens to the front too but the front doesn't strip as easily as all the weight goes to the rear under acceleration.

If this gear case is the problem, what do you think I should do so the bearing is held tighter by the bearing housings?
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Old 09-29-2011, 03:02 AM   #1971
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MYKhz7ZHTU

here is a video of what I think could be the issue, I need this solved quickly so I can take my car overseas
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:28 AM   #1972
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Originally Posted by TB03Racer09 View Post
Thank you very much for your help, I'm going to try that as soon as my parts come in (tracking say that its at my local post office
)

Do you prefer to use the IFS setup or the shocktower setup?
I am using the front shocktower, it's easier to deal with when I need to change setup.
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:31 AM   #1973
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Ok I received the parts and I built the car from scratch using the new bearings. I realised that the Rear bevel gear shaft is moving up and down when the gear box is removed from the car (but still sealed with the bevel gear and diff inside)

I looked closer to discover that the bearing housings in the gear caseare slightly too big for the bearing, causing the bearing to wobble with the shaft in it. Can this explain the stripping of the rear diff and the spur? I am using the carbon reinforced gear cases btw. Is this kind of wobbling normal, it happens to the front too but the front doesn't strip as easily as all the weight goes to the rear under acceleration.

If this gear case is the problem, what do you think I should do so the bearing is held tighter by the bearing housings?
The only thing I can think of is you mixed up the bearings. One of them is 1060 and the other one is 1050.
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:32 AM   #1974
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not easy to mixup, they be different widths

if your bearing is wobbly you can wrap some tape around the outside.
Tamiya yellow masking tape or cut a strip of vinyl sticker.
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Old 10-01-2011, 02:51 AM   #1975
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there is a 1060 bearing? Anyway I fixed the problem by carefully shimming and breaking in the drivetrain properly.

Now that the car has been fixed the car drives so well. I'm going to take this to the track for 17.5t boost, need to get a xerun combo now
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:34 PM   #1976
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sorry for the double posting, but I ordered an TB03 ( because I really wanted a garaiya body) anyway, I noticed that some people were using in their cars "gun metal" TRF FLUORINE COATED dampers/ # 53571.

How do these compare to blue ones that come on the TA06 PRO and TB03 Pro.
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:42 PM   #1977
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Cool which coating is better?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
sorry for the double posting, but I ordered an TB03 ( because I really wanted a garaiya body) anyway, I noticed that some people were using in their cars "gun metal" TRF FLUORINE COATED dampers/ # 53571.

How do these compare to blue ones that come on the TA06 PRO and TB03 Pro.
I believe the blue shocks have the titanium (gold colored coating) coated shafts and the fluorine coated is black. So, the titianium coating is harder and won't wear as fast as the fluorine coated shafts!
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:51 AM   #1978
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Hi guys.

I will be heading to Japan soon and plan on bringing back a drifter.

After researching for the past week or so I have narrowed down my choice to a TB-03D witch I can get for about 12,000 yen.

Is this a sturdy chassis? I don't plan on bashing it but I would like the thing to last.

Im planning on grabbing an alloy shaft and perhaps some stronger front arms

Are there any hop ups that you guys recommend picking up while im at it?
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:21 PM   #1979
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Default Tamiya TB-03D roller for sale

Thought I'd drop this in here. TB-03D for sale - like new. Just trying to get it off my bench. Decided to go in another direction. Bought the kit brand new, assembled it, ran it 3 times in my driveway for testing, and then put it back in the box. Insane price.

FS: Tamiya TB-03D - like new for sale
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:47 AM   #1980
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Hi I am racing in a 540 class. I am going to try 64 pitch gearing. Anyone know a good starting point on a small technical track? Thanks
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