According to the manual, adding spacers to the end that attaches to the shock end is the equivalent to moving the top shock mount outwards. ie no spacers would be the same as the most inner shock mount position.
if you look at a tamiya plastic shock tower, the mounting positions are around 1mm apart so adding a spacer would be like moving 1 hole out on a shock tower.... that was my interpretation
PS. Thanks for listing your setup. mine is pretty much the same except for I'm srung and oil'd higher since I run on uber gripped, prepped, asphalt.
No I have not. Am I missing something? I'm guessing it effectively changes the dampening angle? I am an idiot on the IFS layout.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus
According to the manual, adding spacers to the end that attaches to the shock end is the equivalent to moving the top shock mount outwards. ie no spacers would be the same as the most inner shock mount position.
if you look at a tamiya plastic shock tower, the mounting positions are around 1mm apart so adding a spacer would be like moving 1 hole out on a shock tower.... that was my interpretation
PS. Thanks for listing your setup. mine is pretty much the same except for I'm srung and oil'd higher since I run on uber gripped, prepped, asphalt.
what markus said!
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what would you change on that setup, for 10.5, as I just seem to be plagued with torque steer
How bad is the torque steer? Using a 10.5 it will be noticeable but it shouldn't be that bad (this of course I am just assuming since I haven't played with a 10.5 in the car yet). I assume you checked for tweak and also the chassis is balanced? Depending on battery choice and electronic choice you may need over 3-4 oz of weights on the left side. Just some thoughts.
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yes, chassis is balanced left to right, especialy as I am using LiPo.
Torque Steer makes it really hard to drive it hard out of left turns.
One method to lessen the effects of torque steer is to run .5mm-1mm more droop on the left side. I've tried the TB-03 only with 17.5 and 13.5 but in theory increasing droop more on the left side should lessen the effects of torque steer. It's worth a try.
I went back to the track and have made some changes. Front and rear ride height to 4.5mm and droop at 1mm front and rear. I tried running C/C up front but found it to understeer a bit more. C/C might work better on asphalt than carpet.
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It's probably a bit soon for this, but has anyone heard anything about a TB03R yet? I was so impressed with my TA05IFS-R and what all was in the kit for $250 and it would be so nice to have all that on a TB03. Basically it would be what swimbikerun built but for half the $.
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It's probably a bit soon for this, but has anyone heard anything about a TB03R yet? I was so impressed with my TA05IFS-R and what all was in the kit for $250 and it would be so nice to have all that on a TB03. Basically it would be what swimbikerun built but for half the $.
I kept the same setup today except I changed the rear shock position to the outmost on the tower, added 1mm spacer to the rocker arm, and blue sway bars in front and yellow in rear, and changed FDR to 3.58 (78/53) for 17.5. I liked it alot. Will post setup sheet later. BTW, as for the same advice for the 416, use 3x12 or 3x14 countersunk screws for the suspension mounts that are flipped over to clear the ridges in the chassis.
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My general impressions of the car is that it is fast and super quiet. A great car for 17.5 since you get the drive train efficiency of a shafty without noticable torque steer. Unfortunately, you can't be lazy driving it as it is not as forgiving. Great car if you're smooth, not so much when you mash the throttle. The biggest issue with the car is that until an R version comes out it's not that great of a deal especially when you can pick up a TA05 IFS-R for around $250. I ended up spending way more that I should of (could have gotten a Evo 5 MS...would have been cheaper) but what is the price to race a car that others do not? Would be great for TCS but I would wait until the R version comes out if you plan on doing club racing in 17.5.
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Has anyone tried the Tech Racing or 3Racing graphite conversion kits yet? Thinking about going this path after the TCS race. I know Tamiya is releasing the carbon reinforced chassis soon but it will still be a tub design.
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Well, had the first run today, and have to say, pretty impressed with the car. I know there are few things that are on it that are not fully up to spec, mainly as the front pinion gear is chewed, the rear diff is slipping due to knackered plastic halves (had to glue the rings in place), and still running dogbones on the rear (i was too lazy to muck about stripping some spare 416 axles I have) but thats what you get for buying second hand... a steal at £80 though (with spool and two shells included)!
Still, it held it's own, even managed to win one leg of the finals with it, against some very good racers with very good cars....! Did try a few things out, and used base carpet setup to from earlier. Did end up changing it around a bit, but that was more due the generally low grip nature of hte local outdoor track. Countering that, I did up the springs to white/blue, and the car carried the corner speed much better... something to try
Overall, more to come from the car (and me driving a shaftie again)... just order the alloy rear diff halves, and some new parts to get it as I want.. I can a see a few more options next month as well (alloy drive train parts etc).
Was only running 17.5, but did notice it was had very quick rotation on power... especially if you hook it up right from mid-corner, it punches out like nothing else... need to be careful it's not too much though, as it will snap round.
So far, very happy with my choice of club car... the 416 can now rest easy until the next carpet season
Regards
Ed
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and my TB02 will probably be pretty used up by then...
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