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Old 03-13-2010, 10:42 PM   #1666
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Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
As Hebiki said, the setups for 416 transfer over well as starting points for the car. I would use c blocks up front or maybe even d's for the stability at those speeds. Make sure you have all upgraded drivetrain and the aluminum diff is a must. White front, blue rear springs would be a good starting point. Make sure you watch the bottom of the chassis for scraping. Going that fast its easy to do and will make the car slide all over the place in sweepers. If you need more detail let me know.

Your going to have to get the car balanced weight wise very well. Suspension settings need to be accurate left to right. Your going to have torque steer, but its not all that bad as long as the car is set up right.

You can run 64 pitch if you prefer, but I recommend that you just use 48 pitch for the strength for mod. Belt drive's absorb a lot of the backlash from braking, and accelerating and fair better with 64 pitch. Shaft drives have no give....your pinion and spur teeth being the smallest contact points in the drivetrain will give first. I've run 4 turn brushless with no issues in reliability with my TB03.
u mean use 1C suspension block of FR or FF?
Thanx for the guide..
now need to get those alumninium diff

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Originally Posted by Hebiki View Post
dont forget anti-wear grease on the uni pins if you're using a spool.
Thanx for the tips man...
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Old 03-15-2010, 04:34 AM   #1667
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Max, mi dispiace tanto.

A guy I race with is ordering this kit to try out. I'm building it for him so I will let you know how it works out when he gets the chassis.
Ciao Timmie,
i'm also waiting it, i hope to recieve the new chassis befor the 27 th march, as that week end will begin the italian championship .
Yestarday i was on the track where i'll race on the 27th, carpet surce, and due to the high traction and high motor torque i broke the front left swing shaft , however the car was a rocket with a very good set up.

Ciao
Max
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:27 PM   #1668
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Originally Posted by VR6T View Post
u mean use 1C suspension block of FR or FF?
Thanx for the guide..
now need to get those alumninium diff


Thanx for the tips man...
Yes, 1C in the FF block position, and 1C on the FR block position. This wider setting at the front will help make the car more stable at high speeds.

When you get the rear aluminum diff, make sure the diff rings are perfectly flat. Sand them to make sure. Try to use ceramic diff balls as well, along with the thrust bearing. On the diff bolt, put a dab of blue loctite on the threads to help retain your diff settings better. I know the factory diff nut is a nylon locking style, but it doesn't matter...use loctite anyways.

Good luck
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:34 PM   #1669
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Originally Posted by mtaddei View Post
Ciao Timmie,
i'm also waiting it, i hope to recieve the new chassis befor the 27 th march, as that week end will begin the italian championship .
Yestarday i was on the track where i'll race on the 27th, carpet surce, and due to the high traction and high motor torque i broke the front left swing shaft , however the car was a rocket with a very good set up.

Ciao
Max
Ciao Max,

Wow good luck! When you get the carbon chassis try and get some practice with it before your race. I'm not too sure on how stiff this chassis will be. I know the graphite tub on the TB03 works really good on high carpet traction because it is very stiff. Do you know what the thickness of the aftermarket chassis is?

Broke the swing shaft? Steel swing shaft?
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:20 PM   #1670
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Maybe you guys can help? I have a TB04 and I'm wondering how to get 26mm foams to fit. They seem to rub and I don't want to cut them down unless I have to. Suggestions?
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:12 PM   #1671
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It's great to see this thread's "old timers" are back and once again helping out newbies like myself!

It's been a couple of months I think since i last posted and MAYBE I'm finally now in a position to better understand the answers to the questions I'm gonna post:

(i) for motors up to 11.5T, would it be better to use a spool upfront or a 1-way? I'm currently using a spool, but don't own a front 1-way yet. Some fellow at the track where I run told me that I lose too much speed in the corners. Would switching to a 1-way help?

(ii) what's the "proper" technique for cornering (say, a 180 degree turn/hairpin) using a spool? Brake late? Or lift-off early? Free roll through the corner, or be mildly on-throttle?

(iii) How different will the driving technique be when using a 1-way?

Cheers!
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:53 AM   #1672
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Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
Ciao Max,

Wow good luck! When you get the carbon chassis try and get some practice with it before your race. I'm not too sure on how stiff this chassis will be. I know the graphite tub on the TB03 works really good on high carpet traction because it is very stiff. Do you know what the thickness of the aftermarket chassis is?

Broke the swing shaft? Steel swing shaft?
Ciao Timmie, i presume that the carbon chassis is 2.5 mm thick with topdeck, re swing shaft are the alluminium one 44 mm

Ciao
Max
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:48 AM   #1673
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Hi ,
Could this chassis be used for rally..? or does anybody use the TB03 chassis lifted...?

I am thinking to buy this TB03 or DF03ra chassis ,
Yes , I know DF03ra is the intended model for rally but I like more the design of this TB(central motor position, steering linkage , closed gears , adjustability...)

Ok , the TB03 is a touring car but I already have seen people running TT01s offroad and they respond very well...
Ok I would use it as non seriusly offroad , only compacted surfaces as land or rougth tarmac...
Is a mad idea..?

How much ground clareance can be achieved with the TB03 chassis..?
A pic with the arms top down would be nice....

Thanks.

Last edited by danieluki; 03-16-2010 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:23 PM   #1674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phisher View Post
Maybe you guys can help? I have a TB04 and I'm wondering how to get 26mm foams to fit. They seem to rub and I don't want to cut them down unless I have to. Suggestions?
TB04? What's that Do you mean, a TB Evolution 4? In any case, to run 26mm foams you will probably need to get the thicker wheel hexes to space the rims away. Tamiya also makes wheel spacers in different thickness that may give you the desired clearance. You shouldn't really have a issue with the rear of the car, but the in the front, the rim will probably hit the front shock when you turn unless you space the front's out some.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tns View Post
It's great to see this thread's "old timers" are back and once again helping out newbies like myself!

It's been a couple of months I think since i last posted and MAYBE I'm finally now in a position to better understand the answers to the questions I'm gonna post:

(i) for motors up to 11.5T, would it be better to use a spool upfront or a 1-way? I'm currently using a spool, but don't own a front 1-way yet. Some fellow at the track where I run told me that I lose too much speed in the corners. Would switching to a 1-way help?

(ii) what's the "proper" technique for cornering (say, a 180 degree turn/hairpin) using a spool? Brake late? Or lift-off early? Free roll through the corner, or be mildly on-throttle?

(iii) How different will the driving technique be when using a 1-way?

Cheers!
Good to see your still at it tns

I would suggest that you use a spool unless, your track has a very high amount of traction....or if its a very smooth, high speed, flowing layout. To use a spool means to change your driving style some. With a spool you want to drive more aggressively. For a 180 turn, you would want to drive to the turn at full throttle, late brake, aim for the apex and as soon as the car is pointed where you want to go full throttle again. This is where you can make time up against a one way equipped car. Another benefit to the spool is in traffic driving. You can stab the brakes on the car if needed without worry of the rear of the car coming around on you. As far as throttle control with a spool it really depends on how your setup reacts for a particular turn and your driving style. If you are having to use your brakes or slow down too much for a section of the track, you need to work on your setup. Start by removing some rear traction from the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtaddei View Post
Ciao Timmie, i presume that the carbon chassis is 2.5 mm thick with topdeck, re swing shaft are the alluminium one 44 mm

Ciao
Max
Ciao Max,

Well let me know when you get yours and how it does. Aluminum swing shafts....and your using a spool? Europeans always run aluminum front axles Save the headaches, put steel 44mm axles up there and be done. Especially since your running 10.5 correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by danieluki View Post
Hi ,
Could this chassis be used for rally..? or does anybody use the TB03 chassis lifted...?

I am thinking to buy this TB03 or DF03ra chassis ,
Yes , I know DF03ra is the intended model for rally but I like more the design of this TB(central motor position, steering linkage , closed gears , adjustability...)

Ok , the TB03 is a touring car but I already have seen people running TT01s offroad and they respond very well...
Ok I would use it as non seriusly offroad , only compacted surfaces as land or rougth tarmac...
Is a mad idea..?

How much ground clareance can be achieved with the TB03 chassis..?
A pic with the arms top down would be nice....

Thanks.
Hi,

And yes a TB03 can be made into a offroad car....I did it with one out of spare parts I had. I will have to try and find pictures sometime to show you. I used the long arm suspension from a evo4, removed some of the material on the tub chassis where the droop screws touch to gain some down travel of the arms. Installed wider suspension blocks, I think they were 1D/1D front blocks to move the hinge pins to the outer edge of the chassis, again for more down travel. Then on the front pushrods I used long turn buckles for more travel. I believe I had about 12mm of ground clearance. Worked pretty good. Wasn't a really good jumper though But was fun to drive around.
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:25 PM   #1675
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Hi timmie

Thanks for the driving tips. Looks like I was going about it all wrong - I was driving with a more conservative style that didn;t make best use of the spool. The track I run on is unprepared asphalt, so I'd say the grip level is medium-ish rather than high. So the spool should be the way to go then when using the 11.5T. I'm off to the RC haven that is Japan tomorrow for a vacation (yes, will most definitely be shopping for RC stuff in Tokyo and will in fact be picking up an off-roader this time ) Will work on the setup of the TB when I get back.

Cheers!
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Old 03-17-2010, 01:56 AM   #1676
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Ciao Timmie,

you are right, i'm running the spool with alluminium swing shaft.
Could you pls advise me the code of the 44 mm steel shaft?? that i'll order next time to my german supplier.

Tnks very much
Max.

P.S. Do you need my help for the translation of yr bike instruction?
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Old 03-17-2010, 02:20 AM   #1677
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Timmie :

The bigest 48 pitch spur i can fit is a 71tooth, is there a way to fit bigger?

whats the highest FDR you can achieve? for mod type motors.


i think i was only able to get about 7.xx approx fdr by memorie , but i thought id see what you guys can get.
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Old 03-18-2010, 09:42 AM   #1678
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Ciao Timmie,

my 3racing chassis just arrived, so what i'm going to tell you is only concerning my first impression: chassis thickness 2 mm well cutted, the kit includes a new stering links on ball bearings that requires a low profile servo that will fit in transverse position like on the team magic e4 (the ones that i hold, i shifted it to my f1 ). it is quite flexible i don't know when i'll mount the dif blocks if the flexibility will remain or not.
Battery mount, on the chassis are fitted same plastic profile in order to block the battery, the ones at the top and at the bottom are well shaped, the side ones are too fat, this evening i'll grinder it a little bit in order to fit my lipos.

At the time being this is all what i can tell you.

Ciao
Max
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Old 03-18-2010, 09:45 AM   #1679
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I need some help once again. I changed out my Servo and reciever. After plugging everything in I cant get the sterring to go the right way. Its steering backwards. Left goes right and Right goes left. I tried switching the wires and that didnt work. I also looked at reversing the servo but that wont do it either. I even checked to see if it might be upside down but it wouldnt fit if that was the case because the servo horn would be in the wrong place. I cant figure this one out. I checked my radio on my other vehicles and they work fine. Any Ideas on what could be wrong or what I am doing wrong??

FYI I am using a Futaba s9551 servo and a spektrum sr300 receiver.
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:01 AM   #1680
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I need some help once again. I changed out my Servo and reciever. After plugging everything in I cant get the sterring to go the right way. Its steering backwards. Left goes right and Right goes left. I tried switching the wires and that didnt work. I also looked at reversing the servo but that wont do it either. I even checked to see if it might be upside down but it wouldnt fit if that was the case because the servo horn would be in the wrong place. I cant figure this one out. I checked my radio on my other vehicles and they work fine. Any Ideas on what could be wrong or what I am doing wrong??

FYI I am using a Futaba s9551 servo and a spektrum sr300 receiver.
Ciao Mike,
i have the same servo and receiver on my tb03, and i reversed the signal on the transmitter, my is a JR - R1 and it was working well, on the chassis the servo position is obligated the servo horn must fitted facing outward.

Ciao
Max
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