Speedo

uh, a 16*1 stock motor?

Yeah, well it's nice to have the information to show off. When people who don't run rc ask about the power, you can casually state the RPM But it means almost squat in TC's, that's all.

imataquito

hehe speedo ... rpm might mean squat to u ... but it actually depends on how u look at it .... ... depends on how u gear ur car ...
if ur motor has tons of torque then gear it to utilize the torque ...
or if it has rpm then utilize the rpm ....
not sure tho cause i never actually tried 2 of these kind on a head to head comparision ....

so far most of my motors are HI-Torque
only the 10x3 is hi rpm ... others ... Hi torque
the 16x1 has torque i never imagined it did have ...
lol
with a 7.9 gearing it runs hot ,. with a 5.5 gearing it runs cooler and faster ...... wierd
but hey ... as long as it works and its fast

Alvin

I guess it is overrevving on the straight? i.e. it hits max RPM too early? Maybe you can try gearing it to hit full speed 1/2 to 3/4 of the longest straight....

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

want to straightent things out....the more wires used to wind a motor creates more rpm...with only a single strand creates more torque....am i right?
i know know that if more wires are used....it doesnt wear out the comm that fast!

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

A single wire means you have a motor with torque and a motor with more strands of wire will increase resistance while sacrificing torque.

You increase RPM with fewer winds around an armature stack.

http://www.team-orion.ch/motor-faq/part2.asp

Alvin

Winds or Turns?
This URL's good about these: http://www.teamassociated.com/shusti...dy/rdy_art.htm

imataquito

lol nice FAq u guys posted .... i read all of em aready some time back
and i forgot to mention my Kawada 16 turn is big comm+ its x1 winds
thanks for the reedy FAQ lol...

btw where can i get brushes for the big comm? they r oversized ones like the ACTOPOWER TRF
by tamiya about 2-3 years back cant seemed to find those ...

overrevving ... i think yes .... but it has no reason to slow down at full trotle and fun faster at 1/4 trottle LOL

out of turns ... if my finger shivers a bit ... my car will spin ...even with good tires and.....im at full trottle (1/4)...most of the time
very twichy car and has tons of stearing cause if i get to full trottle at the apex i will spin out ....thats with 7.9 gearing

now .... with 5.5 can play normally .... slow down and right b4 the apex
blast out of it... real fast.. without loosing rear traction ... (maybe a bit to actually take a tighter turn -on-power overstear)

hehe HI Torque RULES

btw .... if i rev it in my hand... it twists my hand more then a mod motor ---hi torque i guess ?? ?

alvin i m sure in s'pore this kawada big comm stockers are quite popular too

but for the 7.9 gearing slowdown at full trottle and speed up at 1/4 ... anyone knows why? still a mystery and its WIERD real wierd

Corse-R

RCCadet:

Is not that simple as you posted.

Maybe the best to talk about this is Jim Greenemeyer, but, in spite that don't appear by here I'll try to explaing a little. I've enjoyed reading their posts and asking a lot to it and i use several motors winded by itself. (In fact, I'm awaiting 4 motors some day of this, only to training for the season). In fact, if you want to reach it, you can do simply going to the teamrcv.com site and reading a thread called (Ask Big Jim about Motors).

Not ever a single wind is the most powerful motor, in fact, when you get a motor with a high wire (let's say a 17.5 or 18 AWG) you are plenty of wire, but all is a fact of Circular Mils (CM).

Let's see this table:

AWG Circular Mils
#16 2681
#17 2062
#18 1624
#19 1289
#20 1024
#21 812
#22 640
#23 511
#24 404
#25 320

As you see a #17 or #16 wire is fairly big to wind a single, but, with those wire, you need to battle a lot to pack all those wire onto the stack and could be a arm with big wires, but be too innefficient because the wire isn't tightly coupled to the stack and you lose some magnetic strength due to the air gaps.

I didn't need to tell that some winds with this kind of wire are impracticable.

The goal is to get as much CM as you can, ever if it's possible to pack efficiently on the stack.

A big wire, give you medium and high-end punch, but sometimes is good losing some punch at high to gain some at low, this is where the 'little wires' enters in the game.

If you have read about this, some motors are of the type HVW (High Variance Winds) this is simply that a double is done with wires that have a high variance on their diameter. Let's see some examples, some good known motors of this are Reedy Ti's who have two wires (one with #18.5 or #19 and another #24 if my memory doesn't fails me).

Playing with the CM numbers, you can construct almost infinite motors, some better than others, but infinite.

Another key in the 'black magic' of the winds are the type of arm stack. There are two types mainly, the torque and the rpm blanks. Now you have three parameters to play on your motors, the winds, the wires, and the arm stack.

By my own experimentation says me that the best motors I've tested 'custom winded' are in the range of 1690 - 1900 CM. Passing from this 'upper limit' the arms are highly stuffed and the arm weights a lot and the acceleration is harm a little (specially with the thick blanks).

If someone wants to know more about this, I reccomend to read the thread named at the first lines of this message and don't hesitate of asking to Jim is a very good person and they answer at all questions formulated to it. I'm reading from some time this thread and I've discovered little things that made a lot of success tunning my motors and choosing them.

Maybe I'll start soon to see some of yours in the teamrcv site.

Alvin

I could be mistaken, but if I remember properly you can get them from Atlas Models. Why can't you get 'em from a LHS?

Maybe your motor, spends too much time at high revs, generates alot of heat - slows down due to excess heat

Anyway I geared my 14x2 for 8:1 FDR last night, could not hit top speed on the straight before I had to brake for a hairpin. Drat I need a slower motor.... and this is with low silver brushes!

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

Corse-R: I'm so sorry for not explaining in greater detail. My bad. But my reply was intended to be simple for those that care not to worry about all the specifics. You and I both know what the specifics are and the general audience may not care about the advance knowledge. Those that want to be enlighted on the subject will know where to go.

My response was targeted towards an earlier post and did not warrant a bible response, especially a response borrowed from another source. A simple link to Big Jim would have sufficed.

I would take caution in trying to hand wind your own motors. It is best left to the Pros. It is a costly and time consuming venture but if it is done right the reward and self-gratification is all yours.

http://rcvehicles.about.com/library/...lbb_misc01.htm

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

hey...you guys heard of a motor with 54 turns? you think it has enough torque for a 1:1 ratio??
hehehhe

dtm

I use a 55T motor to drive my comm lathe!!!

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

oops..yayaya...55t motor...

dtm...you try to put that on your car??

Yokomo Fan

Try using a mabuchi motor, the ones that come witht tamiya kits.......so slow.

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

hahahaha...tell me about it!

they dont have any torque too!