I suspect that there's a kink in the drivetrain.
Here's my suggestion;
1. Remove the motor from the drivetrain.
2. Remove all wheels.
3. Turn the spur with your fingers very lightly. As you turn, feel for resistance as you go around.
4. Do you hear any ticking sound?
5. Do you feel the drivetrain/spur sticks at certain areas and frees itself again?
6. If you answer yes to any of the above, then, it means that the spur adapter versus the the alignment of the rest of the drivetrain is off.
7. Loosen the 2 screws on the motor mount.
8. Loosen the 4 screws that secures the alloy plate that sits over the spur gear.
9. Spin the spur to free the area and hoping it will get into alignment.
10. Carefully screw down the 4 screws of the alloy plate.(taking care not to tweak the area)
11. After tightening, flip around and tighten up the motor mount. This should straighten it up.
12. Turn the spur again. It should have removed the ticking sound or kink.
I think try that first. If it does not solve the issue, then maybe a kink in the UJs, seizure of a bearing....? Good luck!
Originally Posted by YDBD
Ok, just picked up my Evo 5 MS from the LHS here on Okinawa. (gotta REALLY good deal)
I'll be running in the 23T class here, but have some wobble issues...
The assembly went as norm for a Tamiya, a little from this bag, a little from that bag...when will they put the parts in the same bag for the same assembly???
On to the problem...
When going SLOW at about 6 feet the chassis rear end kicks over like the toe or tracking is off and does about every few feet after that. It's got a definite wobble somewheres.
What I've tried:
- Added more front toe
- Changed tires
- Rechecked all arms with digital calipers to specs
- Pushed the chassis with no pinion
- Took it back to the LHS, both guys tried, said maybe more front toe but that's all.
- Rechecked all spacers on hinge pins.
What may be wrong:
The rear hinge pin mount bound a bit on the left side, it looks like the mount may be over to the right about .25mm but I can't find a good way to get a calliper on it and why would it be off?
The ball diff needs to be broken in?
Next step is to actually spend the money for some set up wheels and board to check everything....$$