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Old 11-02-2002, 09:52 PM   #1396
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I dislike the regular KO wheel a lot. The foam feels way too mushy for me. The "Mini" one has stiffer, wider foam that doesn't shift like the KO. I used to run it until I chunked it too bad, and now I'm back to my old standby: KO EX-5 wheel! Super wide, firm foam without being too "tall" in diameter. OZ Rally style!
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Old 11-03-2002, 06:33 AM   #1397
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im having a problem with the plastic ball ends coming loose, especially in the steering linkage. do you guys know if RPM makes a set for tamiya? I had a TC3 before and i bought a set of RPM ball ends which are a direct fit for that car. i think the ones used for the 414m is a different size. also, are there other brands available, other than RPM, for heavy duty ball ends? thanks for any info
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Old 11-03-2002, 05:23 PM   #1398
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Default 414 M2 for sale

Check out the for sale thread,
my 2nd 414M2 is for sale

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Old 11-03-2002, 07:49 PM   #1399
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Quote:
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
yah! that would be nice....by the way Pyramid, remember me the guy from SG that bought your MOMO steering wheels
Hi, how are you?

rccarracer: yes, I have to be there, It was Reedy Indonesia International Race orqanized by TQ Racing. About the steering, I actually like the original style but I have to agree with Ruf on the foam.

Imataquito: Actually I'm making some for sale at only USD14/set (4/4.5/5/6mm) and USD8 for servo post by the request of local 414M fellow owner. Just to let you know, I do have a little shop and permanent parking lot based circuit to back up my hobby and promote them locally.

Another brand new permanent circuit is on the making with Keywest (ISTC 2002) layout, contributed by racers and I to replace the parking lot based.

Marvi: Try kyosho.. nicely tight.
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Old 11-03-2002, 09:46 PM   #1400
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The Teacher
The lifting of the inside rear tire is created from the car leaning too hard into the corner and compressing the front outer shock beyond the point where the rear inside shock can keep the tire in contact with the track.

I've never run the car on carpet, but this is what I would do to fix it on asphalt.

I look at it as a combination of 2 things: Too much grip in the front and too soft. Softer also means more grip, more grip means more body roll as well as softer means more body roll too. They're all part of a viscious cycle.

I would try either one of these very many options.

1. Stiffer front spring (or front swaybar); will take body roll and front grip away. Taking away front grip though, takes away turn in, but it makes it easier to drive on high speed parts and chicanes. (The front swaybar will also give more mid to exit corner steering, great for hairpins) Evaluate the layout you run on and see if this is the best alternative.

2. Droop; Either add rear droop (to keep that tire in contact with the track) or take away front. I think of droop as a great fix, but don't go over board with it 'cause it can really jack up your handling. Basics of droop: MORE (longer shock) gives more traction due to increased body roll, but makes it less responsive side to side and less stable (twitchier). (ex: more in front-more steering, more in rear- more rear grip)

3. Camber links: Raise the inner front link a mm or two, in increments. This raises the roll center slightly, also taking away front grip and allowing the front to "slide" a bit. It won't roll as much cause the roll center is higher.

4.Increasing Kick up (caster) Okay, i'm gonna get tore up on this one. This car is strange, bcz a lot of people run anti-dive in the front (arms kicked down- aka negative kick up) Anti dive makes the car dive less into a corner, but more caster does the same thing. In this case increasing kick up or anti dive should give you the same effect. But they don't. No matter how much anti dive you have, the less caster you have , the more front grip, turn in and body roll you will have going into a mid to slow speed corner. The antidive just keeps the car stable and flat (I think), but less caster still makes it more responsive at slow to mid speeds. Increase the kickup and the car will probably dump the front end but act more civilized and less agressive at these, slow to mid speed corners due to decreased grip and make it a lot more "plush" feeling . I still get confused thinking about it about it, but to resume it: a car that has less caster dives in harder.
They say carpet likes a low amount of caster. Ideal setup for a touring car in general should be betweed 4 and 7-8 deg.

5.Raise your front roll center by raising the suspension blocks. Higher roll center=harder to roll= ability to run softer spring or same spring w/ "stiffer" feel, side to side.

Well I guess I just wrote a book. These are my suggestions. This is from the knowlwedge I've collected and it is what I would try to do, I hope it helps you solve your problem.
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Old 11-04-2002, 01:52 AM   #1401
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Hi Everyone!

I am new to the site as well as new having a TRF 414M.
I tried it over the weekend it is awesome.
Does anybody know a good set-up for carpet and may be an idea where to get the titanium screws that is included in the WCR kit?

Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2002, 06:20 AM   #1402
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Marvi: Try kyosho.. nicely tight.
thanks luckily, i found some kyosho ball ends in my toolbox this looks to be more secure because i can put a washer on one end to prevent it from popping out.
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Old 11-04-2002, 07:41 AM   #1403
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Vic, you have PM
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Old 11-04-2002, 08:00 AM   #1404
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You mean timewise?
Yes
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Old 11-04-2002, 08:06 AM   #1405
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I mean Private Message.
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Old 11-04-2002, 12:42 PM   #1406
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Default roll center

Raising the inner camber link pivot on a touring car will lower the roll center and increase roll.
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Old 11-04-2002, 01:47 PM   #1407
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True, the initial "static" roll center may be lower, but it has the greater affect of reducing roll center migration so that under load, the roll center tends to move less and stay higher. Could this be interpreted as more of a rising rate geometry?
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Old 11-04-2002, 04:39 PM   #1408
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Although the roll center migrates quite a bit latterally toward the ouside of the corner with roll, a scale drawing of my XXXS, at 3.5 degrees of roll showed almost no vertical migration. Thats quite a bit more roll than the 414 will experience with very high roll centers. A similar drawing in Carrol Smiths book tune to win shows almost no vertical migration. Raising the inner camber link pivot should have a similar effect as lowering the outer camber link pivot. I don't have the ability to adjust the inner camber link up or down on my car, but have moved the outer camber link down. This lowers the roll center and increases cornering traction on the front end of the car.

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Old 11-04-2002, 04:48 PM   #1409
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Hmmmm. I'll have to look at the car when I get to the shop. You also have to take into account the decreased camber gain which would tend to take away sidebite, counteracting any traction gained by the lower roll center.
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Old 11-04-2002, 04:54 PM   #1410
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I think the effects of camber are fairly minor on these cars compared to effects of moving the roll center. Carrol Smith aggrees for the big cars as well.
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