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Old 11-06-2001, 03:25 AM   #121
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I don't seem to have problem with the Sanyo 3000 in my car, maybe becos I filed the edge of all the batt slots. I can't wait to test run the car.
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Old 11-06-2001, 03:42 AM   #122
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Thanks for all quick responds. I gues the only way to be sure is just to measure the width of the slots.

Lets see, there are 3 slots (holes) on each side and two seperators. Hope you know what I mean here.

The holes width are in between 12.12-12.15mm and seperators are in between 10.88-10.90mm (the small different is due to CA glue around corners I guess). Those readings are from Digital Caliper.

Last favor guys, could you comform yours?
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry guys, disregards about saddle pack issues.

I mistakenlly reffering my SMH with Sanyo. SMH turn out to be smaller in diameter as I measured.

Well, I have the battery couple weeks ago but have not use it till now. I remembered putting it loose in my TRF and see the different. Then bring up the subject and mistakenlly reffering to Sanyo 3000s.

Keep the board alive

Best Regards

Last edited by Pyramid; 11-06-2001 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 11-12-2001, 06:12 AM   #123
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I was talking to a friend of mine at the track this past weekend about chassis design. I mentioned to him that I am sick of saddle packs and would like to see a chassis with all the batteries down one side. He mentioned that he saw a picture in a Japanese magazine with this style of chassis. Has anybody else seen or heard of this?
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Old 11-12-2001, 06:23 AM   #124
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YM34 Type T? These guys supposedly design the 414M for Tamiya.

http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ea...4t/enewcar.htm

This is my number 2 favourite car, with the TRF414M coming in as tops
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Old 11-12-2001, 11:05 AM   #125
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Kraig......Batteries down one side is not the be all and end all to a working chassis. Tamiya has already tried such a chassis at the past world championchips. Dave Jun managed to win the B main with that car. Whats that you say? You never heard of it. You probably wont. My understanding was that particular design was very track specific and did not yeild overall benefits on others. And so you have the 414m.

Fear not though. Tamiya hasnt given up on new/old ideas as yet. Reference the EVO-II. The TRF team and designers seem to have a nack of improving and evolving designs to their ultimate ends. Stay tuned.

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Old 11-12-2001, 11:21 AM   #126
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I am not saying that it is going to end all of the problems with the world, it is just that it is something that has eaten away at me over a period of time. Otherwise, I like my car and I haven't been sorry for purchasing it. Just wondering if anybody else had heard or saw anything.
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Old 11-12-2001, 11:44 AM   #127
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Kraig....I do know what you mean. At first glance a person could dismiss the M as "just another double deck graphite, saddle pack sedan". Lets face it, this layout has been around perhaps 1 day short of forever. But the car works so so well. And that is what consoles me when I think about its layout. Sure there are other layouts/designs, but will they work better than this car works right now? Hmmm....... nah. Wheres my blue Tamiya battery tape?

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Old 11-12-2001, 11:02 PM   #128
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Default Clicking in the rear of 414M

My 414M recently picked up an odd clicking in the rear of the car, I thought it might be dirty diffs but I cleaned them and also replaced the old spur and pinions. All other pulleys are fine, so the only thing I can think of is the motor, but I only recently bought it and has only been used a few times. Any ideas?
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Old 11-13-2001, 06:38 AM   #129
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I would remove the motor or pinion to see if it is the motor. Leave the motor in the car and hook up a battery and apply the throttle. If it is the motor it sounds like the brushes are not aligned or are not fully broken in. Did you just cut the com or put new brushes in? How about oiling the bushings (assuming it is a stock motor)?

Otherwise, find some place to roll the car on the ground. Check all the bearings in the car, maybe you had one go bad. Double check for small peebles in the diff gear or maybe there is a problem with the belt itself.
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Old 11-13-2001, 08:14 AM   #130
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Where can I pick up a 414m in the US, I want a new in box kit to build myself, and it must be in the UNITED STATES.....
Also how much should I expect to pay for one?????
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Old 11-13-2001, 08:22 AM   #131
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You will have to call Tamiya USA to see if they have any left. I think the going price is around 309 if I remember correctly.
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Old 11-13-2001, 11:56 PM   #132
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Rechecked everything and found nothing, so I went to my LHS, and we found one of the bearings in my mod motor was a lemon, so changed that and now runs fine.
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Old 11-14-2001, 09:40 AM   #133
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What pinion/spurs combinations are you guys using for the "M" for 10T mod, P2K, and MVP????
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Old 11-14-2001, 10:39 AM   #134
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one of the guy that i race with was trying to order TRF414M but right now Tamiya is all out of stock.

I got one but have never raced with it yet. i am still perfecting my driving skill with my TB evo.
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Old 11-14-2001, 01:07 PM   #135
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INITIAL D- for stock or mod it depends on the track and how small or big it is. I usually use a 120 spur and pinions from 36 to 40 (P2K). With the ESP (MVP can; fast stocker for $21!!!) I go one to two teeth lower on the pinion. I actually use a rollout formula to do gearing.

Rollout the formula is: tire size(mm) X 3.14 /divided by over all gear ratio which the manual lists. You'd be surprised how tire size affects gear ratio and therefore speed on the track

If you're pinion/spur combo is not listed (or you lost your manual) overall gear ratio is spur /divided by pinion multiplied by 2.13 (2.13 is the "M's" chassis ratio).

With a P2K I rollout between 26 and 31mm. The latter for a big 150ft straight. The first for a tight indoor track for punch out of the turns.

Mod ask Mr. "Ruf". He runs mod more than me. Gear way lower I'll say that.
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Last edited by Isaac; 11-14-2001 at 01:10 PM.
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