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Old 08-28-2002, 09:51 PM   #1096
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In the USA it's allow for GT1 (mod) class. But for Asian countries, I heard otherwise (it's not). So I don't know. Best to check with Tamiya in Asia for the rules over there. Just assuming this because I see you are in the Philippines.....

Last edited by JimmyMac; 08-28-2002 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 09-02-2002, 06:45 PM   #1097
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i just stripped a bulkhead screw, the countersunk one on the bottom. how do i remove it without scratching the chassis? i dont know why it suddenly wouldnt come off. im pretty sure i didnt overtighten it. it feels "bonded" to the bulkhead. is this a problem with different metals - steel screw and aluminum bulkhead?
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Old 09-02-2002, 07:31 PM   #1098
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Next time replace all the screws with something else... the Tamiya screws suck.

You can find some at the local screw shop.
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Old 09-02-2002, 08:28 PM   #1099
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so should i replace them with philips head or allen hex head? which is more prone to stripping? because ive stripped both types, but not a countersunk one. with the normal button head screws, it's easier to get out. but im worried that ill scratch the chassis to get out the countersunk screw. any ideas on how to remove that stuck screw?
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Old 09-02-2002, 10:58 PM   #1100
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Marvi:

Really doesnt matter on the head. Allen is a little easier to deal with. Its mainly the material of the screw that is the issue. If you are able to get the other screws out that are in the bulkhead. You can sometimes spin the bulkhead to get the screw out. Other option is to drill through the center of the screw. Start with a small drill bit and go up until the screw crumbles. It works well you just have to be careful. Thats the only problem with the car is those screws.

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Old 09-03-2002, 08:22 AM   #1101
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Yah, I usually try to remove everything around the bulkhead and unscrew the bulkhead from the screw.
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Old 09-03-2002, 09:43 AM   #1102
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thanks for the suggestions ill try spinning the bulkhead on the screw; unfortunately this requires major disassembly. only one screw is stuck so hopefully, it will pivot on that screw enough to get it out. if it doesnt work, ill try drilling it out. im not very good with power tools, though. thanks again
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Old 09-03-2002, 06:14 PM   #1103
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Marvi, have the same problem b4 on the m2, i use dremel with a half inch disc stone cutter, just make a straight cut on the screw just enough not to hurt the chassis, then use a flat screwdriver to unscrew it, then next time dont over tighten the screw. Hope that solves the problem. And USE a Good Allen tool, dont use the angled allen wrench! its tempting to tighten it using the angled one.
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Old 09-03-2002, 06:49 PM   #1104
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thanks
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Old 09-04-2002, 03:48 AM   #1105
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Default Tamiya Tires/inserts/rims on carpet

Hi fellow R/C racers. Im Alvin from Singapore. I need some help from you guys especially those who often use Tamiya tires and inserts. What type of tires and inserts combination do you guys reccomend on carpet? I need some tips, do send me a PM regarding this. thanks in advance fellas =)
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Old 09-06-2002, 05:34 AM   #1106
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Does someone knows where to buy in Japan or in USA a TRF414 World Replica ?

Many thanks.
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Old 09-06-2002, 06:14 AM   #1107
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just wondering if any of you 414 guys DONT use oneways?

How different is the approach to setup for full4wd and oneway?

what would be a good setup for full 4wd?
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Old 09-06-2002, 04:29 PM   #1108
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ralf
Does someone knows where to buy in Japan or in USA a TRF414 World Replica ?

Many thanks.
World replica is only released in Asia. You can get one from Ebay, or www.rcmodel.com.hk. which is a hong kong based hobby shop. The car is not cheap at all. Get it if you have cash to spare. only 1700 kits in the world. get one while you can.
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Old 09-06-2002, 04:34 PM   #1109
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Thanks TRF Powered,

Any other addresses ?
500 USD seem expensive...
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Old 09-06-2002, 07:42 PM   #1110
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I have had to remove my oneways, my local track is tight concrete. I tried the oneways, and just couldn't get it to work.
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