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Old 07-10-2002, 05:42 PM   #931
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My feedback on the 414m2:
Add a tensioner on top like surikarn did in the middle, I didn't bore a hole on top deck, I put my tensioner and screw it in the screw near the center pulley. The slack of the belt hurts the belt coz of the side by side play of the front one way pulley and the center one way, and the bottom tensioner alone doesn't do its job.
I finally got to race it and won 2nd, Like it a little better than my tao4r, using a slower motor than the others i was still able to got the win. Can't explain the manageability of the car, so easy to tune and handle.
My next plan is to buy a new motor, hope u guys can help me, what should i buy, 10tx2 ? what brand? REEEDY?
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Old 07-10-2002, 07:06 PM   #932
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Hi...

I dnt about other areas but it seems the 414Ms are now allowed to compete in the TCS GT1 with the 04s, 03s etc...


http://www.tamiyausa.com/events/tcs/rules.html
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Old 07-10-2002, 09:00 PM   #933
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rough512: Yes , the TCS rules in the USA are not exactly the same as those for Asia. It is always depending on the market situation. The RC market in SE Asia is so small especially compared to USA, that if you allow 414 to run in the same class (GT4WD) as TA04, 03 etc then every body will run 414. This will discourage new comers to compete in the TCS.
We always follow the regulations used for the Asia Cup final and the ultimate finale Tamiya World Cup in Japan (i.e. no 414 in GT4WD class).

As babblefish mentioned, the 414 is a collectable item, so you might want to keep it. But if you can afford to keep and to run just one single car then you have to go for the 414W (World replica) or M, as you can race it in the TCS. The 414Ms is a lot easier to setup than TA04. The cost of fully optioned (graphite lower n upper chasis, F& R graphite shock towers, all those aluminum stuff etc.) can be higher than a 414M kit. No need to get the latest 414W as it is just about the same (see my previous post)
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Old 07-10-2002, 09:04 PM   #934
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what body do you guys run on your 414? after screwing up on a mercedes body, I am looking at the altezza. If I read the discripition right, it has marking for the mounting holes for all of the tamiya cars. I need a tamiya body only right now
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Old 07-10-2002, 09:56 PM   #935
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I'm trying out the new Protoform Stratus this weekend.

The HKS body does have the mounting dimples.
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Old 07-10-2002, 10:11 PM   #936
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I might hold on to the TRF414 for the meantime...

Does anyone know why the TRF guys decided to fix the mounting point of the camber link on the alum. bulkheads? The older 414 has multiple mounting positions owing to the FRP shock towers. In the current 414s, only the height is now variable. Also, they have dropped the tie-rods on the WC edition...

It seem to me like they are simplifying the setup option on the newer cars... that or the have finally nailed the best camber setups for the car...
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Old 07-10-2002, 10:12 PM   #937
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The front mounting dimple of all taimya bodies is not for the M cars.

You will need to find the right place for the front body mount.
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Old 07-10-2002, 10:18 PM   #938
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Quote:
Originally posted by rough512
I might hold on to the TRF414 for the meantime...

Does anyone know why the TRF guys decided to fix the mounting point of the camber link on the alum. bulkheads? The older 414 has multiple mounting positions owing to the FRP shock towers. In the current 414s, only the height is now variable. Also, they have dropped the tie-rods on the WC edition...

It seem to me like they are simplifying the setup option on the newer cars... that or the have finally nailed the best camber setups for the car...

when did they dropped the tie-rods on the WC edition?? All the M cars comes with turnbuckle tie-rods. the original M comes with Aluminum tie-rods. the M2 kits comes with steel ones. and the World Replica edition comes with Titanium ones. So where did you read that they dropped the tie-rodes?
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Old 07-10-2002, 10:22 PM   #939
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there are still multiple mounting holes on the Carbon fiber shock towers on the M2.

and I don't think Tamiya use FRP material on the TRF414 cars. It's all carbon fiber.
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Old 07-10-2002, 10:35 PM   #940
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I've always thought Carbon Fiber is the same as Fiber Reinforced Plate??? Sorry if I'm wrong...


Anyway I was looking at this picture... I can't recall where I downloaded it from...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 414mrcworld4.jpg (20.8 KB, 144 views)
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Old 07-10-2002, 10:48 PM   #941
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Look cloesly on the pic that you just posted. there are still tie-rod on it... and the tie-rod is made of titanium. I think that pic is one of the Tamiya's factory drive's car in Japan. it has the front sway bar modification already. I don't think it's the Thai driver's car (current world champ) since the reciever on it is not from Futaba.

There are no simplification on any suspension parts. The car is highly adjustable.
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Old 07-10-2002, 10:49 PM   #942
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Quote:
Originally posted by rough512
I've always thought Carbon Fiber is the same as Fiber Reinforced Plate??? Sorry if I'm wrong...


Anyway I was looking at this picture... I can't recall where I downloaded it from...
FRP is not carbon fiber. The only 04 series cars that has a FRP chassis is the TA04Pro chassis. All 414 series cars have carbon fiber chassis/tower
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Old 07-11-2002, 01:09 AM   #943
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF-Powered



when did they dropped the tie-rods on the WC edition?? All the M cars comes with turnbuckle tie-rods. the original M comes with Aluminum tie-rods. the M2 kits comes with steel ones. and the World Replica edition comes with Titanium ones. So where did you read that they dropped the tie-rodes?
I think he means the torque rods.
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Old 07-11-2002, 03:53 AM   #944
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike L

Alvin

I have found the oppsit to be true in getting more on power steering. If I limit the front droop, the car dives in the corner really fast, and reactive, but It tends to scrub speed and push comming out of corners. When I add more droop in the front I get more traction in the front end throughout most of the corner at the expense of a less reactive car.
Generally, that is the way I tune my car. Perhaps you could post your setting data? If you are pushing out of the corner have you checked your rear differntial for slippage? Downstop is my usual way to add more exit traction, if there is no suspension travel and my car still pushes, I will then next try to lower the front roll centre.
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Old 07-11-2002, 08:12 AM   #945
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do you guys know of any aftermarket aluminum c-hubs, steering knuckles, and rear hub carriers for the 414? or if tamiya makes those parts in aluminum? thanks for any info

also, what is a good starting point for a 48p spur gear? im currently using 87t, but will a 90T fit? im going to run in a short track so i prefer acceleration over top speed.
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