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Old 03-07-2002, 06:17 PM   #391
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When you say heat the bulkheads, what temperature were you looking at? Do I use a heat gun or put the bulkhead in the oven? The rubber seals of the bearing will be burnt as well right?
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Old 03-07-2002, 08:15 PM   #392
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By the way, anyone knows by chance the sizes of the 2 bearings in the ball diffs?
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Old 03-08-2002, 09:07 AM   #393
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When I was at CHAMP RC, I saw products from "Racy" for the 414M. They make Delrin parts to replace all of the aluminum parts for the 414M except the steering blocks. All the blue TAMIYA parts where in the TAMIYA section and it was dirt cheap! Still I like the silver look over blue.

Anyway, I wonder if Delrin will take the weight off and be as sturdy as the aluminum?
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Old 03-08-2002, 05:36 PM   #394
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INITIAL D,

where is Champ RC??? I would love to get the RACY front carbon brace.

by the way, I thought you sold your TRF414M???
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Old 03-08-2002, 11:07 PM   #395
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INITIAL D ended up keeping his 414M because his OVA T4 is being rebuilt and re-anodized.
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Old 03-09-2002, 08:44 PM   #396
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I raced today and beat INITIAL D's (Joey?) 414M by 2 laps.

Anyway, did anyone notice after a few runs, the front belt got tighter? Mine is tight now after about 20 runs.
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Old 03-09-2002, 09:43 PM   #397
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I never had that problem Aurra. Interesting to hear but, something you wouldn't think would happen, mine got noticeably looser.
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Old 03-10-2002, 06:31 AM   #398
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Quote:
Originally posted by rccarracer
I never had that problem Aurra. Interesting to hear but, something you wouldn't think would happen, mine got noticeably looser.
I couldn't agree more
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Old 03-10-2002, 11:54 AM   #399
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Aurra Sing

You forgot that he(Joey)told you to go after you got tangled with him on his TQ pace . And then Joey running a P2K in the mod class?! And you where running what turn motor?
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Old 03-10-2002, 07:21 PM   #400
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Any idea on how to solve the problem of loose/stripped screw threads in front steering knuckles besides changing to aluminium units?
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Old 03-11-2002, 04:50 AM   #401
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Kenneth, good run yesterday. Hope to see you use the 414M for the next rcmc race! I will be there too! The next tamiya series... in midst of exam. I will see if I can spare the time.

Anyhow, for the plastic uprights, I found that if I thread them first before installing, helps alot.

Also, the hub carrier has a few degrees of castor, so cannot screw 90 degrees to the hub carrier, but must be 90 degree to the upright itself. I've stripped 2 uprights before, now after this been using the upright for like 3 races and lots of runs @ yuan ching. No problems.

Join us there if you are free. I love the 414M but can't afford one yet.

Regards,
Alvin
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Old 03-11-2002, 12:16 PM   #402
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Striped 4-screws on the bottom. TAMIYA screws are kind of weak. Had to do some dilling but got them all out. Replaced the whole car with chrome stainless screws made by "Square", Japan.

Anyway, putting the sway bar in the very front bulkhead of the car facing back or putting it onto the top plate facing forward? What is the difference in handling?
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Old 03-13-2002, 01:26 PM   #403
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I think that the longer the distance between swaybar and arms, the less effect..., so is a milder swaybar effect with the new possition...but correct me if im wrong!!!
Cu
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Old 03-13-2002, 07:31 PM   #404
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That sounds like it makes sense. I guess that's why the new 414M's are coming this way now with the sway bar on the top plate facing forward.
Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2002, 07:33 PM   #405
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Does anyone know when the 414m2 will be released. But i know the limited edition will be released this end of the month in japan.
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