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Old 12-02-2008, 09:37 AM   #3286
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GCT69,
Got the car clean last night.
Here are the pics Link:
http://s375.photobucket.com/albums/o...72nova/TRF414/

Let me know what you think
Dave
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:52 AM   #3287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer72nova View Post
GCT69,
Got the car clean last night.
Here are the pics Link:
http://s375.photobucket.com/albums/o...72nova/TRF414/

Let me know what you think
Dave
looks nice and "clean". did you do any mods mounting the rear and front shock towers? my rear TWR is cracked. How is the handling of the car with those lt.wt. arms and do you part # for it?

tnx
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:10 AM   #3288
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Hello,
When I started out I bought the Suspension kit for the TB02/TA04 from Japan last spring. I have 42mm shafts in the front and 46mm shafts in the back. The 415 blocks bolt right no mods needed. The 416 shock towers, you have to make new holes on the bottom bolt holes. The upper holes line right to the bulkheads. I used my old shock towers as a guide. After this mod it does lower the shock upper location down a couple mm. I think it helps with the suspension movement. I never drove the car better the changes. My car is used as a T/A car with 21.5/lipo power.

I do love how the car handles!
I hope this helps
Dave

Last edited by dragracer72nova; 12-02-2008 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:16 AM   #3289
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hey all

nice to see that you guy`s racing the "old" cars
I really like to read this tread.


-x414x which nr 414 do you have ?
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:15 PM   #3290
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gizmo:

It's number 563. It all started with the bulkheads procured from Yahoo auctions Japan (left-overs from a 414m conversion). Everything else was order from Tamiya USA about 5 years ago. I got out of the hobby and got hooked on full-scale autos

Now that my full scale project car is damn near done, I now have some dough and plenty of time to get back into r/c's. Never expected brushless motors to catch on
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:55 PM   #3291
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x414x
great and neat built
be sure to take good care of her, spares are very hard to find
good job

In my opion my 414`s racing times are over.(got 416wce for that)
they now rest on display.

They where great cars and they never broke down.....
Its fun to read people are still using them,

regards
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Old 12-02-2008, 04:20 PM   #3292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer72nova View Post
Hello,
When I started out I bought the Suspension kit for the TB02/TA04 from Japan last spring. I have 42mm shafts in the front and 46mm shafts in the back. The 415 blocks bolt right no mods needed. The 416 shock towers, you have to make new holes on the bottom bolt holes. The upper holes line right to the bulkheads. I used my old shock towers as a guide. After this mod it does lower the shock upper location down a couple mm. I think it helps with the suspension movement. I never drove the car better the changes. My car is used as a T/A car with 21.5/lipo power.

I do love how the car handles!
I hope this helps
Dave
tnx for the info, I will start with shock towers first and work my way to the suspension.
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:13 PM   #3293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer72nova View Post
Yes they do. I have to clean my car from racing this past week, but I get some pics of my 414Hybrid. You will have to go with longer CV axle shafts. My car has a 414 chassis, bulkheads, steering rack, with 415 Lite weight suspension and 416 front & rear shock towers and finish it off with 416 front hubs.
Dave

I will post some pics when I get the car clean
Dave,
Why with the 416 hubs?does it differ with a 415/evo blocks?
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:16 PM   #3294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCT69 View Post
Dave,
Why with the 416 blocks? will a 415 blocks work?

Hello,
I am running the 416 front hub because they give me the space I need to run the HPI Trans/Am wheel and tire combo on the front. I run 5mm hex with a.5mm spacer. The standard 415 will work but not for my T/A car. I will check to see how the fronts will work with a set of Jaco Prism foams.
Dave
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:46 PM   #3295
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GCT69,
With the 416 front hubs, with a set of Jaco Prism foams, you will have to run 6mm hex with maybe a .5 or 1mm washer.
I hope this helps you out.
Dave
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:57 PM   #3296
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dave,

tnx for the info
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:45 PM   #3297
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Heres my set-up I used at the IIC for rubber tire carpet set-up
I ran the short light weight arms
front:

evo4 spool and locked center pulleys
ta05 black thick sway bar
1d/1d
arm spacing at the blocks were 3mm front and 6mm to the rear
2 hole pistons with associated 50 weight and tamiya white springs
middle hole on the shock tower
I used the camber kink mounts on the shock tower-middle long hole on the shock tower
6mm of droop measured with an ae droop guage at the arm
4mm wheel hexes with no spacers all the way around
0 degrees of toe out in the front

rear:

I used 415 aluminum diff halves for a more durable rear diff no shimms( there will be a little slop, it works fine)
ta05 black medium sway bar and original 0 degree uprights with a 2mm spacer under the camber link(middle hole)
1xa/1e
arm spacing at the blocks were 9mm closest to the motor/1mm to the rear
3 hole pistons associated 50wt with tamiya white springs middle hole on the shock tower
camber links were the same as the front ont shock tower(middle long)
5mm of droop measured the same way
1 1/2 camber all the way around and 5mm ride height
sauced the rear tires for 10 minutes prior to sauceing the front(only sauced 1/2 of the fronts)
mazda speed 6
jaco blues were the handout tire
I also moved the motor to the center of the car by shimming it 8mm with a ta04 top lay shaft
Note: fast lap if I remember correctly was around 11.9? and my fast lap was a 12.11. The set-up wasn't perfect, but was easy to drive hard. I just couldn't drive for 5 minutes without making mistakes. if your battery doesn't clear the front belt. Just a belt tensioner on the lower deck. Hope this helps you guys with a good starting point for rubber tire carpet.
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Old 12-09-2008, 09:06 PM   #3298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
Heres my set-up I used at the IIC for rubber tire carpet set-up
I ran the short light weight arms
front:

evo4 spool and locked center pulleys
ta05 black thick sway bar
1d/1d
arm spacing at the blocks were 3mm front and 6mm to the rear
2 hole pistons with associated 50 weight and tamiya white springs
middle hole on the shock tower
I used the camber kink mounts on the shock tower-middle long hole on the shock tower
6mm of droop measured with an ae droop guage at the arm
4mm wheel hexes with no spacers all the way around
0 degrees of toe out in the front

rear:

I used 415 aluminum diff halves for a more durable rear diff no shimms( there will be a little slop, it works fine)
ta05 black medium sway bar and original 0 degree uprights with a 2mm spacer under the camber link(middle hole)
1xa/1e
arm spacing at the blocks were 9mm closest to the motor/1mm to the rear
3 hole pistons associated 50wt with tamiya white springs middle hole on the shock tower
camber links were the same as the front ont shock tower(middle long)
5mm of droop measured the same way
1 1/2 camber all the way around and 5mm ride height
sauced the rear tires for 10 minutes prior to sauceing the front(only sauced 1/2 of the fronts)
mazda speed 6
jaco blues were the handout tire
I also moved the motor to the center of the car by shimming it 8mm with a ta04 top lay shaft
Note: fast lap if I remember correctly was around 11.9? and my fast lap was a 12.11. The set-up wasn't perfect, but was easy to drive hard. I just couldn't drive for 5 minutes without making mistakes. if your battery doesn't clear the front belt. Just a belt tensioner on the lower deck. Hope this helps you guys with a good starting point for rubber tire carpet.

Thank's for all the info.
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Old 12-13-2008, 06:42 PM   #3299
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got my best race of the season..... car handled great but I think I can gear up to two more teeth. Used to do just 32-33 laps, manage to do 35 laps. All I need to do now is be more consistent and more fluidity on turns.
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Old 04-29-2009, 04:49 AM   #3300
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Anyone have a spare SSG chassis for the 414m? PM me if you want to unload it $$$, or if you've seen one floating around at your local hobby shop.
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