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Old 11-28-2002, 03:55 PM   #1651
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I'll Post the worlds setup later today....
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Old 11-28-2002, 03:58 PM   #1652
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Along with pics of what you have to do to the car itself for it to work...
Like flip the front - rear suspension block and dremel the suspension arms.
All will be revealed in 4 hours.....

So stay tuned.
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Old 11-28-2002, 04:01 PM   #1653
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Quote:
Originally posted by Casey
Jenny, you are correct, if no spacers are in the roll center is low, therefore providing the lowest CG for weight transfer, that means traction,
Actually the more spacers you use the lower the CG will be as the chassis will be those many spacers lower then the arms, effectively lowering the center of gravity.
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Old 11-28-2002, 08:57 PM   #1654
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Actually the center of gravity stays at the same point. What you are doing is changing the roll center's relationship with the cars CG. With a low RC setup, the roll moment is larger and with a high RC, the roll moment is smaller because the raised suspension blocks bring the RC closer to the chassis CG. There's much more to it than that and I'm not exactly an expert with vehicle dynamics but there are several resources on the internet that describes what roll center is. Right now I'm building another chassis dubbed the "TRF 414M2 World Championship Replica-Replica-Shuri-Davi-Jun-O-Karn" BTW, D if you read these forums, thanks for the piece of paper.
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Old 11-28-2002, 11:23 PM   #1655
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Guys, there has been a lot of tips and tricks within this threads. Why don't you spent some times and reading them from the beginning.

Mercilles,
It would be a bit difficult this time to explain it with pictures. Anyway, I'll try to make it clearer,

Rear Uprights, see the suspension shaft holes. Find a place to drill (2.7mm) somewhere to get the idea of tightening the shaft by side screw so it won't move. The perfect spot to drill is at the bearings side face near bottom end. They already have a 2 closed circle adjacent to suspension shaft holes. Just drill that closed circle until you gain access/ you can see the shaft. Now use a side screw (the one use to thighten pinion gear to the motor). Now put your car on a Hudy alignment, and try tighten one screw while loosing the other screw. See the different in Hudy Toe-In reading. Hope it helps.
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Old 11-29-2002, 01:19 AM   #1656
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Default Re: Hi all

Quote:
Originally posted by Merciless
Casey ,

Have you got a good carpet set-up you can share with us ?

OR anyone else for that matter, i need carpet with foam tyre set-up

Anyone made any mods to there cars ?
Anyone got this ellusive Worlds set-up ?

Anyone got any other tips about the 414 you care to share??
This would interest me as well!!!
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Old 11-29-2002, 02:46 AM   #1657
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Sorry I haven't posted it yet, had a heap to do this afternoon.....
I'll try to get it up tonite still or tomorrow.....

But I will do it....
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Old 11-29-2002, 08:10 AM   #1658
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Default carpet setup with foam tires

Ok here goes,

first off, I raised the roll centers, 3mm of spacers in the front on the hinge pin blocks, they are level
In the rear I run Pro Squat, 3mm in the back block and 2 mm in the front block, causing the arm to sweep forward,

I don't have any spacers in the shocks, just use the droop screws, this is a great tool to fine tune traction as said above

I ran the car in stock for the first week, so you know how many TC3;s are down here, I just has cornor speed , and that is were it is all at, I can gear or bulid motor for the boring straight

Front,
60 wt oil
Purple Ass. springs
Middle hole on the tower
camber link on the bulk head with out the 2mm spacer
Jaco purp/orange tires

Rear
45 wt.
Copper Ass. spring
Middle hole on the tower
Camber link in the bottom outer hole on the tower
Jaco purp tires on rear
It may sound weird, but the car floats through the cornor, and is not loose



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Old 11-29-2002, 08:22 AM   #1659
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what gearing is everyone using on the 414 with a stock p2k?
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Old 11-29-2002, 09:04 AM   #1660
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Case,

Would you happen to know what do these Purple and Copper Ass. springs stand for in the Tamiya world?
What about Toe and Camber settings?

Thanx
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Old 11-29-2002, 09:39 AM   #1661
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Default Questions answered i think ?

Gearing for P2K2 try 27/87 48dp.


Springs Purple = 30 lb
copper = 25 lb
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Old 11-29-2002, 09:51 AM   #1662
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Default Casey

Are you running the original rear shock tower ?

as my car dose not have any variations of rear upper link placement,just the one position ?

This is actually placed on the gear box housings either side

Pyramid

the holes you suggest i drill out and use to adjust my tow-in + out are these the 2 blured ones in the bottom left of the picture ??

If so i have trouble seeing how it,ll help as surly there is no room for the knuckle arms to move by adjusting screws in there as the hole for the shaft to pass though is a tight fit ??
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Old 11-29-2002, 09:53 AM   #1663
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Default Rear Arm Pic

should have been attached to last post sorry guys
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rear arm.jpg (67.5 KB, 130 views)
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Old 11-29-2002, 10:03 AM   #1664
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I use the holes on the shock tower themselves, not the bulkhead

The Ass. springs are stiffer than Tamiya ones, I do not use sway bars on the car, I try to keep the car flat with the springs, and tweak screws
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Old 11-29-2002, 10:14 AM   #1665
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Default Casey

You should think about trying the sway bars espicially on carpet!

even greater corner speed can be achieved

also the X-Ray springs work very well with the tamiya shocks i,m using the complete x-ray spring set which allows alot of variations and inc. alot of springs for your 50 notes
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