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Old 11-25-2002, 06:10 PM   #1606
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Wyd - no, you do not need to buy another center one-way unit to convert to locked center. Rather, you can just purchase a single aluminum center pulley, part #53474. I recommend one o-ring inside the shock.

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Old 11-25-2002, 06:35 PM   #1607
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Thanks for that part number. That pulley looks like a TA03 alum pulley. I will have my shop order that part number for me. That is a real big help to me and alot of money saved. Now I will just build a new diff so then I have it and if I need to take the one way out I can do so.
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Old 11-25-2002, 07:18 PM   #1608
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Default Carpet Set-up

Front:
Oil tamiya 60wt
yellow spring
yellow sway bar
shock mount middle hole

Rear:
Oil tamiya 50wt
yellow spring
red sway bar
shock mount middle hole

Tires
Sorex 28R front
Sorex 24R Rear

Thats all i can tell you, my set up works since last time i went out i took sportsman class and the other time i TQ'd
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Old 11-25-2002, 07:18 PM   #1609
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
That pulley looks like a TA03 alum pulley.
Looks like but isn't.....different shaft diameter.
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Old 11-25-2002, 08:02 PM   #1610
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Quote:
Originally posted by rccarracer
Looks like but isn't.....different shaft diameter.

Also, the flange (is it the correct term) in the TA03 pulley is not fixed to the pulley. The pulley posted above is a single unit.
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Old 11-25-2002, 09:53 PM   #1611
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WYD use the part # above that is the one, I use a reg front diff, and the one way center, that keeps it consistent.

Tamiya built this car to compete in the World Cup of racing, therefore rubber tires, That car has a ton of rear traction, and the key it to let the back of the car rotate the center of the cornor,

Ok here goes,

first off, I raised the roll centers, 3mm of spacers in the front on the hinge pin blocks, they are level
In the rear I run Pro Squat, 3mm in the back block and 2 mm in the front block, causing the arm to sweep forward,

I don't have any spacers in the shocks, just use the droop screws, this is a great tool to fine tune traction as said above

I ran the car in stock for the first week, so you know how many TC3;s are down here, I just has cornor speed , and that is were it is all at, I can gear or bulid motor for the boring straight

Front,
60 wt oil
Purple Ass. springs
Middle hole on the tower
camber link on the bulk head with out the 2mm spacer
Jaco purp/orange tires

Rear
45 wt.
Copper Ass. spring
Middle hole on the tower
Camber link in the bottom outer hole on the tower
Jaco purp tires on rear
It may sound weird, but the car floats through the cornor, and is not loose

Last edited by Casey; 11-25-2002 at 09:57 PM.
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Old 11-25-2002, 11:29 PM   #1612
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Default abt the short wheel base tao4.....

Quote:
Originally posted by marvi
do you know the part nos.? thanks do i have to get both front and rear sets? also, with the shortened wheelbase using the canted arms, will the CVD's be at an angle? if yes, will this affect drivetrain efficiency or increase wear?
only the rear arms are different. the part number is : 50942 TA04-SS D Parts (Suspension Arm) everything else remains the same...drive shafts,diffs, belts,driver....... the wheelbase is only shortened by approximately 1cm++ so efficiency doesn't seem affected.wear rate seems fine too.
the car becomes slightly twitchy and seems to be able to take tight infields better.this suspension mode can also be used with any car using the tao4/414 type suspension and works similarly on any of these cars.can't get enough steering on 414 or tb? try these arms!
__________________
During heats, i use durex for both front and rear, with Hard inserts.

Sorex, i meant Sorex.
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Old 11-26-2002, 08:14 AM   #1613
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thanks ill look for that part in our lhs and try out the short wb. one more question: are there aftermarket short wb bodies available or is it only the tamiya mr2?
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Old 11-26-2002, 09:31 AM   #1614
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Casey... i am interested on the way u set the car with the rear a arms sweeping foward ...... care to explain what are the difference compared to switching the 3mm and 2 mm around ..

shorter arms ??
well just move the spacers on the A arm around to minimize the lenght of the suspension....
and yea i am still looking for extra stearing and corner speed
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Old 11-26-2002, 10:16 AM   #1615
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On the rear hinge pin mounts I have the front block at2 mm and the rear at 3mm,

I know a few of the TC3 and Losi factory guys are running pro squat, what this does is lets the car enter the cornor quicker, and rotate through the center quicker,
Before I made the change I was runing about 16.2 second laps, on a very tight twisty track,
Then when I got the arms to sweep forward I dropped to 15.9 ssec laps, It just helps the car glide , and carry speed throught the cornor.
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Old 11-26-2002, 10:45 AM   #1616
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Default TA04SS arms on 414M

Note that because the arms are pushed forward 1cm, the driveshaft will be at an extreme angle. You could lose some drivetrain efficiency.
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Old 11-26-2002, 11:35 AM   #1617
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Default Tow IN

Anyone checked the rear tow-in on there 414 worlds rep ?

just checked mine and one side is 2 deg and the other is 3deg ??
this is fixed by the rear/front blocks i tried turning 1 block at a time upside down to see if i could find a compramise but to no avail !!

i think my chassis must be drilled incorrectly !
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Old 11-26-2002, 12:06 PM   #1618
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Default Pics

me CAR
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pict0002.jpg (60.2 KB, 124 views)
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Old 11-26-2002, 03:53 PM   #1619
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Merciless
you could have a bent axle, or a bent rear arm?? I would check that ... just a thought
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Old 11-26-2002, 04:36 PM   #1620
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hey merciless, nice car man!!!
did your trf dampers come in fluorine coated or blue?
thanks
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