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Old 11-24-2002, 09:50 PM   #1591
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Does the 414m2 kit come with Ti turnbuckles? If not, what sizes are needed? Does it use 3mm thread? Thanks.
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Old 11-24-2002, 11:13 PM   #1592
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Default shorter wheelbase?easy!

salutations !
the tamiya mrs uses canted arms to shorten the wheelbase.
all you have to do is to get the same canted arms used on the mrs
i've got a pair myself when a friend sold me the clear mrs body n the arms,works something wicked!
try it!but there are no hardened versions for the canted arms.
hope this helps!
-FP
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Old 11-24-2002, 11:26 PM   #1593
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Quote:
Originally posted by elnitro
Does the 414m2 kit come with Ti turnbuckles? If not, what sizes are needed? Does it use 3mm thread? Thanks.
No, the turnbuckles in the M2 kit are steel. Yes, it uses 3mm thread ball cups.
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Old 11-24-2002, 11:53 PM   #1594
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I love my 414MII and it works great on carpet!
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Old 11-25-2002, 02:55 AM   #1595
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aurra Sing
For the on-power steering:
  • Reduce the anti-squat angle, if you modified it
  • Increase the rear droop (or lessen front droop)
For the sliding:
  • Make sure you have the right tires. The right traction compound also makes a huge difference, on carpet.
  • Lean the rear shocks a hole or two
  • Increase the upper link spacing overall to make it less aggressive
  • Having that much less viscosity in the rear will give you a lot of high-speed steering, and tends to break loose in the corners. I usually use 50wt. in the front and 40wt in the rear (Trinity brand oil.)

[edit]Added a few more things.[/edit]
What do you recommend, should I make the front softer or the back stiffer?
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Old 11-25-2002, 03:21 AM   #1596
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Default Torque rods

Got my 414m2 WCE up and running, not raced it yet but have a question:

With the WCE style front sway bar you lose the torque rods from the hubs to the top deck, how would you compare the handling with this configuration compared to the standard sway bar mounting with the torque rods?
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Old 11-25-2002, 04:09 AM   #1597
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Quote:
Originally posted by foampervert

the tamiya mrs uses canted arms to shorten the wheelbase.
all you have to do is to get the same canted arms used on the mrs
i've got a pair myself when a friend sold me the clear mrs body n the arms,works something wicked!
try it!but there are no hardened versions for the canted arms.
hope this helps!
-FP
do you know the part nos.? thanks do i have to get both front and rear sets? also, with the shortened wheelbase using the canted arms, will the CVD's be at an angle? if yes, will this affect drivetrain efficiency or increase wear?
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Old 11-25-2002, 08:27 AM   #1598
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vic
What do you recommend, should I make the front softer or the back stiffer?
Oil? Shocks? I recommend 50wt in front, 40wt oil in rear. Yellow springs all around. Take off the rear sway bar... doesn't do anything. That is what the fastest rubber stock carpet driver is using (414M2.)

Last edited by Aurra Sing; 11-25-2002 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 11-25-2002, 08:29 AM   #1599
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Default Re: Torque rods

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnA
Got my 414m2 WCE up and running, not raced it yet but have a question:

With the WCE style front sway bar you lose the torque rods from the hubs to the top deck, how would you compare the handling with this configuration compared to the standard sway bar mounting with the torque rods?
Torque rods will make the car push more, if I remember correctly. You don't need torque rods... the suspension is strong enough as is.

With the WCE style front sway bar, an equal color sway bar will be softer compared to the stock setup. That is why the new sway bar kit includes a thicker 1.8mm sway bar.
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Old 11-25-2002, 08:46 AM   #1600
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aurra Sing
Oil? Shocks? I recommend 50wt in front, 40wt oil in rear. Yellow springs all around. Take off the rear sway bar... doesn't do anything. That is what the fastest rubber stock carpet driver is using (414M2.)
I will give it a try on Sunday and I tell you what was my impression afterwards.
Just thinking loud:With your recommendation the front will be softer and the rear stiffer compared to my set-up now(70wt,white spring front-40wt, orange rear)
Would not this make the rear slide even more?
Again I am quite new to the hobby as well as the car this is why I am asking a lot.

Thanks again!!!!
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Old 11-25-2002, 02:30 PM   #1601
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Vic it seems with almost every touring car I have had that the stiffer you make a car the more bite you get. If you go stiffer in the front then you will get more bite. If you go softer on either end then you will loose a little traction. This is all up to a point as you can go too stiff or too soft.

I saw this more with my TA03R than any other car but it still has held true with my other cars I have had (FSR Bullet, Yoke MR4TC SP, Schumacher 98, 99, 00, Axis, Axis 2 to name a few)

I just got a 414M2 and will be trying white front springs with 70wt and dark blue springs with 70wt for the rear. I use Tamiya springs and all stock mounting positions at this time. I'm also running the car as short as possible at this time. I run foams at our local asphalt track and will be trying it for the first time this Friday. It seems like a really nice car. I don't care for saddle packs but I'm going to try it anyway.
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Old 11-25-2002, 02:57 PM   #1602
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WYD, I have the carpet setup for you, and I know it will work up there,
The car has a TON of traction built in, you have to free up the car so it will rotate the cornor, I have the thing faster than my TC3, And I haven;t tried everything yet,
I won this Sat at MIMI's with it, on the first day I ran..

The set up is radical, but works..

Casey
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Old 11-25-2002, 04:27 PM   #1603
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Casey that is great to hear. Did you run stock or mod and do you run those one ways in your car? I just never liked one ways but I'm going to RCO on Friday to practice with the car and to try to get use to the one way and the overall feel of the car.

I just rebuilt the whole car and it is very nice and tight. I'm impressed with it as it is tighter than my Yoke SP was buy a ton. It looks like a fun car to run. I will more than likely build a front diff for it and I would like to buy the stuff I need to take the center one way out to. I diff stuff is no big deal but the taking out the center one way you need to buy a 40 some dollar part just to get a single piece needed to take the center one way out, or do you or know what part number I need to buy to take out the center one way?

Did you use any spacers inside the shocks at all? I don't have any spacers in the shocks but I had to use the tweak screws a ton as the car stock has a ton of travel and I had on 59mm foams and still had like 10mm or more ride height before I turned the shock collars up some and used the tweak screws. I'm really new to this car so I'm a little out in the dark with it.

Thanks
WYD
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Old 11-25-2002, 06:03 PM   #1604
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Default Droop Screws

Don,t be using them to help set your ride height m8!
hope i,m not teaching you to suck eggs but you use the droop screws to fine adjust your grip in corners(balance) not ride height
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Old 11-25-2002, 06:07 PM   #1605
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Default CASEY

Any Chance of posting that set-up ?
i,m looking for a good foam/carpet/stock motor set-up
if possible use spring lb ratings instead of colours if you don,t mind posting

thx
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