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Old 11-21-2002, 12:47 PM   #1576
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Thanks Geppetto!
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Old 11-21-2002, 05:05 PM   #1577
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can a tamiya silver can motor by used with the trf or do i have to get a motor that has teh bruhes?

for sur i'm getting one for my b-day on sat, but i don't know if it's gonna be here by then. the guy at my lhs said that his pratner is in japan and will picl one up and send it? will it make it on sat?
i love LHS, their the best rc people

oh yea, i forgot.
did anyone try to mount a ta04 carbon lower tub chassie on a trf?
i mean, all you have to do is is line up teh trf chassie and the tub and mark where teh dill holes are, then make holes and install teh carbon lower tub chassie. would that work? i want to run in none smooth places adn would like to have an option betweent teh sweet trf carbon decka dn teh lowre tub chassie. so tell if that would work cause that's the first thing i'll do when i get my trf.

thanks

Last edited by sengming; 11-21-2002 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 11-21-2002, 05:17 PM   #1578
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Quote:
Originally posted by sengming
can a tamiya silver can motor by used with the trf or do i have to get a motor that has teh bruhes?

The TRF414m's motor mount does not seem support a silver can motor because the silver cans are too high. You might be able to fit it if you modified the motor mount but it would bring tears to my eyes if you did dremel it
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Old 11-21-2002, 05:50 PM   #1579
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Quote:
Originally posted by sengming
did anyone try to mount a ta04 carbon lower tub chassie on a trf?
i mean, all you have to do is is line up teh trf chassie and the tub and mark where teh dill holes are, then make holes and install teh carbon lower tub chassie. would that work? i want to run in none smooth places adn would like to have an option betweent teh sweet trf carbon decka dn teh lowre tub chassie. so tell if that would work cause that's the first thing i'll do when i get my trf.

thanks
there r other unforeseen things such as the steering arm post etc...
on the tub,the position to place the steering arm posts is also molded,...i believe the 414m n the 04r steering arm post r at different length apart,tat's y u can't fit the WCR anti-roll bar set on the 04r...
if i'm not wrong,the motor mount plate is different also,of course bside the fact tat the 04r's has fins n the 414m is a plate,i believe the height might b different also,because the 04r motor mount is to b slotted into the tub...
can't tell at tis moment,...have 2 check carefully.but from wat i notice b4,tis is the case...
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Old 11-22-2002, 06:41 AM   #1580
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do you guys know which aftermarket heavy duty plastic ball end (pref. RPM) is a direct replacement of the stock ball ends of the 414M? thanks for any info
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Old 11-22-2002, 07:30 AM   #1581
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I got my 414 m2 WC edition from japan last week, Its number #1055 of 1700 and i got the box signed by Surikarn and Murai who designed the car. The car itself is so nice to build it all slots together, the only thing i was dissapointed with was having to cut out the wishbones to get the other roll centers and having to add more shims to the inner wishbone piviots the get rid of the slop. Rick
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Old 11-22-2002, 11:48 AM   #1582
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"Nervously, entering a room full of people I don't know"

Hi!!! I'm now the proud owner of a brand new Tamiya TRF 414M2. After getting the opinion of others and reading some of the many post I decided that the 414 was the car for me.

Before I put it on the track, I'd just like to know which parts I need to keep on hand because of possible breakage (suspension arms, C hubs, carriers, shock towers???). Not that my driving skills are that bad, it's just that I have not driven in quite a while.

Also, is the supplied spur/pinion combination included in the kit suitable for stock racing?

Any other suggestions or "atta-boy" comments are encouraged.

BTW, where can I find information on the TRF 414M2 WRC edition car?

Cheers
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Old 11-22-2002, 12:15 PM   #1583
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Glad that you have decided on a 414M2. The tamiya spurs are good enough for racing, however I have found that RW Racing spurs and Ti Racing pinions work really well. Fortunately, the 414 shares a lot of suspension parts with the popular TA04 so you shouldn't have a problem getting parts in a pinch. Perhaps a shock towers are a good spare to have. And depending on your your track (sometimes we race on a roadcoarse with a banked oval) you should use bits of chassis protector sheets on the front and rear of the main chassis (spares cost a fortune). Extra ball cups are good to have around as well. Tamiya also sells a screw balls (don't have part #) that would surely lock those ball cups in place (and remove slop). Hope this helps.
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Old 11-22-2002, 01:33 PM   #1584
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Quote:
Originally posted by Geppetto
Almost forgot: Speedtech R/C's price is $264.99. I personally recommend their services!
I totally agree, Steve will take care of you. That's where I will get mine from, next month
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Old 11-23-2002, 08:06 PM   #1585
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Default help with tamiya parts

My 414 parts number does not correspond to the manufacturers numbers at towerhobbies for some reason. I cant seem to find the 6X6.5mm ball nuts. My kit had a defective one that would not take in the screw for some reason. Also are the carbon reinforced arms on my 414 the same as the TA04 carbon reinforced arms? They look identical. Thanx.
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Old 11-23-2002, 08:51 PM   #1586
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yes
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Old 11-23-2002, 10:04 PM   #1587
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Are any of you guys using the rear hinge pin blocks form the EVO 3, to change the rear toe-in,
or what are you guys using to change it,
I am running my car on carpet with foam tires, I have if really good, just a little too much rear bite, looking to decrease the rear toe in,

Casey
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Old 11-24-2002, 01:02 PM   #1588
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Aside from a good phillips head screwdriver, what other hex tools do I need to build a 414? (eg. 5mm ball driver, 2.5mm ....etc..)


Thanks.
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Old 11-24-2002, 02:10 PM   #1589
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1.5mm hex and 2 mm hex end driver. also you might want a 2.5mm hex in hand handy. I think I used it once... well maybe not.... i'm not so sure....
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Old 11-24-2002, 05:06 PM   #1590
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Have some good phillips head screw drivers. Most cars use #1 and #2 screw drivers anyways, so get those. I used a 1.5mm and 2.5mm hex driver. I think there may be a 2.0mm hex screws as well. Get yourself a good set of needle nose pliers, sprue cutter, and hobby knife. One more thing: i used associated's ball diff lube and thrust ball lube when building my differential and a dab of serpent oneway bearing oil.
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