Tekin RS ESC sensored
03-01-2011, 05:35 PM
Awesome thanks Randy!
03-01-2011, 06:00 PM
I will try this when I get home from work and report back whether it worked or not.
So, does this indicate that tightening up the screws is applying to much pressure to the sensor board? Has to be some reasonable explanation... and resulting fix other than leaving the screws loose.
So, does this indicate that tightening up the screws is applying to much pressure to the sensor board? Has to be some reasonable explanation... and resulting fix other than leaving the screws loose.
If I unhooked the sensor wire, the RS would power up.
Changed to a known good sensor wire... nothing on the RS.
Put the old sensor wire back and hooked to a known good motor... RS would power up.
Went back to the Synergy, tried loosening the endbell screws thing... nothing on the RS.
The known good motor was a D3, so I swapped the sensor board to the Synergy (since it is also a D3)... and the RS would power up.
Looks like I'm back in business... just need to get another sensor board for the Synergy.
Last edited by slakr; 03-02-2011 at 05:04 AM.
03-01-2011, 06:27 PM
Seems like mine was actually a BAD sensor board.
If I unhooked the sensor wire, the RS would power up.
Changed to a known good sensor wire... nothing on the RS.
Put the old sensor wire back and hooked to a known good motor... RS would power up.
Tried the loosening the endbell screws thing... nothing on the RS.
The known good motor was a D3, so I swapped the sensor board to the Synergy (since it is also a D3)... and the RS would power up.
Looks like I'm back in business... just need to get another sensor board for the Synergy.
If I unhooked the sensor wire, the RS would power up.
Changed to a known good sensor wire... nothing on the RS.
Put the old sensor wire back and hooked to a known good motor... RS would power up.
Tried the loosening the endbell screws thing... nothing on the RS.
The known good motor was a D3, so I swapped the sensor board to the Synergy (since it is also a D3)... and the RS would power up.
Looks like I'm back in business... just need to get another sensor board for the Synergy.
03-01-2011, 06:45 PM
03-01-2011, 07:35 PM
There have been issues using the Novak booster with the RS running boosted setups. It works just fine in the non-boosted profile but not with boosted setups.
03-01-2011, 11:58 PM
Tech Rookie
need advice, is there anyone running an epic D3 10,5t on 1/10 TC, i'm racing in a large asphalt nitro track, currently using lrp x12 10,5t and so far it's the fastest ever hooked-up on my rspro, laptimes faster than a nitro TC by .3 to .5 sec. the only problem is high temp. typical of x12 series it can reach even over 100°C anyway with no issues. thanks.
03-02-2011, 04:41 AM
I've heard the samething but others in my club some running receiver packs & others are using TQ boosters are having the same problem.
03-02-2011, 07:07 AM
Can you upgrade your Tekin RS to RS pro? I got the RA# for replacement of my non-warranty RS so I'm wondering if tekin offer an upgrade option? Like the "N" company offers to their customers.
03-02-2011, 08:34 AM
Yes, you can pay the difference to change items.
03-02-2011, 08:38 AM
If the booster or rx pack cannot supply enough power the unit will not chime and will not work.
03-02-2011, 10:11 AM
But somewhere the info has been misunderstood. Everything chimes , we all can run a 10min main but 2-3 minutes in the power/boost/ etc. goes flat initial punch/boost is gone. But will post our esc setting tonight like you had earlier requested.
03-02-2011, 10:21 AM
This is a common issue with too much timing and or gear with 1s racing.
I try to set my car up to loose only .5s a lap at 8min, vs: shooting for fastest lap in the 1st min.
This is more a battery punch issue than the motor getting hot or going flat, not the same as 2s racing.
03-02-2011, 11:26 AM
03-02-2011, 11:29 AM
Yeah with 1s, just a few degrees too much timing or a tooth or two too much gear and they will completely fall on their face just a few minutes in.
Just as an example, ran my first 1/12th 17.5 boosted race a month or so ago (usually run 10.5 or mod) so had to start from scratch on set-up. Also my first time running an LRP motor (always ran Tekin or Duo before).
First heat I was good, 9.9 laps to start, 10.5 at the end but wanted a bit more speed so for the second heat I went up two teeth and added 5 degrees more boost.
Well at first this seemed ok, ran 9.8's up front but started falling off just a minute in. By halfway (4 minutes in) the car had gone so flat it was ridiculous. By the end I was running 11.9's! crazy slow.
3rd heat, dropped a tooth and took that extra 5 degrees of boost back out. Still ran 9.8's up front but still fell off really hard. I think 10.9's at the end.
So for the main (managed to qualify 3rd despite all this) I left the gearing alone but dropped the boost down another 10 degrees. Was only able to run one or two 9.9's early but this thing didn't fall off at ALL. 1 minute in I was in a three car freight train with the two fastest guys and by halfway, I was the fastest car on the track. A couple mistakes cost me the win, but I managed to catch the leader just as we got to the line to end the race. One more lap and I would have had him. Was still running 10.2 and 10.3 at the end.
1s, especially 17.5 there is a VERY narrow sweet spot. Find it, you're fast. Miss it by a hair and you are either slow or the thing falls off so bad you would think the motor or the battery was fried.
Just as an example, ran my first 1/12th 17.5 boosted race a month or so ago (usually run 10.5 or mod) so had to start from scratch on set-up. Also my first time running an LRP motor (always ran Tekin or Duo before).
First heat I was good, 9.9 laps to start, 10.5 at the end but wanted a bit more speed so for the second heat I went up two teeth and added 5 degrees more boost.
Well at first this seemed ok, ran 9.8's up front but started falling off just a minute in. By halfway (4 minutes in) the car had gone so flat it was ridiculous. By the end I was running 11.9's! crazy slow.
3rd heat, dropped a tooth and took that extra 5 degrees of boost back out. Still ran 9.8's up front but still fell off really hard. I think 10.9's at the end.
So for the main (managed to qualify 3rd despite all this) I left the gearing alone but dropped the boost down another 10 degrees. Was only able to run one or two 9.9's early but this thing didn't fall off at ALL. 1 minute in I was in a three car freight train with the two fastest guys and by halfway, I was the fastest car on the track. A couple mistakes cost me the win, but I managed to catch the leader just as we got to the line to end the race. One more lap and I would have had him. Was still running 10.2 and 10.3 at the end.
1s, especially 17.5 there is a VERY narrow sweet spot. Find it, you're fast. Miss it by a hair and you are either slow or the thing falls off so bad you would think the motor or the battery was fried.
03-02-2011, 11:48 AM