Tekin RS ESC sensored
10-05-2010, 09:23 AM
[QUOTE=jjfo80;8028555]
A couple of pages ago I explained what I had to do with my futaba 4pk and that was having the transmitter in normal servo mode then calibrate the speedie by using the brake as the throttle and the throttle as the brake. then switch it to rev servo mode and your set to go... try that and let us know.
Cheers mate
Ok, will try this when get I get home this evening and post the result.
A couple of pages ago I explained what I had to do with my futaba 4pk and that was having the transmitter in normal servo mode then calibrate the speedie by using the brake as the throttle and the throttle as the brake. then switch it to rev servo mode and your set to go... try that and let us know.
Cheers mate
10-05-2010, 09:46 AM
it seems like every page has a post about a guy free revin his car.....I have seen more esc's pop doing this than I can count.......I tell guys every race day not too, it's crazy how people love that free revin' lol
with a ballistic 17.5 I should go around 40 on boost and motor timing at 15?
with a ballistic 17.5 I should go around 40 on boost and motor timing at 15?
10-05-2010, 02:22 PM
After a 6-minute heat, my battery is coming off at around 7.7-7.9. Couldn't someone just use that voltage value to calculate RPM's since that is the lowest value achieved while in operation? Short of very low turn motors, I can't imagine anyone's battery being down to 7.4 or less after a heat (assuming they are using a good, 5000+ battery).
10-05-2010, 04:42 PM
[quote=jjfo80;8028555]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuttermax View Post
A couple of pages ago I explained what I had to do with my futaba 4pk and that was having the transmitter in normal servo mode then calibrate the speedie by using the brake as the throttle and the throttle as the brake. then switch it to rev servo mode and your set to go... try that and let us know.
Cheers mate
[QUOTE=Kuttermax;8028855]Ok - tried it. Unfortunately same problem - much less power/rpm forward as compared to reverse....in fact maybe even a little worse.
One additional piece of information - I adjusted the amount of boost in 208. Adding boost makes REVERSE even faster and had no effect on FORWARD.
Here is the link that shows the problem:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJWiwi4Nqt0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuttermax View Post
A couple of pages ago I explained what I had to do with my futaba 4pk and that was having the transmitter in normal servo mode then calibrate the speedie by using the brake as the throttle and the throttle as the brake. then switch it to rev servo mode and your set to go... try that and let us know.
Cheers mate
[QUOTE=Kuttermax;8028855]Ok - tried it. Unfortunately same problem - much less power/rpm forward as compared to reverse....in fact maybe even a little worse.
One additional piece of information - I adjusted the amount of boost in 208. Adding boost makes REVERSE even faster and had no effect on FORWARD.
Here is the link that shows the problem:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJWiwi4Nqt0
Last edited by Kuttermax; 10-05-2010 at 06:26 PM. Reason: video link added
10-05-2010, 06:08 PM
I'm sure this has been covered over and over but I don't have it in me to look over 1100+ pages.
What is ramping and how is it accessed?
What is ramping and how is it accessed?
10-05-2010, 06:25 PM
10-05-2010, 07:06 PM
[QUOTE=Kuttermax;8030686][quote=jjfo80;8028555]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuttermax View Post
A couple of pages ago I explained what I had to do with my futaba 4pk and that was having the transmitter in normal servo mode then calibrate the speedie by using the brake as the throttle and the throttle as the brake. then switch it to rev servo mode and your set to go... try that and let us know.
Cheers mate
Ok - tried it. Unfortunately same problem - much less power/rpm forward as compared to reverse....in fact maybe even a little worse.
One additional piece of information - I adjusted the amount of boost in 208. Adding boost makes REVERSE even faster and had no effect on FORWARD.
Here is the link that shows the problem:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJWiwi4Nqt0
That's kind of funny. Here is what I would start with, reset the speed control to factory settings. That way you are starting with a clean slate.
Make sure your throttle is reversed on the radio. (I have this radio) I might try resetting the profile for the particular model too. There might be a setting in the radio that is preventing full throttle, although from looking at your lights they seem to flash as if the controller is seeing the end point.
Now calibrate the radio to the speed control.
After that check the motor timing and make sure that it is positive for the motor direction.
If this strangeness persists, I would update the firmware again via the hotwire and then start over.
Once you get things straightened out, pick one of the new default profiles and see if you can tell the difference. Otherwise the factory default Custom profile that is selected after the firmware update is in "dual mode" and will not have the power that the sensored only mode gives you.
Anyway, try these and see if this fixes the problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuttermax View Post
A couple of pages ago I explained what I had to do with my futaba 4pk and that was having the transmitter in normal servo mode then calibrate the speedie by using the brake as the throttle and the throttle as the brake. then switch it to rev servo mode and your set to go... try that and let us know.
Cheers mate
Ok - tried it. Unfortunately same problem - much less power/rpm forward as compared to reverse....in fact maybe even a little worse.
One additional piece of information - I adjusted the amount of boost in 208. Adding boost makes REVERSE even faster and had no effect on FORWARD.
Here is the link that shows the problem:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJWiwi4Nqt0
Make sure your throttle is reversed on the radio. (I have this radio) I might try resetting the profile for the particular model too. There might be a setting in the radio that is preventing full throttle, although from looking at your lights they seem to flash as if the controller is seeing the end point.
Now calibrate the radio to the speed control.
After that check the motor timing and make sure that it is positive for the motor direction.
If this strangeness persists, I would update the firmware again via the hotwire and then start over.
Once you get things straightened out, pick one of the new default profiles and see if you can tell the difference. Otherwise the factory default Custom profile that is selected after the firmware update is in "dual mode" and will not have the power that the sensored only mode gives you.
Anyway, try these and see if this fixes the problem.
10-05-2010, 07:23 PM
just a dumb question with my rs does it matter which way switch is with me running a lifr 200 mah pack? that just plugs in
10-05-2010, 07:27 PM
Tech Adept
After a 6-minute heat, my battery is coming off at around 7.7-7.9. Couldn't someone just use that voltage value to calculate RPM's since that is the lowest value achieved while in operation? Short of very low turn motors, I can't imagine anyone's battery being down to 7.4 or less after a heat (assuming they are using a good, 5000+ battery).
When there is a large current drawn from the battery, the voltage will drop. So the 7.7-7.9v you measured with NO load will not be accurate. For simplicity, most people use 7.4v (nominal voltage) for 2s lipo.
10-05-2010, 07:54 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Could I ask for a hand with a problem I have with an RS.
I'm using a RS and a Tekin 17.5 in a SCT. I'm running in sensored mode and all settings are right as I run the same setup in two trucks.
Every now and then it will not apply timing advance/boost or turbo. I'm trying to figure out if it is the cable, motor or ESC.
I though I read something months ago about spinning the wheels and checking the leds?
Shouldnt I be able to keep most of the settings and run in unsensored mode?
The power it puts out when it acts up is equivalant to my old LRP Sphere. Huge difference!! lol
I'm using a RS and a Tekin 17.5 in a SCT. I'm running in sensored mode and all settings are right as I run the same setup in two trucks.
Every now and then it will not apply timing advance/boost or turbo. I'm trying to figure out if it is the cable, motor or ESC.
I though I read something months ago about spinning the wheels and checking the leds?
Shouldnt I be able to keep most of the settings and run in unsensored mode?
The power it puts out when it acts up is equivalant to my old LRP Sphere. Huge difference!! lol
10-05-2010, 08:08 PM
[QUOTE=macdude;8031392][QUOTE=Kuttermax;8030686]
Thanks for the suggestions.
I have tried a number of them before, but I did go ahead and reflash completely tonight but it didn't help.
I also ripped out my Traxxas 2.4 GHz system from an E-revo to see if it would change things, but it did the exact same thing with the Traxxas, so it seems that the radio is not the problem.
Randy has been helping me behind the scenes and also suggested trying the C2 profile. This gave some promising results - I kept it in sensored mode but then dialed up the boast to 45 (roughly between 5000 and 20,000) rpm and left timing advance at 80. This noticeable increased both forward and reverse speeds. Reverse was still faster but at least forward had some "rip" to it.
Our local track has a practice session tomorrow, so I'll give it a go and see how the car feels.
The only other thing I can think of trying is going out and getting a Tekin motor and seeing if it performs any differently. However there are clearly tons of people who have run Novak Ballistics successfully with Tekin RS speed controls, so I doubt that this would make any difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuttermax View Post
A couple of pages ago I explained what I had to do with my futaba 4pk and that was having the transmitter in normal servo mode then calibrate the speedie by using the brake as the throttle and the throttle as the brake. then switch it to rev servo mode and your set to go... try that and let us know.
Cheers mate
That's kind of funny. Here is what I would start with, reset the speed control to factory settings. That way you are starting with a clean slate.
Make sure your throttle is reversed on the radio. (I have this radio) I might try resetting the profile for the particular model too. There might be a setting in the radio that is preventing full throttle, although from looking at your lights they seem to flash as if the controller is seeing the end point.
Now calibrate the radio to the speed control.
After that check the motor timing and make sure that it is positive for the motor direction.
If this strangeness persists, I would update the firmware again via the hotwire and then start over.
Once you get things straightened out, pick one of the new default profiles and see if you can tell the difference. Otherwise the factory default Custom profile that is selected after the firmware update is in "dual mode" and will not have the power that the sensored only mode gives you.
Anyway, try these and see if this fixes the problem.
Originally Posted by Kuttermax View Post
A couple of pages ago I explained what I had to do with my futaba 4pk and that was having the transmitter in normal servo mode then calibrate the speedie by using the brake as the throttle and the throttle as the brake. then switch it to rev servo mode and your set to go... try that and let us know.
Cheers mate
That's kind of funny. Here is what I would start with, reset the speed control to factory settings. That way you are starting with a clean slate.
Make sure your throttle is reversed on the radio. (I have this radio) I might try resetting the profile for the particular model too. There might be a setting in the radio that is preventing full throttle, although from looking at your lights they seem to flash as if the controller is seeing the end point.
Now calibrate the radio to the speed control.
After that check the motor timing and make sure that it is positive for the motor direction.
If this strangeness persists, I would update the firmware again via the hotwire and then start over.
Once you get things straightened out, pick one of the new default profiles and see if you can tell the difference. Otherwise the factory default Custom profile that is selected after the firmware update is in "dual mode" and will not have the power that the sensored only mode gives you.
Anyway, try these and see if this fixes the problem.
I have tried a number of them before, but I did go ahead and reflash completely tonight but it didn't help.
I also ripped out my Traxxas 2.4 GHz system from an E-revo to see if it would change things, but it did the exact same thing with the Traxxas, so it seems that the radio is not the problem.
Randy has been helping me behind the scenes and also suggested trying the C2 profile. This gave some promising results - I kept it in sensored mode but then dialed up the boast to 45 (roughly between 5000 and 20,000) rpm and left timing advance at 80. This noticeable increased both forward and reverse speeds. Reverse was still faster but at least forward had some "rip" to it.
Our local track has a practice session tomorrow, so I'll give it a go and see how the car feels.
The only other thing I can think of trying is going out and getting a Tekin motor and seeing if it performs any differently. However there are clearly tons of people who have run Novak Ballistics successfully with Tekin RS speed controls, so I doubt that this would make any difference.
10-05-2010, 08:21 PM
[QUOTE=Kuttermax;8031752][QUOTE=macdude;8031392]
Thanks for the suggestions.
I have tried a number of them before, but I did go ahead and reflash completely tonight but it didn't help.
I also ripped out my Traxxas 2.4 GHz system from an E-revo to see if it would change things, but it did the exact same thing with the Traxxas, so it seems that the radio is not the problem.
Randy has been helping me behind the scenes and also suggested trying the C2 profile. This gave some promising results - I kept it in sensored mode but then dialed up the boast to 45 (roughly between 5000 and 20,000) rpm and left timing advance at 80. This noticeable increased both forward and reverse speeds. Reverse was still faster but at least forward had some "rip" to it.
Our local track has a practice session tomorrow, so I'll give it a go and see how the car feels.
The only other thing I can think of trying is going out and getting a Tekin motor and seeing if it performs any differently. However there are clearly tons of people who have run Novak Ballistics successfully with Tekin RS speed controls, so I doubt that this would make any difference.
Have you tried replacing the capacitor? Just throwing this out there.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I have tried a number of them before, but I did go ahead and reflash completely tonight but it didn't help.
I also ripped out my Traxxas 2.4 GHz system from an E-revo to see if it would change things, but it did the exact same thing with the Traxxas, so it seems that the radio is not the problem.
Randy has been helping me behind the scenes and also suggested trying the C2 profile. This gave some promising results - I kept it in sensored mode but then dialed up the boast to 45 (roughly between 5000 and 20,000) rpm and left timing advance at 80. This noticeable increased both forward and reverse speeds. Reverse was still faster but at least forward had some "rip" to it.
Our local track has a practice session tomorrow, so I'll give it a go and see how the car feels.
The only other thing I can think of trying is going out and getting a Tekin motor and seeing if it performs any differently. However there are clearly tons of people who have run Novak Ballistics successfully with Tekin RS speed controls, so I doubt that this would make any difference.
10-05-2010, 08:40 PM
what if you wire phase A to C, and C to A?
10-05-2010, 09:55 PM
I also use the 4PK with Teken RS Pro. I always run my throttle/brake EPA at 100%. When calibrating RS Pro, I put the EPA to 95%, calibrate and then switch back to 100%. This stopped the RS Pro dropping in and out of full throttle on long straights.
10-06-2010, 06:09 AM
What is the CAP size on the RS pro.. mine well broke 
