casino57

1100 pages and I don't have the time to look ...so I have a question that may have already been addressed. I ran my Tekin RS for the first time over the weekend....I noticed after I got put into a board that the car slowed. Not really sure how much in the infield but the straightaway speed was noticably slower. After a few more laps it came back. I was running a new 17.5 motor and a new lipo battery. Any ideas?

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Sounds like you possibly tripped to sensorless... Do the led readings for the sensors still cycle through as you spin the motor by hand?

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Depends on your RS settings. I personally don't like the feel of the motor when at 0. I have run anywhere from 4-12 degrees of motor timing. This is with a Tekin redline 17.5 Motor feels great and the temps haven't been higher than 160.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

You lost your sensors at some point. We will try to get them back during decceleration and go back to sensored only mode if we can. Check your sensors as was suggested using the RS's sensor checker feature.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

It won't fix the problem, but if it happens again this will keep your speed up a little better. Set your timing advance to 100% if you're running sensored only. THis way you will at least have some timing if the sensor falls out again.

artwork

iTrader: (88)

I used this exact method to diagnose a fellow racer's motor this weekend. I turned the rotor by hand and was able to show that not all of the hall sensors were firing. He put in another motor and the problem went away. I was able to point out the problem in about 20 seconds using the first three lights on the Tekin RS. Great feature!

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I've got a couple setup questions.

1) Redline 17.5 motor, no-timing class. Very tight indoor carpet track, lots of grip in the groove, not so much outside the groove. I initially tried a setup closer to what worked at a wider (but still relatively tight) outdoor track... 3.7 FDR and about 5 timing on the motor. Outdoors I found the car just didn't have enough top speed if the FDR was in the 4's, and I had to drop the timing way down to get temps under control. It felt a bit sluggish out of corners, so I left the timing and bumped the FDR up to 3.9. It felt better, if perhaps a bit sluggish at the end of the straight and through the sweeper (I didn't have to lift at all for the sweeper if I took a nice smooth line). Motor temps are around 140-150*F. The fast guy in class was running an LRP with normal insert and a 4.4 FDR (not sure if he dropped it later in the night). Would it be worth experimenting with a higher FDR and more motor timing, or do you think I'm in the ballpark?

2) I'm setting up a car for 25.5 no-timing, using the Novak Ballistic 25.5. Given the number of problems I've seen on here and in person using Ballistics with Tekins, I'm a bit apprehensive. Novak's site suggests a 3.5 FDR for the motor with "0" on the motor (not retarded, not advanced), but that seems like a good way to burn it up in a hurry if for some reason it's not cooperating with the Tekin. Any have any specific experience with this setup?

-Mike

CarbonJoe

I've been running VTA with virtually the same setup (Ballistic 25.5), except 3.6 FDR and timing on the motor halfway between N (30 degrees) and max timing. Works great, temps around 145 degrees. 90x40 carpet track, Sportsman Spec throttle profile. I do have a 3Racing fan/heatsink combo on it, however.

Bubblehead

Should I remove that amount of timing from my RS settings? I matched the FDR of most of the racers at the track, my RS settings are about the same and my car is much slower the only difference is Tekin 17.5.

hairy

iTrader: (1)

Can you explain to an old guy what you mean by "hall sensors" and how you checked it with lights on board. I am new to this and have been having the same drop off in power on my 13.5 X-12.

CarbonJoe

With the ESC on, turn the motor by hand. LEDs 5, 6, and 7 will come on dimly in sequence as the signal from each pole's sensor "reads" the rotor magnet. If you don't see them keep illuminating as you continue turning the motor by hand, then either the ESC, sensor board, or sensor wire is bad.

xray09ACT

iTrader: (7)

T3, 17.5

hairy

iTrader: (1)

awesome thank you!

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

IT's actually led's 5 6 7 that will dimmly cycle on/off. This is a feedback of the sensors in the motor. ALL 3 must cycle on/off or the motor has a bad sensor board. Also note that a bad sensor harness will also cause this so swap it out first as it's the cheapest and easiest to do.

spongerX

Depending on your motor brand your sensor cable may come out in a big crash. I've taken to zip tieing my sensor cable to one of the motor cables to stop it coming out in a crash on my Redline motor after I went through a frustrating series of races where I eventually noticed that my sensor cable was pulling out ever so slightly due to crashes.