markny

iTrader: (17)

looking for rpm setting for my duo 2 17.5 with tekin 208

kartermdb

iTrader: (15)

Randy posted my nats setup a few pages back, take a look at it, it should give you a good idea.

shadowR

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I just got my first BL setup, an RS with 10.5 redline motor.

I am getting a little worried as the acceleration is INSANE yet I have now got my FDR down to 4.5... I note that most others are running 10.5 in the 6s.. Is there any reason for this?

Car is an HB cyclone, 40/75 with 16t pulleys (2.4375 chassis ratio) = 4.57 FDR.

After a long bash on the street (the full life of my lipo) I am still able to touch the motor... So its not burning hot.

FYI I am running the ECU on the stock firmware and am yet to plug in my hotwire.

Any input and suggestions for settings would be great. Just want to make sure this is normal and im not putting it under undue load (back in the brushed days I would gear the thing to suit my acceleration desires).

Cheers,

macdude

iTrader: (6)

This sounds pretty normal. The default mode the controller is running in is dual mode. That way it starts out sensored and the runs sensorless. Which is more effecient than running in sensored only mode. The big difference between brushless and brushed is the amount of torque the motor is able to generate. If you switch to sensored only mode you will want to gear down some and then play with the advanced timing function to achieve the right top speed for your track. This will make the motor hotter ( less efficient) but better power control. Really it will just depend on your driving style. I would go to the track and ask around and see what others are running and/or try out their cars. If you are keeping up around the track you may want to leave the setup as is.

shadowR

iTrader: (1)

Thanks macdude,

I actually geared back down (FDR 5) and pumped the timing up to 72 (on version 180) to feel a drop in power. I also tried this on the taller gears and felt it was over geared...

Perhaps I will go back to dual mode and try gearing up another notch to 4.2..

Im generally only going to be a basher and meet with friends in the city for tiled fun (been doing this since I was a kid) so track time will be scarce (unless by some form of miracle I get hooked). Im feeling the all out torquey feeling really suits me, its why it took me years to switch away from brushed (I loved the feel of a good 27 or 23).

Thanks again, I guess I was probably expecting too much from the timing boost.

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

First time out with the tekin RS last night I almost TQ on expert stock if I haven't clip a darn disc but manage to take the win on A-main. Overall I'm very happy I switch to tekin I'm back on the game again. I'm still running the 203 firmware but overall power delivery is smooth and wow I got some top end that was lacking on my Mamba max pro.

jtrcracing

sounds great! congrats!
what engine did you use?

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

Novak Ballistic...

Finken

I have a problem, getting my 10.5 ballistic to be fast. Seems to never get hotter than 50*....

So i wonder how yor RS setup is?

When gearing heavy, 6.6 FDR it fades after 2 min, but temp is low..anyone?

macdude

iTrader: (6)

Post your settings. I would guess that you are getting turbo fade. Sometimes setting the end point of your radio a little past 100% will fix it . Might also try setting your delay a little higher. And a little lower ramp for turbo. Probably also need to set your starting timing boost RPM setting higher. I ran into this problem with a 17.5. When I started gearing for the speed, it was too much timing too fast and I ended up going slow. Not just a little slower, like 2.5 sec a lap slower. Just from getting my RPM range and turbo settings to work together fixed my issue. I haven't run a 10.5 but there are a lot of guys on here that do and should be able to answer you questions. But it is always nice to know where your are starting.

Finken

My settings is

Motor endbell N (on ballistic this is 30* or? This is a problem, Novak says 30 on N mark, other motors have 15 on N mark. This is confusing me.

Timing Boost 45
Turbo boost 10

Ramp 0.2
Turbo delay 0.2

Start rpm 5xxx
end rpm 20xxx

FDR 6.14

My competitors have MUCH more power, low and high. They run all on max, 5-20 X12 with FDR 6.14

One guy ran FDR 8.40 and ripped his belts and pullys..... but got 130* on X12

My motor dosent get hot, 45-55 degress C

yellowshark

Its always difficult comparing different motors Finken - who knows what the real motor timings are! BUT IMHO 5xxx is just WAY too low for a 10.5, especially on an X12; not familiar with the Ballistic but I can't believe 5K is OK. I start my X12 (-5deg timing insert) at 13xxx and my Tekin at 11xxx..

Can you actually see/feel your Turbo coming in before/after the car fades? Might be worth pushing the delay out to 0.5 + so you can check it IS coming in.
What is your ESC temp.?

mobile chicane1

Tekin RS /RS pro 208 software set up

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Has anyone got a link to an explanation of how the software works regarding boost turbo and timing advance, I am running a tekin rs with a GM brushless sport motor which is STAR wound will this affect the settings I need to use including the FDR on my xray t3 touring car.

I run indoors and overheating the motor is a realy big problem.

update.

I need to get my head round how the boost and turbo work and how to gear the car as I think I may have been over driving the motor.

there is no real info on the 208 software regarding set ups on the tekin website or forum .


I've just done a few runs with timing advance at zero, boost at 45 with 14000 to 4873 rpms and a turbo of only 5 and I get about 55degc with no fan fitted with a fdr of 7.5 .

I need to find a base fdr and also a base timing advance as my gm 13.5 brushless sport is labeld as having advanced timing 30 degrees.

the car seemed quick but didnt have the top end spool up ( posibly due to the advance being zero) but without somthing else to compare it to I have no idea

darrenoakley

Think I am finishing at 14000rpm (same motor) and starting somewhere around 5000/6000
I find that it keeps the temps down nice at this setting.
Great motors though

yellowshark

Hi guys I could really do with some help on where to start with this one.

Big regional meet today and I put the car down for Q2 and the ESC wouldn’t bind to the transmitter, all the lights were flashing. I tried a quick calibration but the single light just stayed in the middle blinking.

So I retired to the pit, tried a few times switching the transmitter and esc off, going into calibration mode. Sitting there it suddenly bound and I got 4 laps in.

Back at the pits it lost it again. In desperation I
Deleted and reinstalled Hotwire on the computer
Connected the ESC and hit Update to update the firmware with 208
Rekeyed my settings over the factory settings
Tried to calibrate and it worked.

Probably 3 or 4 minutes before Q3 I checked it and same problem. . Same thing I couldn’t fix it with calibration and then all of a sudden it bound and calibrated. I left it all on and then headed off to Q3.

In all it dropped out 4 or 5 times during the day but fortunately it was only Q2 that was missed. On the track there was certainly no problem, coming 2nd in the A final.

NOW today is the first time we have ever run with 208 – a red herring?

Loose connection – thinking about the vibration during a race and wondering how there was not an issue during racing if it were this.

Calibration is done with setting the throttle/brake epa back to 90%
KO transmitter and KO 2.4 module.
Have run this 2.4 for 18 months and never had a problem. Have run 203 since March and never had a problem. Could it be software or must it be hardware

Any ideas??