syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I solved SPX fade by putting a heat sink on it. Maybe try a fan on the Tekin's posts?

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I ran into the same thing InspGadgt. I was running a 6.5 with very mild timing/turbo settings in an RS Pro on a track with a 250 ft straight. The car had great speed for the first few minutes, and then it would fall off quick. It was most noticeable on the straight. I think it was going into default mode and running un-sensored. I did the sensor wires check with the dim leds but they were always being read. I tried two motors and 4 sensor wires but none fixed the problem. I could pull into pit lane and have someone pick up my car to look at it and I was still getting full throttle to the esc (all the leds were flashing) but turbo never kicked in. If I turned it off and waited a minute or two and went back out it would do the same thing; good for a minute and then it would go back to default. Motor was about 160 after 6 minutes and the esc was only flashing 4 leds. The aggravating thing to me was it took so long to walk down the two flights of stairs an d around to pit lane that sometimes by then everything was back to working properly..lol It took me a while to realize what was happening.

No one else was running a Tekin at the race though. The other drivers were running SPX 8's with 4.5's

InspGadgt

So what did you do?

FREAKAH

Like syndrOme i'd say it's heat build-up in the esc. It would seem to correlate with the summer heat since people are having problems with fade just recently. Maybe put a fan to it just to see if it cures the fade? I would'nt hurt. I'm going to mount one up too cause I have been experiencing brake fade recently.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

In my case, im not so sure its heat build up or fade. As i stated before, the RS had one LED for temp, and my x12 17.5 was barely 160 degrees. That 40mm fan did very well at keeping the motor cool.

My settings are fairly conservative. 20 on timing, and 14 on turbo with a ramp of 1? I cant see the RS struggling with this. Not to mention, turbo worked if i revved it free air. If i dropped it on the track... no turbo. It worked fine all day long till the main. I even discharged the pack i ran in the main to see if i swapped in a partially charged battery. Nay. I barely used a 1/3 of the batteries capacity!

Im wondering if it has something to do with the software being flashed to the hardware. I mean, we all know the RS can be finicky when it comes to updating it, and making sure it stores changes. The speedo i had the problems with had to have the software rolled back to 198 and then to 203 before it would stop auto checking the 1s box.

I dunno, but i have my new RS and a freshly rebuilt 17.5 for this weekend. Hopefully the problem wont present itself again. With 3 weeks worth of turnaround, you lose A LOT of stick time.

Fast XXXS

iTrader: (51)

I had these problems but with a 17.5. The same as DaveW. I found it was from the signal fluctuating and the esc not picking up full throttle. I set the throttle highpoint (on my Helios) to 90, calibrated the esc then put it back to 100. Solved the problem. Now i calibrate my speedy everytime i change the settings to make sure this doesnt happen again.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

I'd say the fade is because one of the following scenarios:

1) the ESC isn't seeing full throttle, as mentioned in the post above
2) the motor is getting hot and losing power. for some motors this can be at 160*!
3) the ESC may be getting too hot.

RTR canada

does anyone know a good setting for 13.5 speed passion 3.0 motor?? and witch of the settings is for torque? Thanks

InspGadgt

Did that...didn't fix it

InspGadgt

That's what I was thinking...already been through 1 and 2...and last race turned my ESC so the posts would get more air...that didn't seem to help either.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

To keep from confusion, i have borrowed two separate RS's since my RS was in for repair. The first borrowed RS gave me NO issues. Worked like a charm and made me instantly love the speedo. The second borrowed RS is the one that gave me the current issues...

Another local suggested the same thing after my run. He asked how i set my throttle/brake endpoints and i told him i set them both at 125% to calibrate the RS. Brake usually gets turned down to the low 80's during use. He suggested settings as you just did, but havent been back to the track yet to try them.

I used these settings because they are basically my 'defaults' for any speedo i have used over the years. It allows me to compare speedos based on previously known parameters. If i wanted to stay close to that, then wouldnt turning it up to 135% after calibration at 125% be the same? I would hate having to cram all that throttle response into 90% of throw.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

My motor in question is the same LRP x12 17.5 i used on a KO BMC 1.5 speedo. It hit temps in excess of 200 degrees without fade on that speedo. In my case, 160 aint crap. lol

Admittedly i hated smelling the motor coming off the track after a run, but it was the only way i could get that thing close to pace. I would still get yanked on the straight, but could make it up in the infield.

I have a spare rotor for that motor, ill compare the two and see if that one finally gave out...

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

You will not notice the different in the throw. Give that a try.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

OK. Ill post up my findings...

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

try this

http://philhoggartracing.webs.com/Te...-RS-SP13.5.pdf

this is what i use on our large outdoor track , with a 70m straight

PLEASE NOTE 0 turbo delay