MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

Out of curiosity do you have a DSM1 module or a DX3r/s? I am switching back to spectrum from futaba and my friend told me to bind the receivers while holding brake on the radio, this will failsafe to neutral.

pakk

iTrader: (80)

That will fail safe to brake. With spektrum's, what ever state your radio is in while binding is what your RX will fail safe to when signal is lost.

warnos

iTrader: (11)

I have the pro module in a Sanwa.

I have binded it so that it will go to brake.. the problem is the car is loosing power to the RX when the throttle is on.. since there is no power to the RX then it does not go to fail safe.. the tekin just keeps on the throttle.. happened probably 5 times now where its stayed wide open throttle no steering or braking just into a fence or barrier.

Cheers

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

Today I tried LRP X12 10.5 with RS. The setup in my RS was still the one I used for 17.5 (boost: 40, turbo:15, start rpm:2300, end rpm:8000). For the first few triggers, I could feel the boost kick in and turbo been activated when full throttle applied. But after about 10 times of triggers, the turbo was gone, it looked like the extra timing from the turbo was spread out into the whole rpm, and the motor became a bit hot just after a minute (120 degree). Because LRP says don't use any advanced timing esc with X12 motors, I thought that was motor's problem. So, I took my X12 out and put Novak 8.5 in, same problem happened again, the boost and turbo worked and then the turbo was gone. Has anyone experienced this kind of problem? Since LRP doesn't like people use other esc with their motor, do you guys use the same setup in your RS when using LRP X12 motors?

JR007

Complete wrong setup for low turn motors mate. You're cooking it from the insside out. Much higher end RPM, less or no turbo

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

You may be right, but on Tekin website, one guy also used similar setup for Redline 10.5 and his motor was warm. Besides, my RS seemed to lose turbo function after few triggers

HarryLeach

05forfun,

I'm using the same Tekin setup we were using indoors on 17.5 outdoors with 10.5, with close to the same FDR we ran indoor 17.5, and my motor runs nice and cool. That's 7.1 for 17.5 indoors, and 6.0 for 10.5 outdoors.

That said, your RPM range is too tight, and too low. Bump your start up to around 6000, and your end RPM around 16000. I'm not familiar with the x12 motors, so you may need to cut down on some of your boost as well.

mok

iTrader: (9)

rpm settings revert back to their defaults of around 3800-4500rpm for me..
its never any other setting, only the start/end rpm figures.

what i ALWAYS do is save the settings, click the "show defaults" button and then the "current settings" button before closing hotwire and unplugging esc..

it happens to me maybe 1 in 10 times i update settings..
other racers at my club also use the RS-Pro and v203 and have this issue too.


on a side note regarding brakes...

is the poor brakes issue solely software or is there a hardware issue too?
i've seen a number of rs-pro escs with different levels of brakes..
we've changed motors, re-calibrated and reverted software versions in every order possible to no avail..
some escs just seem to have good brakes, others mediocre and some almost non-existant.

-Mark

ps. when are we gonna see better brakes software-wise? will it come with v208?

vassago

With the x12 10.5 / 13.5 it is a good idea to use the timing insert with the least timing and time with the ESC.
(IIRC the 4 dot timing insert)

Otherwise the motor will get very hot indeed.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

the point is that i have probably run more speedos through my hotwire then most here and also i ran v203 functionality way before general release.

I am not sure what I am doing different, but as I said, I have never seen the reset to default rpm range or changing rpm range. I can tell you that I always run hotwire on a full size laptop and in windows 7. also i use the usb cable that came with my hotwire and nothing else. when we were at vegas, Randy and I found a wierdness when running though a usb hub. so not the hotwire is always plug directly into my laptop.

alangking_306

iTrader: (5)

hi guys just need a advice if anyone know what (t) spur and pinion for cyclone tc fdr 6 thanks guys

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

I have found that if you are not very deliberate in clicking your selections when changing the RPM range, it will either select the wrong value or revert to the default. I definitely triple check that it took the settings whenever I change mine. One of our locals cooked her motor on Saturday because it had reverted to the default RPM range.

I am looking forward to the new GUI for the hotwire software.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

this happened to my friend 2 weeks ago, a spek std module in a M11, he changed the module and it seems to have gone away.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

www.gearchart.com

DrBen

Whilst I understand that boost and turbo is not available in "dual" mode, Im a bit surprised that the values "current control" and "timing advance" are not available in "sensored".

What happens when I switch to "dual", change the setting for "current" or "timing" and switch back to "sensored".
Will the changes have an effect?
I want a current limit in "sensored".

And about the value ranges itself: I dont understand why "current control" and "timing advance" have such a limited range:
- Why is timing only positive? I would rather like to retard my (factory 30*) motor with the ESC than by touching the can.
- Why is current limit only up to 100? I guess the value represent Ampere. How dont have to look long to find a pack that can deliver 200A or more.