Tekin RS ESC sensored
06-28-2009, 12:57 PM
#4546
Tech Master
06-28-2009, 03:35 PM
#4547
Tech Master
Well, had my first race meet with my TA-05 and the Tekin RS with a Novak 13.5 motor. It was fantastic, the whole day went without a glitch!
I played with the settings on the ESC throughout the day as the track was slippery as ice to begin with (literally, outdoor asphalt with ambient air temp of about 5 degrees!), but got a bit grippier as the sun came out.
I managed to win all 3 races which was fantastic for a debut. Being able to get the power to the ground in control was the key, others were spinning out with their go-stop ESC settings
Great gear. I'm the only one at the club with one, but others are looking closely now
I played with the settings on the ESC throughout the day as the track was slippery as ice to begin with (literally, outdoor asphalt with ambient air temp of about 5 degrees!), but got a bit grippier as the sun came out.
I managed to win all 3 races which was fantastic for a debut. Being able to get the power to the ground in control was the key, others were spinning out with their go-stop ESC settings
Great gear. I'm the only one at the club with one, but others are looking closely now
06-28-2009, 08:56 PM
#4549
Tech Rookie
So how did v199 work during the races this weekend? Is is good enough to release to the waiting public??? 
06-28-2009, 08:58 PM
#4550
Need help with my new Tekin RS:
I have two cars, an RS pro in my sedan, and an RS in my WGT. I am using a 3pk with 603fs receivers (the dual antenna ones). I have been running my TC for a couple months with 0 issues. Last week I got my WGT running with a new RS, and I am having major issues.... ill do my best to explain.
When I turn on my 3PK then my car (rs switch and booster switch), my speedo just sits there with the right 3 leds blinking away. I have steering but no throttle. The manual says that it means it is seeing too high of a signal (
whatever that means) and that something might be out of range. So... I do a "model reset" on my radio and VUALA... the speedo does a boot sequence, blips and beeps, and I am off.
Now, if I turn off my car and radio, and turn them right back on.... 3 blinking LEDs and no throttle. In short, I have to do a model reset EVERY time I turn the car and radio on, which is of course a major pain in the azz.
In the meantime, Ill run my TC in the very next race and have no issues whatsoever. I turn on the radio, fire up the eSC switch, and im racing.
Is something wrong with the new RS in my WGT? Thanks for any help you can provide.
Cpt.
I have two cars, an RS pro in my sedan, and an RS in my WGT. I am using a 3pk with 603fs receivers (the dual antenna ones). I have been running my TC for a couple months with 0 issues. Last week I got my WGT running with a new RS, and I am having major issues.... ill do my best to explain.
When I turn on my 3PK then my car (rs switch and booster switch), my speedo just sits there with the right 3 leds blinking away. I have steering but no throttle. The manual says that it means it is seeing too high of a signal (
whatever that means) and that something might be out of range. So... I do a "model reset" on my radio and VUALA... the speedo does a boot sequence, blips and beeps, and I am off. Now, if I turn off my car and radio, and turn them right back on.... 3 blinking LEDs and no throttle. In short, I have to do a model reset EVERY time I turn the car and radio on, which is of course a major pain in the azz.
In the meantime, Ill run my TC in the very next race and have no issues whatsoever. I turn on the radio, fire up the eSC switch, and im racing.
Is something wrong with the new RS in my WGT? Thanks for any help you can provide.
Cpt.
06-28-2009, 09:11 PM
#4551
is the NW set the same in each speedo? Even if they aren't, maybe you should try increasing the NW on the WGT to a rediculous amount just to see if that is the issue. I maybe mistaken, but I remember reading the 3pk needs more NW than most radios.
--pakk
--pakk
06-28-2009, 09:42 PM
#4552
Hi Cpt.,
didn't realize you were having this problem today, I was running at FW. I am running the RS's with 1s lipo in both 1/12th and WGT, didn't run today as I was helping Jake get his WGT running properly and I only ran 13.5 TC. Catch up with me and we can figure out what's up. Sounds like it could be booster not getting proper power to the speedo electronics, so it act this way, kills motor output, because the RS prioritizes power to receiver first when voltage gets below the threshold it sees going into the electronics. Its a safeguard. Anyway, if your booster has a bad connection or not working properly, (is it the Novak Smartboost? I had a problem with the smartboost as it has a slightly high cutoff voltage which can kick in under high motor load near end of run on 1s lipo pack or if it is a new pack, they take a few runs to break-in it seems). This can also happen if a receiver pack gets low, if you run that instead of a booster, this can also cause this safeguard to kick in.
The low voltage safeguard sounds like your issue maybe. Did your transponder work, was the light on it bright?
Do try the NW setting, as Pakk is correct that the 3Pk has been noted to have this issue with neutral width setting on the RS. Worth a try also.
-Alex
didn't realize you were having this problem today, I was running at FW. I am running the RS's with 1s lipo in both 1/12th and WGT, didn't run today as I was helping Jake get his WGT running properly and I only ran 13.5 TC. Catch up with me and we can figure out what's up. Sounds like it could be booster not getting proper power to the speedo electronics, so it act this way, kills motor output, because the RS prioritizes power to receiver first when voltage gets below the threshold it sees going into the electronics. Its a safeguard. Anyway, if your booster has a bad connection or not working properly, (is it the Novak Smartboost? I had a problem with the smartboost as it has a slightly high cutoff voltage which can kick in under high motor load near end of run on 1s lipo pack or if it is a new pack, they take a few runs to break-in it seems). This can also happen if a receiver pack gets low, if you run that instead of a booster, this can also cause this safeguard to kick in.
The low voltage safeguard sounds like your issue maybe. Did your transponder work, was the light on it bright?
Do try the NW setting, as Pakk is correct that the 3Pk has been noted to have this issue with neutral width setting on the RS. Worth a try also.
-Alex
Last edited by oldrcr; 06-28-2009 at 10:31 PM.
06-28-2009, 10:49 PM
#4553
brake issue
This goes to the people with brake issues.
I just picked up my first 40c battery. It is an smc 5200 40c. My brakes are noticeably stronger. By a larger margin. But to be honest with you, my brakes always felt fine to me before. I run 17.5 with a one way and rarely use my brakes.
But it was the first thing I noticed the second I hit the brakes with this battery. Before this, my strongest battery was the smc 5000 28c. I don't know if this helps or not.
--pakk
I just picked up my first 40c battery. It is an smc 5200 40c. My brakes are noticeably stronger. By a larger margin. But to be honest with you, my brakes always felt fine to me before. I run 17.5 with a one way and rarely use my brakes.
But it was the first thing I noticed the second I hit the brakes with this battery. Before this, my strongest battery was the smc 5000 28c. I don't know if this helps or not.
--pakk
06-28-2009, 11:11 PM
#4554
Need help with my new Tekin RS:
Now, if I turn off my car and radio, and turn them right back on.... 3 blinking LEDs and no throttle. In short, I have to do a model reset EVERY time I turn the car and radio on, which is of course a major pain in the azz.
In the meantime, Ill run my TC in the very next race and have no issues whatsoever. I turn on the radio, fire up the eSC switch, and im racing.
Is something wrong with the new RS in my WGT? Thanks for any help you can provide.
Cpt.
Now, if I turn off my car and radio, and turn them right back on.... 3 blinking LEDs and no throttle. In short, I have to do a model reset EVERY time I turn the car and radio on, which is of course a major pain in the azz.
In the meantime, Ill run my TC in the very next race and have no issues whatsoever. I turn on the radio, fire up the eSC switch, and im racing.
Is something wrong with the new RS in my WGT? Thanks for any help you can provide.
Cpt.
My suggestion to you is to look at your throttle settings on your radio. If I understand you correctly one car works, one car doesn't but you are using the same radio for both, correct? You just change profiles within your transmitter.
Check your throttle high points on both profiles. Sometimes the default settings could be different from what you put on the working TC profile. Heck I would look at all the settings on the transmitter and see why one profile works for you and the other doesn't. To me it sounds like both speedos are working correctly, its just that you need to find out what settings will work for the 3PK. Like others have said there is something about the 3PK that is hard to setup properly with certain other electronic items.
Steve
06-29-2009, 12:17 AM
#4555
I ran our national event with the 199 software.
There is a noticeable difference in performance and i definately think my motor ran cooler all the time. My motor never went over 130 deg/f. Yes it was rather cool outside around 18 - 20 deg/c but no issues at all.
Esc only showed 1 led for temp.
Only niggle for me was figuring out which way to gear.
The norm being gear up a tooth or two.
In my case i should have gone down a tooth as the car was still accellerating at the end of the back straight.
The punch was great and mid range really strong.
Still have weak brakes but the drag brakes helped.
Will swap out motor and see if brakes get better.
Running with a SP 13.5 my RS Pro was set as follows :
Drag Brake = 45
Brake strength = 99
Neutral width =40
Throttle Profile = 5
Timing Boost = 16
Turbo = max
Time delay = .5 seconds
sensored mode.
Motor that i used is a Speedpassion 13.5
Timing on the motor 12
Lipo
4.18 FDR - 46mm roll out.
About 50m long straight.
Helped out two of my Team mates and they definately also improved.
Sure the software will be available shortly for all to benefit from
First time we used the software we got the fault window with "out of range" or similar warning but after that it never popped up again.
There is a noticeable difference in performance and i definately think my motor ran cooler all the time. My motor never went over 130 deg/f. Yes it was rather cool outside around 18 - 20 deg/c but no issues at all.
Esc only showed 1 led for temp.
Only niggle for me was figuring out which way to gear.
The norm being gear up a tooth or two.
In my case i should have gone down a tooth as the car was still accellerating at the end of the back straight.
The punch was great and mid range really strong.
Still have weak brakes but the drag brakes helped.
Will swap out motor and see if brakes get better.
Running with a SP 13.5 my RS Pro was set as follows :
Drag Brake = 45
Brake strength = 99
Neutral width =40
Throttle Profile = 5
Timing Boost = 16
Turbo = max
Time delay = .5 seconds
sensored mode.
Motor that i used is a Speedpassion 13.5
Timing on the motor 12
Lipo
4.18 FDR - 46mm roll out.
About 50m long straight.
Helped out two of my Team mates and they definately also improved.
Sure the software will be available shortly for all to benefit from
First time we used the software we got the fault window with "out of range" or similar warning but after that it never popped up again.
06-29-2009, 01:11 AM
#4556
This goes to the people with brake issues.
I just picked up my first 40c battery. It is an smc 5200 40c. My brakes are noticeably stronger. By a larger margin. But to be honest with you, my brakes always felt fine to me before. I run 17.5 with a one way and rarely use my brakes.
But it was the first thing I noticed the second I hit the brakes with this battery. Before this, my strongest battery was the smc 5000 28c. I don't know if this helps or not.
--pakk
I just picked up my first 40c battery. It is an smc 5200 40c. My brakes are noticeably stronger. By a larger margin. But to be honest with you, my brakes always felt fine to me before. I run 17.5 with a one way and rarely use my brakes.
But it was the first thing I noticed the second I hit the brakes with this battery. Before this, my strongest battery was the smc 5000 28c. I don't know if this helps or not.
--pakk
The RS and RS Pro use the same software. We're looking into the large track issues where brakes seem to be lacking.
...
I would still appreciate everyone having a braking issue to send me a screen shot, your radio being used, gearing, battery power, motor being used(wind and brand). We can fix anything we need to. I just need to make sure I get the same setup as you're running so I can test/verify the concern.
Thanks guys.
...
I would still appreciate everyone having a braking issue to send me a screen shot, your radio being used, gearing, battery power, motor being used(wind and brand). We can fix anything we need to. I just need to make sure I get the same setup as you're running so I can test/verify the concern.
Thanks guys.
Cheers
06-29-2009, 04:44 AM
#4557
Hi guys put a brand new rs pro in my car today to see if it was my speedy giving me the problem with no brakes and it was no change from the old rs pro tryed every set up on speedy and control with no change with 17.5 10.5 4.5 still no brakes then i put a lrp spx in and tryed it with 17.5 and 10.5 and the brakes where strong and try the lrp sxx with mod and it was strong as well so it might be a communication problem with the rs pro speedy and 4pk control.
regards clinton
regards clinton
06-29-2009, 06:17 AM
#4558
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Yep - I think we all agree that the brakes on the Tekin RS/RS Pro are weak for some reason compared to several other brands of ESC's.
In my WGT car, I use a Tekin 13.5 motor with an LRP SPX, and the car brakes very well when needed, but the same motor in my 200 gram lighter 1/12 car with the Tekin RS speedo, and I have virtually no brakes. Both cars are using an SMC 1-cell battery with a Novak Booster.
In my WGT car, I use a Tekin 13.5 motor with an LRP SPX, and the car brakes very well when needed, but the same motor in my 200 gram lighter 1/12 car with the Tekin RS speedo, and I have virtually no brakes. Both cars are using an SMC 1-cell battery with a Novak Booster.
06-29-2009, 06:24 AM
#4559
There were some posts a few pages back about the ESC feeling soft on the bottom, and giving the feeling that it lacks punch. This has always been my biggest gripe as well. Is that something that can be addressed in software rather than radio voodoo?
06-29-2009, 07:05 AM
#4560
Tech Master
Need help with my new Tekin RS:
I have two cars, an RS pro in my sedan, and an RS in my WGT. I am using a 3pk with 603fs receivers (the dual antenna ones). I have been running my TC for a couple months with 0 issues. Last week I got my WGT running with a new RS, and I am having major issues.... ill do my best to explain.
When I turn on my 3PK then my car (rs switch and booster switch), my speedo just sits there with the right 3 leds blinking away. I have steering but no throttle. The manual says that it means it is seeing too high of a signal ( whatever that means) and that something might be out of range. So... I do a "model reset" on my radio and VUALA... the speedo does a boot sequence, blips and beeps, and I am off.
Now, if I turn off my car and radio, and turn them right back on.... 3 blinking LEDs and no throttle. In short, I have to do a model reset EVERY time I turn the car and radio on, which is of course a major pain in the azz.
In the meantime, Ill run my TC in the very next race and have no issues whatsoever. I turn on the radio, fire up the eSC switch, and im racing.
Is something wrong with the new RS in my WGT? Thanks for any help you can provide.
Cpt.
I have two cars, an RS pro in my sedan, and an RS in my WGT. I am using a 3pk with 603fs receivers (the dual antenna ones). I have been running my TC for a couple months with 0 issues. Last week I got my WGT running with a new RS, and I am having major issues.... ill do my best to explain.
When I turn on my 3PK then my car (rs switch and booster switch), my speedo just sits there with the right 3 leds blinking away. I have steering but no throttle. The manual says that it means it is seeing too high of a signal (
whatever that means) and that something might be out of range. So... I do a "model reset" on my radio and VUALA... the speedo does a boot sequence, blips and beeps, and I am off. Now, if I turn off my car and radio, and turn them right back on.... 3 blinking LEDs and no throttle. In short, I have to do a model reset EVERY time I turn the car and radio on, which is of course a major pain in the azz.
In the meantime, Ill run my TC in the very next race and have no issues whatsoever. I turn on the radio, fire up the eSC switch, and im racing.
Is something wrong with the new RS in my WGT? Thanks for any help you can provide.
Cpt.