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Old 04-03-2009, 12:35 AM
  #3121  
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Originally Posted by pakk
I got a weird request. Anyone wanna sell me one solder post?

--pakk
Not sure why you'd need one solder post, but you'd be a lot better off having Tekin install it than if you tried to do it yourself.
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Old 04-03-2009, 01:05 AM
  #3122  
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I picked up a used one and the previous owner took the two batter solder posts off. He included one, but either forgot or lost the other post. I soldered one back in with no problem.

--pakk
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Old 04-03-2009, 01:11 AM
  #3123  
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Originally Posted by pakk
I picked up a used one and the previous owner took the two batter solder posts off. He included one, but either forgot or lost the other post. I soldered one back in with no problem.

--pakk
+1 with whats already been said, I would get that sent into Tekin for new solder post(s), as the factory solder is a very high melting point, so I suspect the solder you've used won't cut it, and will melt under high electrical load.
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Old 04-03-2009, 01:19 AM
  #3124  
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I'm sorry, but that just doesn't make sense. The factory solder may be a higher melting solder, but I am still going to do my own solder at the post. So if you are saying my solder from post to board is going to melt, why wouldn't the solder from post to wire melt? Am I missing something?

I have already emailed tekin requesting one post, if they send me one, great. If I have to send it in, I might just do that or I'll just leave it the way it is with the wires directly to the board.

The reason I made a request here was because I got an instant reply back saying they were out racing.
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Old 04-03-2009, 02:12 AM
  #3125  
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Hi pakk, yes it doesn't sound logical but I will let Randy or someone from engineering to confirm my thoughts, but i'll try explaining it myself.

If the solder used on the base of the posts was the same type that you use to solder the wires on, then the posts would come dis-jointed with the same heat you're using for that process.

Hopefully that explains it
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Old 04-03-2009, 02:28 AM
  #3126  
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Originally Posted by tc3team
If the solder used on the base of the posts was the same type that you use to solder the wires on, then the posts would come dis-jointed with the same heat you're using for that process.

Hopefully that explains it
That makes perfect sense, but this does not.


so I suspect the solder you've used won't cut it, and will melt under high electrical load.
AFAIK, the post are there for a convenience. They make soldering wires to a lot easier than soldering to a PCB. I have also read that they serve as a heat sink. I don't know how much heat they actually dissipate, just what I read. So if your saying that me soldering the post back in will melt, so will every other solder I do on this esc. PCB to post, post to wire, wire to motor, etc...

Unless the post dissipate a large amount of heat(or they server another function) they are just a convenience and theoretically can be removed if desired.

It seems team tekin is away racing right now, so we won't get a response from them for a few days unless they carry their laptops around checking the forums between heats.

but yeah, if someone removed their posts and don't need it. I'll take it from ya.

--pakk
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Old 04-03-2009, 02:41 AM
  #3127  
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Originally Posted by pakk
That makes perfect sense, but this does not.




AFAIK, the post are there for a convenience. They make soldering wires to a lot easier than soldering to a PCB. I have also read that they serve as a heat sink. I don't know how much heat they actually dissipate, just what I read. So if your saying that me soldering the post back in will melt, so will every other solder I do on this esc. PCB to post, post to wire, wire to motor, etc...

Unless the post dissipate a large amount of heat(or they server another function) they are just a convenience and theoretically can be removed if desired.

It seems team tekin is away racing right now, so we won't get a response from them for a few days unless they carry their laptops around checking the forums between heats.

but yeah, if someone removed their posts and don't need it. I'll take it from ya.

--pakk
In a way, you're confirming what's already on the table.

Yes, the posts act as a heat sink. So, when you heat up the post, naturally, the lower temperature solder melts first

Unless you hold the iron on the post for too long that is....

Then you could (and yes, it can happen) be dis-jointing the solder on the PCB end of the ESC.

Only even speaking as a team driver, I can tell you for sure you NEED the solder posts in situ, or you risk melting the ESC internals. (And this is the primary reason for having them, they filter the heat away from the ESC).

There are some very small components on those PCB's...
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Old 04-03-2009, 02:54 AM
  #3128  
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It is kinda hard for me to believe that these post get rid of enough heat to keep this esc from damage and I really hope you're wrong, but I am not going to find out for myself. I'll wait patiently for a definite answer.

Thanks for your help.

--pakk
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Old 04-03-2009, 02:58 AM
  #3129  
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Originally Posted by pakk
It is kinda hard for me to believe that these post get rid of enough heat to keep this esc from damage and I really hope you're wrong, but I am not going to find out for myself. I'll wait patiently for a definite answer.

Thanks for your help.

--pakk
Think of it more as a heat "barrier" than a way of possibly ruining the ESC by not using the posts and soldering directly onto the PCB.

I'll let engineering or Randy fine tune the specifics of the solder post question though.

You're welcome
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Old 04-03-2009, 03:30 AM
  #3130  
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Not sure if this is a silly question or not but here goes.
Will the receiver plug wear out/become loose with the plugging in and out of receiver/hotwire?
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Old 04-03-2009, 03:42 AM
  #3131  
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Originally Posted by stocker
Not sure if this is a silly question or not but here goes.
Will the receiver plug wear out/become loose with the plugging in and out of receiver/hotwire?
I havn't heard of any issues concerning this as of yet, so I would say the chances are very rare.

Being heavy handed and pulling with the wires is a big no no, as you'd stretch the insulation. Or even worse break / weaken the tiny guage 3 core wire.

The sockets that the reciever pins go into are pretty robust when enclosed in the black plug housing
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:17 AM
  #3132  
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Originally Posted by stocker
Not sure if this is a silly question or not but here goes.
Will the receiver plug wear out/become loose with the plugging in and out of receiver/hotwire?
I have Receivers and Servos 20 plus years old, and believe me they have been and are still bounced from car to car regularly, no issue at all with repetative plugging and unplugging receiver leads.
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Old 04-03-2009, 06:40 AM
  #3133  
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Originally Posted by reenmachine
What FDR? I'm guessing 4.2+.
Actually running an FDR of 4.9 since the local track was reconfigured and there's a ton of on-off throttle now.
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:41 AM
  #3134  
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach
Actually running an FDR of 4.9 since the local track was reconfigured and there's a ton of on-off throttle now.
Wow...I knew it would be 4.2+ but not that +++++! That explains your tire-squealing rip and low temps though.
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Old 04-03-2009, 09:04 AM
  #3135  
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Originally Posted by reenmachine
Wow...I knew it would be 4.2+ but not that +++++! That explains your tire-squealing rip and low temps though.
Running the 189 software at the same FDR, temps were around 170 and not as much tire spin.

I was surprised that I ended up at a such a high FDR, but it's what the motor wants, and I'm not giving up any top speed to anyone else, so I'll just roll with it.
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