M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Jcarr, what motor?

And for those asking for my setup: I will try and fill out a setup sheet today or tomorrow and post it up.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

OOOOOOPPPPPSSSS sorry bout that It's a Ballistic factory set timing at the N mark.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Which Ballistic motor? How many turns?

bukil

iTrader: (39)

Your NW is too high.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Man I am not with it this morning. 17.5.

BUKIL: I have been running that nw forever, I have set it down before and never noticed a difference. I remember reading a while back that Randy recommended it be set a bit higher to avoid some problems and that was the factory setting so I just left it there. I haven't tried dropping it with the new motor though and could always give it shot though. Thanks.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

try gearing up 2-3 teeth.

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

I thought about trying that thanks. That kinda leads me to another question though. My internal ratio come out to 2.0555555555 ect ect. When trying to figure out fdr should I use 2.06 or 2.05? I was usuing 2.05, but figure 2.06 whould be more correct. The fdr I put in my set up is from using 2.06. Sorry for the newbish question just ttoo much trying to figure all this out at once.

pakk

iTrader: (80)

It will make little to no difference. But yea, you should round it up to 2.06. What car has an internal of 2.055555555555555?

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Yeah i know it's small, but just wanted to be as accurate as i can. It a Tamiya 416 18t center pulley 37t diff = 2.055555555........ Sorry for the OT.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

First, the problem is NOT your neutral width... that is totally unrelated. But still, you could drop your NW down to 30. Here are the settings I would change to assuming you are running 0 degrees on the motor can:

FDR: closer to 6.0
Boost: 45
Start RPM: 3000-4000
End RPM: 10000-11000
Turbo: 10
Delay: .4

I think you have your RPM range set too high, and a tad too far apart. 3k-10k will be much better. Now, this is a more agressive setup, make sure you check your temps after 2 min, 3min, 4min, 5min, 6min, etc. You want to keep it from going over 150 if you can.

-brandon

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I also left out when I changed my timing I also changed the start and end rpms to 2437 and 7001. When i did that the temps actually came down a little and the lag was a little better, but was still noticable. From the responses I'm getting though my main fear is in vein as nobody has said I look over timed or too much too fast. i will try these settings out and see what happens. Thanks guys for all the suggestions.

pakk

iTrader: (80)

I would try two different things.

1. Turn the turbo up and delay to 0
2. lower your end rpm as already suggested and turn your delay up.

You could also turn your boost up. It is a bit conservative.

I run my car both ways I have suggested. It depends on the track. I like option 1 on short technical tracks and option 2 on big flowing tracks.

twk-b

iTrader: (1)

NW of 50+ is crazy, should be less then 15 max, i run mine at 5 no problems. running higher values is going to make the throttle an on/off switch, instead of giving you something linear.

JCarr, where are you for temps after your run? Assuming your down around 90-100F (which is what Im guessing your at with your settings)... For 17.5 your range should be about 100* your boost+turbo... so your window is very big...if you reduce it (by lowering the upper limit) the punch will come in faster...

assuming the temps are low, you problably wanna keep bumping up the boost and watching temps... with 0-10 timing on the motor you should be able to get to 50 boost and 10 timing no problem (range of 6000... say from 70XX-13000...

The boost/turbo is exponential, so 10 boost does very little, 20 boost does more then twice as much kind of thing.... With the 0 delay setup you have more control over when the turbo boost gets layered in, so you might want to play with that also (as other suggested).



-b

JCarr

iTrader: (2)

My temps were 140F and then when I upped the timing and shortened the rpm range it came down to 135F. I wanted to be on the conservative side of things so I didn't hurt the brand new motor. At these settings the top end is great, actually it's pulling long past where I need to let off to make the turn at the end of the straight. So I could do with a little less top end, but there is just this lag at the bottom that is killing me off any corner where I have to lift completely. It's like the car idles to a point and then takes off. It's not a violent take off or anything, but the just pulls real hard all of the sudden. Like it should right after I hit the throttle from the corner.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

You need more motor timing. Bump the ballistic up a couple notches on the motor and run it a couple minutes with esc settings around 40 boost with your original 4ishk start and 15k end. Check temps and then bump up another notch if temps are the same.