Originally Posted by Govert

Hi guys,

Just bought myself a Tekin RS PRO after 3 years using a LRP Sphere TC.
I find it a very impressive controller, especially the smoothness surprises me.

But there are a few problems;

I'm running 1/10 TC modified and I'm using a 4.5t Speed Passion (V2) motor on a large 1/8 scale open track. I used to do this with my LRP controller. After my run with the LRP the controller was cool/warm maximum 68F/30C, batteries warm/hot 104F/40C and my motor warm/hot 160F/70C. This was ok.

Now I'm using the Tekin RS PRO. I ran a smaller pinion than I was used to do with my LRP ESC, as this has been advised. Result: Lack of top speed and too much revs (like you would normally expect). A buddy of mine changed the settings using the Hotwire and increased timing boost to 5 and start RPM was near 5000 RPM. This didn't help much. To be honest wasn't planning to mess around with timing and turbo etc too much since it's modified.
Finally switched to a larger pinion and kept on going every few runs until I almost reached my normal top speed (I use this as an indicator). Still I would like to go up one more tooth (to reach my normal top speed), but temperatures tell me not to do that. I'm now running 1 tooth extra on my pinion than I would with my LRP!

Temperatures after running with the RS PRO:
Motor 122F/50C
Lipo 104F/40C
ESC 137F/58C

Motor and lipo are ok, but ESC is too hot. Almost all indicators lit up (can't remember how many). I have a high RPM cooling fan installed that is cooling the ESC solder post, but still the ESC is hot. I also changed the standard capacitor to a 16V 4700uF one.

Point is: My car lacks top speed and ESC gets too hot.

Other relevant settings V203:

Sensored mode
drag brake OFF
No reverse
brake strength 100
neutral width 10
th profile 3 (linear)
push control OFF
timing boost 5


Could it be a faulty ESC?
Do I have to use dual mode maybe?
Am I doing something terribly wrong?

Hope you guys can help me out...

Originally Posted by 2wdrive

Govert,

Does the air of the fan go through and over the posts? When the fan is too close the air won't run effeciently over and through the posts. When i had my 4.5t novak in my pro10 i had a 25mm fan at an angle blowing towards the posts so the air would go over and go sideways through the posts. I had no more then 3-4 lights lid up while doing that.

My experience with dual mode isn't good. It was too slow when it went into sensorles mode. I ran the old software with 8 or 9 timing boost. That is it. No turbo. With the old software i read that the timing boost got in at the 4000 rpm range what i remember at least from reading on here and the end rpm range was also very close to the start rpm ( it was fixed so you could not change the rpm settings).

You describing your top speed was too slow but how was the acceleration? was that also too slow or was that good?

Your motor seems to be cool, what was your end rpm? Also check dual mode to see if current limmit is set to 100%. Current limit in dual mode is carried over in sensord mode.


For modified setups you might want to look into the mamba max pro thread. The rpm settings etc and other basics are pretty much the same except the mamba doesn't have an extra turbo function (wich you might not whant to use in mod). They are talking about start 10.000 and end rpm of 30.000 with 10 degrees or more of timing with a 5.5t brushless. You could maybe copy something and try it out with conservative gearing AND WATCH MOTOR TEMP EVERY 1 OR 2 MINUTES

Originally Posted by Govert

Thanks for your reply Alex.
My RS is installed with solder posts pointing backwards, towards the motor. Just between the motor and RS a installed a fan blowing air to the solderpoints. The fan is slightly angled towards one side.
But I might have to reconsider the position of the ESC and fan.

Acceleration was good, nothing to complain about (-33% on my throttle expo). No matter what gearing I use, the Speed Passion motor supplies me with lots of torque in any situation. So that is OK.

Current limit has been switched off from the beginning. I must say I haven't used the dual mode yet. I believe my end rpm was 10000??? or something like that.

But my point is, the ESC SHOULD perform the same way like my 3 years old LRP Sphere, or even better, since it has a much lower internal resistance and updated hardware.
So even without all these 'tricks' like timing, turbo boost, dual mode etc. the ESC should perform the same as/better than a Sphere TC in sensored mode...Or am I missing a point?

Gonna do some reading on the Castle Creations website...But doesn't anybody from Tekin know what should be my point point of attention?

Originally Posted by Govert

Hi guys,

Just bought myself a Tekin RS PRO after 3 years using a LRP Sphere TC.
I find it a very impressive controller, especially the smoothness surprises me.

But there are a few problems;

I'm running 1/10 TC modified and I'm using a 4.5t Speed Passion (V2) motor on a large 1/8 scale open track. I used to do this with my LRP controller. After my run with the LRP the controller was cool/warm maximum 68F/30C, batteries warm/hot 104F/40C and my motor warm/hot 160F/70C. This was ok.

Now I'm using the Tekin RS PRO. I ran a smaller pinion than I was used to do with my LRP ESC, as this has been advised. Result: Lack of top speed and too much revs (like you would normally expect). A buddy of mine changed the settings using the Hotwire and increased timing boost to 5 and start RPM was near 5000 RPM. This didn't help much. To be honest wasn't planning to mess around with timing and turbo etc too much since it's modified.
Finally switched to a larger pinion and kept on going every few runs until I almost reached my normal top speed (I use this as an indicator). Still I would like to go up one more tooth (to reach my normal top speed), but temperatures tell me not to do that. I'm now running 1 tooth extra on my pinion than I would with my LRP!

Temperatures after running with the RS PRO:
Motor 122F/50C
Lipo 104F/40C
ESC 137F/58C

Motor and lipo are ok, but ESC is too hot. Almost all indicators lit up (can't remember how many). I have a high RPM cooling fan installed that is cooling the ESC solder post, but still the ESC is hot. I also changed the standard capacitor to a 16V 4700uF one.

Point is: My car lacks top speed and ESC gets too hot.

Other relevant settings V203:

Sensored mode
drag brake OFF
No reverse
brake strength 100
neutral width 10
th profile 3 (linear)
push control OFF
timing boost 5


Could it be a faulty ESC?
Do I have to use dual mode maybe?
Am I doing something terribly wrong?

Hope you guys can help me out...

Originally Posted by 2wdrive

It should indeed outperform an old esc but it all depends on the setup. When the optimum of rollout or fdr together with timing is not achieved then even though it is a new esc your setup will still be wrong. With the adjustability of the esc nowadays there are more ways leading to Rome. But also you can get lost quite easily with all the adjustments as well.

As your acceleration is good even with more teeth then your old setup i expect you could use a little more timing. With the setup you have now the timing of the esc is going in when the motor reaches 5.000 rpm end and ends when it reaches 10.000 and then accelerates further with the availlable timing.

So those 5 degrees of timing (on top of your motor timing) are spread over 5.000 rpm's wich is 1 degree for every 1.000 rpm's. As you say your acceleration is good except top speed isn't i would try the following.

If you would have 10 boost with 5.000 start and 15.000 end. The timing will be 1 degrees every 1000 rpms as well, except it will be spread longer with some more timing to get the motor spin harder at the end. This should produces more rpm's on the straight with the same torque at the beginning. As your motor isn't hot now it is something to try to see if it produces more rpm's down the straight. (i would go back 1 teeth on the pinion to be sure and temp the motor as always).

In the mamba thread they put some timing on the motor and use some higher start rpm and end rpm.

Originally Posted by eded1

Hi Govert.
Yes you do something wrong.
You have to learn this thing,this will take some time.
Because you used the TC spec you set a punch level this punch level
is related to a surten preset of the timing in to the ESC.
When did you run on the track?

For Mod motors with v.203 Vegas
Turbo must be OFF
Timing Boost begin with 35( you must have an outcome of 26.5degr.)
Timing Boost at 40 to 42 shoot give the same speed as the TC spec.
Start rpm 8900 End 22000(dont set it to low for 4t to 6.5t you get a kind of coggin, because the boost wil start to early)
Start with a similar pinion as with the TC spec speedo increase the timing
boost if temp is not alarming high if the speed ok try then a tooth less on your pinion and add some timing boost play with this a litlle to get your own custom setting.
Motor timing preset at zero or add 1 to 2 degr. to start with.
This is my setting with 4.0t motor

GOOD LUCK
I'll be at the track at (woensdag)
Ed

Originally Posted by eded1

There are not to much setting for mod most of the drivers trying to reach the mod speed with the high turns motors and I must say they do fine so far, but i've heard is that they cook the motors a lot.

Ed

Originally Posted by Senna Racing

No what wireing are you using I would go with what you see
in figure 8


Then make sure that the speedi is set brushed mode

Which can be done with or with out the hot wire

But you my just need to calibration the radio

Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE

i could be off alittle on my setting as i was working on 5-6 esc setups and was getting a little lost on what my own where
17.5 TC
fdr 6.5
motor 12
timing boost 52
turbo 7
delay .4
ramp 2
start 3xxx
end 14500

17.5 TC
fdr 6.5
motor 15
timing boost 50
turbo 7
ramp 2
start 4xxx
end 15500

17.5 needs a little bottom snap and try gearing ran in the main worked as good second setup with more straightaway speed
fdr 6.5
motor 18
timing boost 50
turbo 10
start 5xxx
end 16500
all with 0.4 delay

13.5 1/12
fdr 37/87 full BSR tire (62.xx roll out i think)
motor 12
timing boost 50
start 3xxx
end 8000
turbo 6
delay .4
ramp 2
moderate to low temp i only got to run for practice i had issue's and ran TC but it was very fast

Originally Posted by clparsons123

with all the touring car setups you posted i would change the delay to a lower number. you will receive more punch or change the rpm. i believe your rpm are way to high for 17.5 but that is my opinion