chris_dono

Out of interest, what makes the RC Dynamics booster better than the TQ one ?

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

TJ are going to adrenaline on the 21st

TrevCoult

Well for me the TQ booster didn't work properly and the RC Dynamics one did! I was getting missed PT laps and a chattering servo with the TQ. Perfect with the RC Dynamics. Others have had no problem with the TQ.

The biggest advantage of the RC Dynamics booster though is it supplies a true 6 volts and can keep up with the current requirements when others can't. Extremely high quality components throughout too. That and it has a built in switch which makes for a much neater installation. Downside is the RC Dynamics one costs more.

Trev

TrevCoult

Can't say for sure without actually looking at your actual car, but it could be the Novak cutout going on and off when the motor is running and that may not give LED errors. It is a guess though.

Easiest test for it is to borrow an LiFe Rx pack and try that if you can. If it works with that it is the booster.

Trev

billythekid

iTrader: (9)

I got a RS Pro with 17.5T motor combo for sale. Let me know if you are interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...in-rs-pro.html

Bobinmt

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone distribute the RC Dynamics booster in the US?
Thanks,
Bob

TrevCoult

No, it can only be bought direct at the moment. Look at http://www.rcdynamics.co.uk/Products.html for ordering details.

Trev

Stephtruc

anyone ?

mikky32

Boost 50
Turbo 10
Turbo delay 0
Turbo ramp 3
Motor timing 5 to 10. Start with 5 and watch the motor temp.
Start RPM 5000+
End RPM 20000
Gearing 8.0 - 8,4FDR

gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

Does this mean that the voltage cutoff should be set under 3.7 Volts? If so, what should it be set at? I had the same problem and I replaced the booster with a lipo rx pack but still having issues, but not as much as with booster.

razzor

the cutoff set at 3.7v is far too high. reduce it to 3 or 3.2v.

TrevCoult

Basically, yes. The voltage drop when you open the throttle can easily make the voltage go below 3.7 volts. I, and most others I know run with no cutoff at all, even with 10.5 as there is practically no chance of dumping unless running mod. If you want the security of a cutoff though I think it really needs to be somewhere between 3.0 and 3.3 volts. Definitely don't make it any lower than 3.0 volts though, that's if there's a cutoff on the market that will let you!

Trev

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

i am not sure that this is true. with some of the more aggressive setup for 13.5 1s I have seen usage of 3400 to 3800mah. on my 1s 5000 pack, discharge at 30amps, only gives me 505sec. an 8 min race is 480 sec for that is only 25sec at 30amps. or just over 200mah to spare.

but I am with ya Trev. i do not run a lipo cut off as well. with the current we are pulling from the batts you can easily see less then 3.2v at the batt. a linear discharge on my turbo gave be voltage down to 3.2v at 480sec at 30amps

benben10

i made a thread on the tekin forums that has gone unanswered so i will ask here. will a 2nd capacitor help cool the ESC when running the redline sensored 2.5 (using 4-cell nimh)?

looking at this picture of the tekin capacitor
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=TEKTT3520
the number on the end (PS793 i think) is different than the number on my cap (PS7N5). Is it still the right one or should I PM randy to have him send me some?

TrevCoult

I know what you mean Yang, the more aggressive drivers can get close, but I've yet to see one actually dump! I'm quite mild on the pack myself (take that as not fast enough!) and have never taken more than 3400 out with a 10.5.

If we really are pulling the voltage down to below 3.2 volts a Novak booster has no chance!

Trev