razzor

locally we started running 13.5 and 17.5 in the same class ie: superstock.
13.5 runs a 100grams heavier.
I ran a sp 17.5 with the rest of the guys running 13.5 and i managed to qualify 2nd.
In the final i was 3rd but unfortunately i forgot to put in a transponder
The new software is absolutely awesome !!


Ran on a 47mm rollout

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Tested some different settings, gear ratios, etc at my local track yesterday. As listed a few pages back, watch it when you are readjusting the start/end rpm range settings. At one point, I changed mine to 13000 start/2900 end and double checked it before putting the car on the track. Car ran fine for about three laps and then started running a little sluggish for about two laps. Pulled the car and checked my setting and the start/end rpm range reset itself to 4500 start/3507 end. This is what happened to me about three weeks ago and caused me to burn up a brand new Checkpoint 17.5. So, I will stress to everyone to double/triple check your settings before putting your car on the track, only running a few laps (3 to 7) and check your settings again. This could save you from frying a motor.

I am currently running a Novak 17.5 Ballistic in my Cyclone TC. I retarded the timing one hash mark below neutral. I dropped two teeth on the pinion and added one tooth on the spur. I did some slight bumps to my turbo and timing boost and played with my rpm setting a little. The motor for the longest time did not get to 100 F degrees and was off about 0.5 to 1.5 sec from previous running lap times. For my track, I ended up going up one tooth on the spur and putting my start/end rpm range back where it was and rolling back the turbo and timing boost a little and not only got my lap times back to where they were but my motor temps did not go above 125 F degrees. That is about 10 to 15 F degrees cooler than it was when I was running the motor can timing at neutral with similar setting and gearing.

So, for you guys that are having issues with motor temps, don't be afraid to retard the timing on the can. With the capability of making adjustments on the ESC, you will be able to maintain your speed while running at some slightly cooler temps. Just my $0.02.

morris

iTrader: (44)

randy pike,
so what is your suggestion on what to do.
cars are amazing for like 2 minutes of the race and then it feels as if there is no longer turbo.what should we do to fix this?
motor is coming of at 147 degrees.

morris

iTrader: (44)

i dont have the laptop in front of me but i think my settings are.

timing was at 50
turbo at 13
dlay at 0.2
throttle profile at 4
ramp at 3


i turned the turbo down to 10 and timing to 40..it was smooth the whole 6 minutes.but i also was loosing time off my laps.

oh and the temps still came off at 147 degrees using both settings.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

if you feal the car lost turbo stop grab it check the temps and pull full throttle to see if turbo is kicking in if not add to the end point right then to see if it come back then throw it back on the track and see if it stayed

morris

iTrader: (44)

i did do these things except for adding to the endpoint.no turbo was there.temp was 147 degrees.i turned the car off.maybe like a minute went by and i checked it again.you can vivsibly here the turbo working.as it was not after the race.should i still do the recalibrating with the epa to say 90% then turn it back up to 100&?

Jeremy Otis

EA

You have a PM

Thanks

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

When using push control, should drag brake be set to 0?

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

Yes, they are equal but opposite adjustments from a conceptual perspective. If the programmers at Tekin need another project, I'd like to have control over drag and push to the extent that amplitude and duration can be adjusted independently of one another.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

i think if people are having problems with the rpm range concept, that your suggestion would completely blow their brains. lol

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

I don't care for the 3.0 ramp rate and the .2 delay for your turbo. That's too much timing too fast. I know this to be true because your motor temps are higher than they should be for this software/setup. That on top of the issue of "fade" is telling me this is the case.

Since your'e running TC I would like you to try this setup:

Start rpm of 5096
End rpm of 16,000
Timing boost set to 45
Motor timing set to 10
No turbo to start out, you MUST find the right gearing first.

How big is this track? How long is the straight away? What motor are you running? Where are you geared?

FLAT OUT

Here is my set up from yesterday. Running an xray 009 with rubber tyres on a high grip carpet track. Track size 30 x 16 metres. Used a Novak ballistic 13.5 with timing set to N.

Start rpm 2800 approx
end rpm 12000
turbo off
throttle profile 3
push off
brake 100
reverse 100
Overal gearing 6.5, car was silly fast with good in field speed and fast down the straight. My mate thinks I should drop 2 teeth to about 7.0 so I may try that next time. Throttle profile 5 was far to aggresive and almost un-drivable.

CarbonJoe

Cross posted from the 1s LiPo thread, since this one gets a lot more traffic.

OK, here is a weird problem...

1/12 scale, Tekin RS Pro V203, 1s LiPo, voltage booster 17.5 Duo 1 motor. Zero degree timing on motor, max boost, max turbo, 0.3 delay, default start and end RPM, no voltage cutoff, neutral 10, brake strength 100, drag brake 5, rollout 3.10 inches.

Car runs great for about 5 minutes, then falls on it's face badly, slower by around 3 seconds per lap (10.5 fast lap, to 13.5 seconds at the end). Motor is only 106 degrees after entire 8 minutes. ESC was cold, so no chance of it overheating. Case, as well as posts weren't even warm.

Swap out motor to brand new 17.5 Duo 2, try different battery, different voltage booster. Same thing. Motor is only 115 degrees after 8 minutes. Not losing control (like if regulator was dropping out).

Otherwise, car was very fast. Leading race, had a lap up over 3rd place, but he was able to make it up, pass me, and finished 1 lap up over me. I can see dropping off a few tenths, but not 30%.

Any ideas?

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

you got too much turbo, timing and too short of a delay. the "easy" button is not to just max everything out.

rcterp

iTrader: (35)

I'd check a couple different things:

-is your neutral drifting therefore you're not actually hitting full throttle?
-what's the voltage on your main battery at the end of the run?