Originally Posted by FLAT OUT

Im running touring car with an xray T2 009, I have bought an rs pro and loaded the new v203 software. has any one run a Novak Ballistic 13.5 with the new software ??? Im running on a high grip carpet track with rubber tyres. The lap times are around 13 - 14 seconds and the track lay out changes every meeting.
I need a good base set up to start with and overal gear ratio would be good. Im scarred I will fry a motor. We dont get the chance for any practise at this track so any help would be really help full
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Originally Posted by bkspeedo

Boost - 50
Rpm range - 2400 to 7000
Turbo - 0 ( this is off )
FDR 6.0 - 6.5, Start with 6.5 and drop if needed.

Originally Posted by ddesros2

OK I've gone over this thread and loaded my cars with V203.

From all of this, this is what I take from it with V203 software:

1. Keep static motor timing small (0 to 10deg max!) (you want the torque at the start till boost kicks in)
2. Boost between 35 and 50 (less with lower turn)
3. RPM window to match approx speed of car through average corner speed
(ex: car is 10km/h in the corners = ~2560RPM on a 12th scale with 65 MMPR, start turbo ramp there...end near top speed 3/4 down the longest straight...adjust accordingly). 17.5TC 5000ish to 15000ish
4. Turbo only as last bit on long straight..no less than 0.5s delay.
5. Throttle profile to your driving style (best to use linear)
6. Some drag brake (brushless rolls freely). 10ish in 12th, 20-30ish in TC
7. Turbo ramp 1 or 2
8. 13.5 12th ~ 60 to 70mmpr (per track); 17.5TC ~ 5 to 6 FDR. Adjust per track.

Let me know if this makes sense to all of you out there.

Originally Posted by FLAT OUT

Cool thanks for that, have you run this setup how did it perform. Also what motor timing did you run as I know the novak N setting is the same as 30 degrees. Thanks for you help

Originally Posted by bkspeedo

0 Deg or N on the motor. We run on a 96ft x 44ft carpet track and performed quite well. Could probably use some refinement as this Sunday was my first time using the new software. Motor temp after 6 min was around 150deg. I was running a 6.2 FDR with the settings I posted.

Originally Posted by Ffejdat

I don't know what Trinity's 17.5 is rated at in Kv, but a Novak is rated at 2200Kv, gotta think Trinity is about the same...
Lots of people running the new tekin software at the track yesterday, at MMR, it was VERY fast, the 17.5 1s 12th sacle cars don't even look or sound the same as before. I did see a few people haveing trouble with their Novak boosters browning out or acting up, a few switched to TQ or some Hong Kong booster, and the issue went away...

Originally Posted by Hide

I'm about to purchase the RS Pro alongside a Speed Passion V3 7.5T. I'll also be getting the hotwire. Can someone recommend a good set up for me? I'm not looking for the fastest setup but the easiest and nicest to drive. Temps are not an issue as it is so cold here at the moment.

Using a Durango DEX410 on a medium sized astro turf track.

Thanks, Jacob.

Originally Posted by SlowerOne

I think this has been answered, but I hope this will clarify...

Turbo Boost comes in when you hit full throttle. It doesn't matter what is happening with Timing Boost, or rpm settings. Set your Turbo Boost to 0.0 secs delay, and 3.0 ramp, and as soon as you hit the throttle stop, the Turbo comes in a 6 deg/tenth of a second. This will be in addition to any other timing, and the chances are you will overwhelm the motor, and it will go slower as well as generating a lot of heat.

Take Randy's advice and turn the Turbo Boost off. For any straight less than 80' long, it is unlikely to be any benefit.

I hope this explanation will help understand battery fade...

When a permanent magnet electric motor revs up, it retards the timing. The interaction of the magnetic fields (coils and rotor) changes such that the effect is to reduce the advance.

If you add too much advance at low rpms then the motor can't deal with it. The coils fire in the wrong place with respect to the rotor magnetic fields, the rotor doesn't go faster, but the speedo continues to pile in the energy. The only thing the energy can do is convert to heat, and the high current drain goes on and on, instead of reducing as the revs rise.

What v203 is doing is letting you put in as much timing as the motor can use (and some other clever tricks, I am sure! ) through the 'rpm' settings, and letting you use more timing. However, if you use all of everything, then you will put in more timing than you can use, generate more heat through drawing more current, and then notice a drop-off. That's excluding the effect of too much heat in the motor, which will also cause drop off.

Whilst all this interaction and Q and A is interesting, it seems to me that if you get any serious drop-off, you have done something wrong. Some drop-off is inevitable due to reduced battery voltage, but we used to get that with NiMh anyway, so it's nothing new.

Let's remember that the AE BD had no turbo, yet smoked almost everyone in Vegas and Cleveland. I believe Tekin have sussed out what they were doing, and improved on it. So, why would I use Turbo Boost? Only because the straight was long enough, the motor was at maximum rpm already and used all the timing available, and could use more. With correct gearing, Timing Boost and rev range, there should be no need for Turbo Boost.

Nonetheless, it is very important to remember that if you see a noticeable drop-off, you're doing something wrong. Try and do without Turbo Boost indoors, and you will find that things improve, especially lap times and drop-off. Just my 2c, and I hope it helps.

Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst

Dual Mode
Limiter 85-95
Timing 80

Gear it about 9.5:1

Originally Posted by bkspeedo

0 Deg or N on the motor.