Originally Posted by tallyrc
so it's a little glitch? if we simply use .1 it wont engage till after end rpm is reached + .1 but with 0 it just jumps to adding turbo regardless of rpm?
I think this has been answered, but I hope this will clarify...
Turbo Boost comes in when you hit full throttle. It doesn't matter what is happening with Timing Boost, or rpm settings. Set your Turbo Boost to 0.0 secs delay, and 3.0 ramp, and as soon as you hit the throttle stop, the Turbo comes in a 6 deg/tenth of a second. This will be in addition to any other timing, and the chances are you will overwhelm the motor, and it will go slower as well as generating a lot of heat.
Take Randy's advice and turn the Turbo Boost off. For any straight less than 80' long, it is unlikely to be any benefit.
Originally Posted by pakk
There have been a few posts on battery fade. I have experienced it and I have seen others experience it this weekend.
What is causing excessive battery fade?
Is it too much RPM? Too much timing? Too much timing too fast?
I hope this explanation will help understand battery fade...
When a permanent magnet electric motor revs up, it retards the timing. The interaction of the magnetic fields (coils and rotor) changes such that the effect is to reduce the advance.
If you add too much advance at low rpms then the motor can't deal with it. The coils fire in the wrong place with respect to the rotor magnetic fields, the rotor doesn't go faster, but the speedo continues to pile in the energy. The only thing the energy can do is convert to heat, and the high current drain goes on and on, instead of reducing as the revs rise.
What v203 is doing is letting you put in as much timing as the motor can use (and some other clever tricks, I am sure!
) through the 'rpm' settings, and letting you use more timing. However, if you use all of everything, then you will put in more timing than you can use, generate more heat through drawing more current, and then notice a drop-off. That's excluding the effect of too much heat in the motor, which will also cause drop off.
Whilst all this interaction and Q and A is interesting, it seems to me that if you get any serious drop-off, you have done something wrong. Some drop-off is inevitable due to reduced battery voltage, but we used to get that with NiMh anyway, so it's nothing new.
Let's remember that the AE BD had no turbo, yet smoked almost everyone in Vegas and Cleveland. I believe Tekin have sussed out what they were doing, and improved on it. So, why would I use Turbo Boost? Only because the straight was long enough, the motor was at maximum rpm already and used all the timing available, and could use more. With correct gearing, Timing Boost and rev range, there should be no need for Turbo Boost.
Nonetheless, it is very important to remember that if you see a noticeable drop-off, you're doing something wrong. Try and do without Turbo Boost indoors, and you will find that things improve, especially lap times and drop-off. Just my 2c, and I hope it helps.