big al

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys, I need a little help here. I'm assuming that the ABC wire solder points are in this order when looking at the endbell directly. A second opinion would make me feel a little better. Thanks--Al

P2

iTrader: (15)

Just get a PC

picco007

iTrader: (99)

Why did I know you would get on this thread. No PC for me, you know that!

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

So I fried a motor today in my main event. A 5 week old Trinity Duo 17.5

Was running:
FDR of 4.74
Motor Timing of 10
Speedo timing of 15
Turbo max
delay .5
Super large outdoor asphault track.

About 7 laps in my car just stopped on the straight, and a puff of smoke billowed from underneith my car, and it was dead. Motor was at about 100 degrees.... was coming off the track around 150-160 during all my heats... Never had any issues of any kind until today.

So here is the kicker... another guy at my track is running the same motor, with less timing, but is geared at like 3.9. Sure seems like he's geared mighty tall to me (duos like to be geared taller than the redlines)... but he is one of the fastest guys at our track! He thinks gearing down, and advancing the timing as much as I did (which is what is normally recommended here in this thread) causes the motor to wind out too much.... and vuala... toasted Duo. (thanks for the tips/help, ritchie!)

Any thoughts? The car felt PERFECT until the smoke. Great infield punch, tons of speed on the straight... Qualifyng in the top 4.

Cpt.

big al

iTrader: (10)

Capt., last time I ran tat FW I was geared at 4.2. The was the next race right after the sizzler. I was able to keep up with Mark Brown for a good portion of the main (took myself out). I think 4.74 is a bit too high for the size of FW. It is very odd that you burned it at 100 deg. though. In my experience, once a motor starts to burn it is usually gets pretty hot from the "burning". Sorry that happened to you. Maybe it threw a wind...

Micro-E

iTrader: (4)

I just wanted to say 'Thanks!' to all on this thread for posting such helpful info. This is a fantastic resource for noobs like me. Sooo, I finally won a race today (17.5 rookie class). Took both qualifiers (the second one from the back), and the main - in the last few laps.

I am geared as tall as my spur/motor mount will handle (4.45), 0* on the can. I started with 15 on the speedo and was loosing ground on the straight (170') to other cars who were better geared. I whipped out the laptop and maxed the timing on the speedo. It gave me the edge I needed to now make up some ground on the straight. The motor never came off hotter than 130*. It is nice to have the flexability to adjust things electronically!!! The motor felt as strong at the end of the day as the beginning - I hope i did not fry anything by running max timing. I guess I'll find out next race... I want to try software v200, but I like the way the car feels now. I guess I can roll back to 198 if I run into problems.

Thanks Tekin for a great speedo and motor!

JR007

Question: Is 80ºC (that's about 176°F for you imperial folk ) getting a bit hot for a Redline 13.5?
The track I race on has a 230 foot straight. No that wasn't a type, this is a big-ass track!
I'm thinking I may need to drop the turbo from max as by the end of the straight the old girl is whining her tits off. Has anyone been using turbo on a setting OTHER than max? It sounds kind of chicken-shit to me dropping it down , but then that sounds better than the sound of my credit card slapping me in the face when I burn out a motor....

rcpoint

I had the same problem on my track (MACH Heemstede) with fantom 13.5. Turbo setting change does not have influence on temp (from my experience) but ESC timing does. I droped 5 deg on ESC timing and temp droped to 65-70C. You should try this and see if it works for you.
Z

2wdrive

I had a race this weekend where 9.5t with 2s were driven in 235mm pancars. I used my 10.5t tekin in my car.

I always had the same problems with my tekin 10.5t motor with 2s. It was always too hot even with a super low rollout and a 40mm fan mounted on the pod!

After some experimenting i decided to turn the timing down and to keep the low rollout. Normaly i would increase the rollout with lower timing to get the same speed. (low timing higher rollout, high timing lower rollout doctrine)

My rollout was 12-14mm lower then other drivers with a 9.5t and although i missed a little punch out of the corners to my surprise i could keep up with the 9.5t pancars on the straight and those drivers are one of the best pancar drivers here and know how to set up a car.

My settings were for a big gas track with roughly 240-250 feet straight (setup by memmory will check this evening for sure):
roughly 42mm rollout (the 9.5t drivers had a rollout of around 54-56mm)
10 on the motor
16boost
15turbo at 0.8sec
Drag brake 20
Motor was 162 degrees Fahrenheit. (72 Celcius) after 5 minute race
This was with 2s lipo

When the turbo comes in too fast you will cook the motor. Even with 0.1 sec difference my motor got a little hotter with no extra speed increase. All the maximum timing is doing is just making your motor hotter with no gain in speed. Lower the timing but keep the low rollout works better it seems.

I think i am getting to the sweet spot here but still need some advice to get just a little extra punch out of the corners? It seems the start is going fine but between 10-16 feet the 9.5t seems to be a little faster and at top speed i am as fast as the 9.5t.

Should i lower boost or motor timing further 1 or 2 degrees or go down a tooth? I did go up with the boost to try to be a little faster between the 10-16 feet but the motor got hotter with no speed increase and after 3-4 minutes in the race the motor will go slower cause of heat build up.

mikky32

Keep your Turbo on max. your motor will not get hotter.
Than you can go even lighter with your roll out. And set your Turbo delay on 0,5. You will get sooner the Turbo power and go even faster. You will be faster than a 9,5T.
I was that also with my 10,5T

So always keep your Turbo on Max.
I use it on every track on max and I have never problems with it.

My motor temp stayed way below the 180F this Sunday in the race.

2wdrive

I already tried that but it only made the motor hotter. Had full turbo and 0.5sec but the extra timing just comes in too soon and heats up the motor. Even with a 40mm fan the motor got hot. i think the motor is at it's limits in the reving department on such a strait and low rollout and any more timing is just turned into heat.

With 15 turbo and 0.8sec i didn't have that problem and speed was the same as the 9.5t on the straight and temps were 72 degrees celcius without the help of a fan. Maybe reducing my motor timing and boost a little and put on a teeth on the pinion will do something as well for the punch in the infield and motor heat as the motor doesn't have to rev so much all the time. Will test this comming weekend on the track in Gouda. Will race then with 10.5t class so it is a better comparison. Heard that that track has a longer straight then Heemstede? way bigger then 360 feet straight anyway. I gues roughly 430feet or so with a big sweeper in between? (130 meter)

What was that rule again? reducing 2 degrees timing for every extra teeth added?

mikky32

Turbo on max or on 15 doesn't matter in temp by me.

2wdrive

It could be that my rollout was so low that the motor already reved at it's maximium capability and that 20 turbo was just overkill on the long straight. I am not sure but i saw it when checking the temp of the motor with the two different settings. with 20 turbo the motor did get hotter then with 15 and was screaming down the strait when turbo kicked in. Specially when reducing the time on the turbo the motortemp was a lot hotter. Speed wise it didn't make much difference only the motor was a lot hotter and got slower sooner in the race. It could be that if i lower my motor timing and boost and go up one or two teeth that i can put the turbo higher as the total timing would be a little lower. There are so many options with TC 10.5t on 5cells, TC 13.5t on 2S but with pancar it is a little more difficult it seems as not many drive tekin here in a 235mm pancar. It is either GM or LRP.

It could be that on 2s lipo and 10.5t the timing can go lower as you have more volts to play with. I really need to check each option one step at a time from the setup i have now. I am already happy that with motor temp and top speed i am in the zone now. The rest will be fine tuned. I do appreciate all the help i get and thoughts on how to improve it.

2wdrive

A little off-topic but the 9.5t pancar guys were driving modified TC laptimes on that track i drove last weekend

Modified TC drive between 15 and 16 sec laps. The 9.5t guys were in the low 15s -15.5 seconds. I touched modified touring car times (4.0-4.5t) a couple of times with the tekin 10.5t combo in my pancar with a fastest lap of 15.73 seconds, i just missed the punch for that 0.5 seconds difference to make it below the 16 seconds mark constantly lol. The modified pancars were flying with 13.17 seconds fastest laptime. No 1/8 has done that yet on that track.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

I've said this numerous times: Max timing and Max RPM setups are not always the answer, and rarely are. You need to find the sweet spot for your motor, at your track, with the driving style that YOU have.

If you see high motor temps and no improvement in laptimes your setup is off. The first thing I'd do is lower timing to see if that change makes a difference. Small amounts of overtiming can create HUGE amounts of added motor heat...