Tekin RS ESC sensored
#3768
hi can any one give me any ideas on what to try to get brakes im running 198 software and i cant get brakes tried it all i think any ideas would be good.
#3770
Tech Adept
For large tracks (according to my tests), yes it is. I used to have RS pro in my car (13.5 class) but was loosing a lot on top speed and lap times. With SPX I'm up there in top 3.
I still beleive RS Pro is a very good ESC and can't wait to get my hands on new software (with 'turbo').
Z
I still beleive RS Pro is a very good ESC and can't wait to get my hands on new software (with 'turbo').
Z
#3771
i have an t2'009 eu, tekin rs pro and SP 10.5T...
I started out with 5.29 FDR (27/84 -48P)... Motor temps were low so I eventually upgraded to 189 and now 198... and increases boost a little at a time... I am now at full boost with the 198 software and the temperature is still "only" 140*F. I did not have any appreciable difference in temp or speed going from 25* boost to 30* of boost...but the car is still appreciably fast...
So what now ?... I could you use more top end and more grunt out of corners if available .. I was thinking to go back to 20* boost and go to 5.1 FDR (28/84) and start again from there...
Any better ideas?
thanks.
I started out with 5.29 FDR (27/84 -48P)... Motor temps were low so I eventually upgraded to 189 and now 198... and increases boost a little at a time... I am now at full boost with the 198 software and the temperature is still "only" 140*F. I did not have any appreciable difference in temp or speed going from 25* boost to 30* of boost...but the car is still appreciably fast...
So what now ?... I could you use more top end and more grunt out of corners if available .. I was thinking to go back to 20* boost and go to 5.1 FDR (28/84) and start again from there...
Any better ideas?
thanks.
#3772
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
Does anyone have experience with running a standard rs in a 12th scale with a mod motor (4 cell or 1s with a 5.5)? I've been told by someone testing the unit that they couldnt get through a run as the esc was thermalling.
I was thinking that there would be less load on the esc with a 12th scale.
Is anyone able to confirm this?
Oh we tend to run on asphalt with what i guess is below average grip.
I was thinking that there would be less load on the esc with a 12th scale.
Is anyone able to confirm this?
Oh we tend to run on asphalt with what i guess is below average grip.
#3773
Tech Master
i have an t2'009 eu, tekin rs pro and SP 10.5T...
I started out with 5.29 FDR (27/84 -48P)... Motor temps were low so I eventually upgraded to 189 and now 198... and increases boost a little at a time... I am now at full boost with the 198 software and the temperature is still "only" 140*F. I did not have any appreciable difference in temp or speed going from 25* boost to 30* of boost...but the car is still appreciably fast...
So what now ?... I could you use more top end and more grunt out of corners if available .. I was thinking to go back to 20* boost and go to 5.1 FDR (28/84) and start again from there...
Any better ideas?
thanks.
I started out with 5.29 FDR (27/84 -48P)... Motor temps were low so I eventually upgraded to 189 and now 198... and increases boost a little at a time... I am now at full boost with the 198 software and the temperature is still "only" 140*F. I did not have any appreciable difference in temp or speed going from 25* boost to 30* of boost...but the car is still appreciably fast...
So what now ?... I could you use more top end and more grunt out of corners if available .. I was thinking to go back to 20* boost and go to 5.1 FDR (28/84) and start again from there...
Any better ideas?
thanks.
With a total timing of 40 to 45 you have a better acceleration.
My setup with a LRP X11 10,5 motor is.
Boost 23 and 5,4 FDR.
Thats a total timing of 50 ad the moment but that is because the track is quit big.
I'm going to test boost 18 and 5,2 FDR and boost 13 with 5,0 FDR.
But because it was raining today i must wait till wens day till i can test it.
After that i now for 2 motors a good setup at our track.
I have tested the Speedpassion 10,5. I'm not so happy about the results with the motor. The speed is ok and acceleration to but the motor get's faster hot than the LRP.
y best setup for fast lap times was 4,7 with 18 boost but than the motor get's to hot. I now have 23 boost and 5,2 FDR. The LRP is a better motor so far.
Lap times are better and the temps are also lower.
When i have a good setup for the LRP i can start again with the Tekin Redline motor.
Helpt first some club members with there Tekin RS Pro and there setup fr there motor.
After that i can start with an other club member testing the Tekin motor.
But every track has a different setup.
Cant wait till i have the Turbo.
Yes the SPX is at the moment on big tracks the fastest.
Some say the GM but the result's with top speed were that the highest top speed was done with a SPX and a Tekin redline motor.
On indoor and smaller outdoor tracks the Tekin is faster.
I notost that my acceleration was better than that from the Gm and from the SPX. Also short straight ends the Tekin is faster than the GM.
The SPX hath tha same top speed.
I passed a GM on the straight.
Now i want the turbo so i can race the saterday evening races by the Baanbrekers.
They have a long and fast track.
#3774
Tech Adept
Does anyone know what the "from the factory" timing is for a Novak 21.5,17.5,10.5 motor is??
#3775
could you kindly clarify a bit for me?... you say that with 40 to 45* of total timing, you have better acceleration.
with the tekin.. the max boost is 30* and assuming around 12* of "pre-read" from the motor sensors.. than the total timing is sitting around 40 - 45 already.
if i go up one tooth on the pinion, I'm going to have to lower the timing to say 30* of total timing between esc and motor...
in parenthesis.. I also thought.. that more timing gives more rpm and less torque...
g
#3776
thanks for the tips mikky....
could you kindly clarify a bit for me?... you say that with 40 to 45* of total timing, you have better acceleration.
with the tekin.. the max boost is 30* and assuming around 12* of "pre-read" from the motor sensors.. than the total timing is sitting around 40 - 45 already.
if i go up one tooth on the pinion, I'm going to have to lower the timing to say 30* of total timing between esc and motor...
in parenthesis.. I also thought.. that more timing gives more rpm and less torque...
g
could you kindly clarify a bit for me?... you say that with 40 to 45* of total timing, you have better acceleration.
with the tekin.. the max boost is 30* and assuming around 12* of "pre-read" from the motor sensors.. than the total timing is sitting around 40 - 45 already.
if i go up one tooth on the pinion, I'm going to have to lower the timing to say 30* of total timing between esc and motor...
in parenthesis.. I also thought.. that more timing gives more rpm and less torque...
g
i think i got what you had in mind...
there's esc timing... (say 30)... motor timing (for SP approx 12) and the pre-read (approx 15).... so in total I'm actually at ~57!
i should aim to get the boost to somewhere around 15* so...
g
#3777
Tech Master
plus the timing of your motor (12) is in total already 27
so than you come to 13 to18 boost.
i use 23 boost because the track is a bit bigger so i have some more top speed.
#3778
I understand some of the issues. The biggest misconceptions come from when the uneducated talk about the specs.
Sensored only mode doesn't actually add 15 degrees. There is an "early read" that ALL motors have(not the esc). This was brought up only after the big T said that they were releasing a motor with this "issue" fixed inside it. When those motors started to fail everyone got confused. We added to to the public "knowledge" base so people understood that what they thought was only 45 could actually be as high as 60!
So, in general with spec motors try to stay with the total timing between motor and boost no higher than 40. Much higher than this can cause mis commutations and super high motor temps. Anytime you run super high timing your window for succesful gearing becomes very tight and failure possibility is high. You MUST have the right gearing before you reach for the higher timing setups.
The latest software 198 can be found on the site. I reccomend that everyone be running the latest. The team has done exhaustive testing with trap guns and tracks of all sizes and has found that 189 vs. 194 vs. 198 results with the same speeds when setup in the same fashion. 198 has the latest updates for RS, R1, Fxr, B1r,etc.
The corrected version of 198 that has the 1s check box glitch fix will be out shortly:
www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html
Sensored only mode doesn't actually add 15 degrees. There is an "early read" that ALL motors have(not the esc). This was brought up only after the big T said that they were releasing a motor with this "issue" fixed inside it. When those motors started to fail everyone got confused. We added to to the public "knowledge" base so people understood that what they thought was only 45 could actually be as high as 60!
So, in general with spec motors try to stay with the total timing between motor and boost no higher than 40. Much higher than this can cause mis commutations and super high motor temps. Anytime you run super high timing your window for succesful gearing becomes very tight and failure possibility is high. You MUST have the right gearing before you reach for the higher timing setups.
The latest software 198 can be found on the site. I reccomend that everyone be running the latest. The team has done exhaustive testing with trap guns and tracks of all sizes and has found that 189 vs. 194 vs. 198 results with the same speeds when setup in the same fashion. 198 has the latest updates for RS, R1, Fxr, B1r,etc.
The corrected version of 198 that has the 1s check box glitch fix will be out shortly:
www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html
edit:
After re-reading the post that andy made for three times it seems that brushless motors have an additional standard timing because zero timing isn't functional for the motor? So in fact if the motor is timed 12 degrees it is not actually 12 but 12 and a little more ( the real standard timing to get the brushless motor to run properly)
Maybe you can explain it better in laymensterms andy :-)
Last edited by 2wdrive; 05-17-2009 at 10:01 AM.
#3779
g
#3780