Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Noob chiming in here:

I just decided to get a pair of RS' for me and the misses. The normal RS for her, and an RS pro for me (hope to run low turn mod eventually). My questions is about the optional capacitor. Right now, we are going to only be running 17.5 brusless stock tekin motors... me in stock class, her in novice. Would using the cap be a good idea at this point? Or will it do nothing for us? If it is still recommended anyway, is there information in the RS manual on how to solder it up?

Thanks.
Cpt.

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

hey CPT, When I ran 12th scale 17.5 I ran the cap. If I'm not mistaken you should always run a cap. The directions tell you to solder it directly to the posts, and be sure which end is Negative and which is positive. It will explain this in the directions. Hope this helps some.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Always run the cap... got it. Now, do I run the Tekin cap, or are there generic alternatives that will work just as well, that aren't $6 a piece? Recommendations there?

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Yep, it's amazing what these guys are doing. I keep gearing lower and lower for more and more bottom end without sacrificing top speed.

hacker

iTrader: (141)

I'm sick of pulling out the rs receiver plug when using the the hotwire.

Do you recommend getting a Y adapter to make it easier with hotwire connectivity, or would it be harmful to still leave the rs connected to receiver?

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Good question. A Y would be nice for the constant plugging/unplugging while getting things dialed in, and then could be removed once you're there.

Bob~H

iTrader: (13)

I will always stay with the Tekin cap. I don't want to make a mistake by using the wrong cap on a great speedo. The Tekin cap was included with my RS Pro and I would assume it is with the RS also (of course we all know what happens when we assume........)

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

It's 2 for $5. That's how they are packaged. So $2.50 each is more like the right price. Plus it comes with the little insulation shrink.

2056dennis

iTrader: (134)

hey guys my lights on the esc are blinking when at full throttle is it normal or is something wrong with my settings thanks and im running 194 with full boost and 0 on motor

HarryLeach

Mine blinks at full throttle and when at full brake, which is for confirmation that you're hitting full throttle or full brake [at least I hope it is, because that's what I take it to mean] .

2056dennis

iTrader: (134)

well i hope that is correct i just dont remember if it did that from the first time when i put mine in or not just want to be sure

HarryLeach

Mine and the RS I installed for my brother do it, and runs great.

pakk

iTrader: (80)

Mine does the same thing at full brake and throttle.

I like the Y adapter idea. Any ill affects to it?

--pakk

Krio

iTrader: (159)

I don't think using a y adapter will work for anyone as power will be fed to the receiver as well. I made a short extension so at least I'm not plugging it in and out of the receiver itself.

Dragula426

iTrader: (4)

Ran the 194 software version today for the first time. Had run 189 last week and new the motor temp and how many laps it went. Well, no changes other than the updated version, and was hoping for the temp reduction, but it came off at the exact same temp as last week.

Its a dirt oval EDM car running 17.5, and to be fair, we really only use the upper part of the power band, but it was one lap quicker overall. I had made some suspension changes that improved the car but temps were the same, right to the degree.

Set-up was 15* of boost in the ESC and right around 14* motor timing. Car is an absolute rocket, and finished 2nd in the A only the second time on the track with it.