Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Phil you may need to open up your NW. If your radio is "wandering" a bit signal wise this will cause a delay feel.

jayhawknavy02

iTrader: (2)

Just soldered my RS PRO ESC. This is the second ESC I've soldered and very different than how I routed/attached my RX8.

I think I put enough slack in the wires, and the solder joints themselves look good, nice and shiny, but I want to make sure I gave enough "slack" to prevent the motor tabs or ESC posts from getting pulled out.

Thanks for the constructive criticism on the solder job, any help on how to do this better is good for me. I have thick skin

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

It looks good. Personally I would have added 1/2" more but that's me.

CarbonJoe

For the motor wire connections at the ESC, after you tin the wires, but before the solder is fully cooled, flatten the ends with pliers. You can then fit the wires in the slots in the solder posts on the ESC.

jayhawknavy02

iTrader: (2)

Should I redo the solder job? I don't want to damage the motor ESC.

I did this on my RX8, but the posts were so small on the RS Pro that I didn't think I could get them to fit. Next time I'll flatten them, some more to get them to fit

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

hey all...its been a while since I've last run my RS - what's the latest version of the firmware?

CarbonJoe

223, which has been out for quite a while.

torg

I did this because I thought you had to on 3 differen RS Pro's, had to use a heavy duty vice grip to flatten them enough and it looks ugly.

Then I read (I think someplace else in this thread), that you didn't have to do that. I tried it and I was much happier.

Personally, I think you did the right thing.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

jayhawknavy02 - ditch the heat shrink tubing. The posts act as heat sinks. So having heat shrink tubing, even if just on the battery posts insulates them and doesn't let them cool as effectively.

Other than that it looks good. One thing I do though when wiring up my cars is to slide the motor all the way to the rear, then cut my wires to proper length. This solves 2 issues. No matter where I need my motor for proper gearing/mesh I have enough wire, and once I move the motor forward to get proper mesh I now have enough slack, but not too much, in the wires.

jayhawknavy02

iTrader: (2)

Great tips thanks! That will help a lot for the next build.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

thanks! i should have known that

sunco1

iTrader: (29)

Another reverse polarity question.. I accidently made this mistake for about a half a second. I saw some sparks at the negative battery terminal upon contact. Some smoke from the sparks but that was it. No smoke from the esc. No blown up capacitor. I ran my two 5 minutes qualifiers and an 8 minute main right after cause it seemed okay.

I went ahead and ordered a replacement just in case since Motorama is right around the corner. What do you guys think? Should I open it up and check out the internals?

sunco1

iTrader: (29)

double post

Rojna

Adrean

iTrader: (-1)

Guys ,
i have 2 little problems , hope you can help me with this , first i put HARA 17.5 SETUP ON my car and i run with REDLINE 13.5 MOTOR RS ESC , run with a 6.4 FDR in my car 108 spur / 32 pinion , but my motor after 10 minutes comes at 125 celsius , i know thats is too much temperature , and my motor didnt run again but i have some motor on my spares and i put a new Motor and Go for 7.1 FDR , 116 SPUR / 31 PINION on My XRAY T3 12 , it runs very strong in all 10 Minutes of The Main Final , i Win by 2 Laps , but the temperature when i finish Was 93 Celsius , so My Question is , i need To Go Higher on FDR like 8.00 , or what i need to re adjust on My ESC setup ? Thanks A lot !!!

I run with 5000 mAh 35c 2S 7.4V Lipo Battery , in an Large Asphalt Track , we need to reach 10 minutes in qualifiers and Final .

Thanks In Advance

Cheers