Tekin RS ESC sensored
10-12-2011, 08:07 PM
thanx guys. i have been using a 6.6v life pack but wanted something smaller. i only run 17.5 and 13.5 in both blinky and boosted. i know the smartboost is huge but novak has a new one that looks about the size as the tqcells just dont know if it will work with the tekin or if it has lipo cutoff like the older smartboost. i looked on stormer but cant find the booster
10-13-2011, 05:26 AM
thanx guys. i have been using a 6.6v life pack but wanted something smaller. i only run 17.5 and 13.5 in both blinky and boosted. i know the smartboost is huge but novak has a new one that looks about the size as the tqcells just dont know if it will work with the tekin or if it has lipo cutoff like the older smartboost. i looked on stormer but cant find the booster
10-13-2011, 05:32 AM
The new Novak unit, if for all intents and purposes, is the same unit as their old one, only smaller. The Stormer one needs some rewiring. The TQ booster is essentially the Stormer one (sourced differently) with some pretty cool updates.
If you're good with wiring, go with the cheap booster. If you're not, the TQ is a better bet than the Novak.
That being said, WHEN Tekin comes out with a replacement for the RS/RS PRO and their non-upgradeable ESC, I hope that it includes smart boost tech like the blue esc! That would end all the scrambling to make 'em work with 1S.
If you're good with wiring, go with the cheap booster. If you're not, the TQ is a better bet than the Novak.
That being said, WHEN Tekin comes out with a replacement for the RS/RS PRO and their non-upgradeable ESC, I hope that it includes smart boost tech like the blue esc! That would end all the scrambling to make 'em work with 1S.
10-13-2011, 03:35 PM
I just started getting an odd glitch in my TC. About every other lap, the steering would go hard left for just a split second when I hit the brakes. Not bad enough to wreck, just enough to throw me off line. I thought it was something wrong with the car until I actually saw the front wheel turn. Then I was able to recreate it on the bench by revving and then hitting the brakes. Replaced the servo and it still did it.
What do you think, bad cap maybe?
What do you think, bad cap maybe?
10-13-2011, 03:39 PM
servo
I would try rebinding the receiver. I had this happen on a throttle servo on my nitro car. It was in the receiver.
10-13-2011, 05:01 PM
10-13-2011, 05:27 PM
Check the RS's servo lead carefully for any real hard kinks or evidence of insulation melting, same with the power switch wires, since they're inline with the BEC output and also have to carry the power load for the whole radio system.
If there's anything like that going on, replace the leads, you're probably experiencing brown-out, even on an FM receiver.
I had a similar experience before, a Rx cap helped, but was no cure, an external BEC was a space-hog cure. When I finally opened up the RS case and found some insulation melting and hard kinks, I replaced all the wire, opened up the case hole so the wires could come out straighter, and was able to ditch my Rx cap, and external BEC. The same treatment cured glitching on 2 other RS setups that I worked on. In all 3, I found lots of broken strands in the wire where it had been kinked and heat cycled, usually on older RS's. In the worst glitching setup, the insulation had melted enough to allow the red and signal wires to "intermingle" under certain conditions.
EDIT: all 3 were out of warranty, but otherwise working, obviously. For anybody with a working RS that's still under warranty, I don't recommend soldering on it internally at all, and even for the ones that are out of warranty, only try something like this if you're confident in your ability and willing to man up for any mistake you might make.
If there's anything like that going on, replace the leads, you're probably experiencing brown-out, even on an FM receiver.
I had a similar experience before, a Rx cap helped, but was no cure, an external BEC was a space-hog cure. When I finally opened up the RS case and found some insulation melting and hard kinks, I replaced all the wire, opened up the case hole so the wires could come out straighter, and was able to ditch my Rx cap, and external BEC. The same treatment cured glitching on 2 other RS setups that I worked on. In all 3, I found lots of broken strands in the wire where it had been kinked and heat cycled, usually on older RS's. In the worst glitching setup, the insulation had melted enough to allow the red and signal wires to "intermingle" under certain conditions.
EDIT: all 3 were out of warranty, but otherwise working, obviously. For anybody with a working RS that's still under warranty, I don't recommend soldering on it internally at all, and even for the ones that are out of warranty, only try something like this if you're confident in your ability and willing to man up for any mistake you might make.
10-13-2011, 05:47 PM
I just started getting an odd glitch in my TC. About every other lap, the steering would go hard left for just a split second when I hit the brakes. Not bad enough to wreck, just enough to throw me off line. I thought it was something wrong with the car until I actually saw the front wheel turn. Then I was able to recreate it on the bench by revving and then hitting the brakes. Replaced the servo and it still did it.
What do you think, bad cap maybe?
What do you think, bad cap maybe?
10-13-2011, 06:34 PM
Than you're likely getting a flat radio hit. First thing I'd try is another channel. IF that doesn't cure it look really hard at how and where your electronics are laid out and where the wires are routed.
10-13-2011, 06:42 PM
10-13-2011, 06:43 PM
The new Novak unit, if for all intents and purposes, is the same unit as their old one, only smaller. The Stormer one needs some rewiring. The TQ booster is essentially the Stormer one (sourced differently) with some pretty cool updates.
If you're good with wiring, go with the cheap booster. If you're not, the TQ is a better bet than the Novak.
That being said, WHEN Tekin comes out with a replacement for the RS/RS PRO and their non-upgradeable ESC, I hope that it includes smart boost tech like the blue esc! That would end all the scrambling to make 'em work with 1S.
If you're good with wiring, go with the cheap booster. If you're not, the TQ is a better bet than the Novak.
That being said, WHEN Tekin comes out with a replacement for the RS/RS PRO and their non-upgradeable ESC, I hope that it includes smart boost tech like the blue esc! That would end all the scrambling to make 'em work with 1S.
10-13-2011, 08:54 PM
I just started getting an odd glitch in my TC. About every other lap, the steering would go hard left for just a split second when I hit the brakes. Not bad enough to wreck, just enough to throw me off line. I thought it was something wrong with the car until I actually saw the front wheel turn. Then I was able to recreate it on the bench by revving and then hitting the brakes. Replaced the servo and it still did it.
What do you think, bad cap maybe?
What do you think, bad cap maybe?
10-16-2011, 07:23 PM
10-16-2011, 07:54 PM
In 1s racing, has anyone experienced the turbo not coming on after two or three minutes into the run? I run on a small track about 65 by 35 or so. We dont use the delay for the turbo because the straight is so short and the size of the track. Here's my set-up:
CRC Wgt car
Tekin 13.5 motor w/12 degree's mechanical timing
Tekin RS
boost start 750
boost end around 3800 (if I remember correctly)
turbo delay is 0
boost is about 40
Revtech 5600 1s 60c battery
We are running 6 minutes, and I don't experience any problems until 3 minutes into the run. The motor comes of between 115 and 12o degrees. So if the motor isn't hot, I wouldn't the speedo would be either. Any ideas on this?
CRC Wgt car
Tekin 13.5 motor w/12 degree's mechanical timing
Tekin RS
boost start 750
boost end around 3800 (if I remember correctly)
turbo delay is 0
boost is about 40
Revtech 5600 1s 60c battery
We are running 6 minutes, and I don't experience any problems until 3 minutes into the run. The motor comes of between 115 and 12o degrees. So if the motor isn't hot, I wouldn't the speedo would be either. Any ideas on this?
10-16-2011, 08:34 PM
In 1s racing, has anyone experienced the turbo not coming on after two or three minutes into the run? I run on a small track about 65 by 35 or so. We dont use the delay for the turbo because the straight is so short and the size of the track. Here's my set-up:
CRC Wgt car
Tekin 13.5 motor w/12 degree's mechanical timing
Tekin RS
boost start 750
boost end around 3800 (if I remember correctly)
turbo delay is 0
boost is about 40
Revtech 5600 1s 60c battery
We are running 6 minutes, and I don't experience any problems until 3 minutes into the run. The motor comes of between 115 and 12o degrees. So if the motor isn't hot, I wouldn't the speedo would be either. Any ideas on this?
CRC Wgt car
Tekin 13.5 motor w/12 degree's mechanical timing
Tekin RS
boost start 750
boost end around 3800 (if I remember correctly)
turbo delay is 0
boost is about 40
Revtech 5600 1s 60c battery
We are running 6 minutes, and I don't experience any problems until 3 minutes into the run. The motor comes of between 115 and 12o degrees. So if the motor isn't hot, I wouldn't the speedo would be either. Any ideas on this?
How much are you pulling out of your battery each run?
Overheating a motor on 1s is pretty rare, with your low start and end RPM settings, I suspect you're seeing the effects of voltage drop that early into a run.