olly986

I think he is talking about your capacitor which I did not see on the side of your speedo, I feel it is better to have it closer to the wires personally.

adam lancia

iTrader: (2)

Ah, ok. I can't see what kind of a difference the extra 15mm of wire between the cap and the posts will make, but I'm not an electrical engineer either...

For_the_win

iTrader: (9)

Can anyone tell me how to tell if my lipo cutoff is on?

tc3team

http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf

Once you have gone into option 7 in quick tune, the following light sequence will tell you.

1) NONE(LED1 ON). For NiCd/NiMh Cells.
2)6 Volts(LED1-LED2 ON). Use for 2 Cells LiPo (2S)
3)9 Volts (LED1-LED3 ON). Use for 3 Cells LiPo (3S)
4)Custom (LED1-LED4 ON). HotWire required

QuickTune Example: Let’s say you want to use a 2 cell LiPo battery. To change the Voltage Cutoff from the default setting (1 = None) to setting 2 (2 = 6.0 Volt Cutoff), first follow step 1 above by pressing and releasing the MODE button 7 times. Now press and release the INC button, the LED should show the current setting of 1. Press and release the INC button again and the LED will move to position 2, indicating that Voltage Cutoff is now set to 6.0 Volts. Wait 5 seconds and the ESC returns to normal operation.

Hope that helps you

For_the_win

iTrader: (9)

Perfect!!

tc3team

glad to help, have fun

Dave De Voe

I've got an Xray T3,tekin rs pro,and a 5.5 and I want to play around with it before I put the new chassis plate on without burning my SH&% UP.Any suggestions on gearing. Planing on just leaving esc in "blink" figured 5.5 motor would push it just fine.......I've got a 96 spur in it now and every pinion available.....THANKS

tc3team

What size track are you at?

And i'm assuming you're using a redline motor, yes?

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

i am using my rs for silver can brush motor
i find there are 2 different ways wiring the motor. does it make any difference in performance?

sandsurfer

iTrader: (20)

I'm running an rs with a trinity 17.5 and after about 4 laps (1 1/2 min) it loses pretty much all power. I changed the sensor wire, re-calibrated 3 or 4 times, reinstalled 212, tried different batteries and used different model memory on radio all with the same result. Everything worked fine during practice.

5.68 FDR
Controller Settings
Sensored
Throttle profile 3
Drag brake 5
Min brake 10
Min throttle 10
Brake strength 86
Neutral width 8
Push control 0ff
Boost 42
Start end rpm 3030 – 16000
Turbo 17, delay .30, ramp 2

Any ideas on what may be causing this issue? My last thought is to try a new cap.

Thanks in advance, Gary

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

when it does it are any of the led's flashing,loosing a sensor can feel like this

sandsurfer

iTrader: (20)

no led's are flashing when it happens. Motor is brand new.

nerdling

iTrader: (8)

Try a different motor. Also, are all the bearings in the car healthy? A failed bearing can feel fine in the pits ut when in use become hot and jam up causing a 'loss of power'.

sandsurfer

iTrader: (20)

All bearings were new, along with the motor. Will try another motor, didn't have one with me yesterday as I didn't think there would be any need because of the new one I put in.

Dave De Voe

The track would be the street in front of my house...and velocity 5.5, like i said just some fun runs before new chassis goes on