Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
Bill
That is helpful. It would seem that I can adjust the Throttle Profile manually, but not the Timing Profile. Are these the same thing? Not really clear to me at this time. All I want to do is get the blinky working.
Hope I'm not being stupid.
Thanks
Hope I'm not being stupid.
Thanks
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
once it is updated to 212 there is no manual throttle profile you need a hotwire to do this,version 200 ond older there is,did you update the rs
is it brand new if so you are in a no timed mode it just doesn't blink,if you look herescroll down you can see the updates and what the older versions are.now if you hook up the rs to a 212 it will update automatically(mine does)cant say for other pc's
I will have to get together with somebody from the club and update the rs so that I can get blinky working.
Oh well, good excuse to buy a new netbook. Boy, this racing thing is getting expensive
thanks for the links and the help!
Last edited by durtbag; 03-15-2011 at 08:51 PM. Reason: Didn't read well enough. Are you saying that a new rs comes in no timed mode?
Thanks for the info.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Alright, so I did some testing. The Tekin is definitely weird.
Here's roughly what happens when I pull the trigger slowly.
1) First 10% of throttle throw: complete dead band. Absolutely no response from the speedo, even with minimum throttle at 20, and neutral with at 0.
2) Minimum throttle: Once you pass the dead zone, the tekin goes to min throttle.
3) Neutral width: As you pull the trigger more, the Tekin stays at the same throttle until you pass the neutral zone. With the min throttle at 20, I tested various neutral widths from 0 to 10. With neutral with of 0, the drive jumped to min right after the dead zone, and then climbed smoothly with more trigger. With higher neutral width values, the drive would stay flat at min throttle farther past the dead zone before increasing with added trigger.
I have to say, this seems pretty dumb to me. The way it should work is that neutral width should adjust the dead zone, and 0 should really be zero, or at least a lot closer than 10%. Then once you're past the dead zone, it should jump to min throttle, and then increase linearly from there.
So... I can imagine that the punch/throttle accel setting would be nice to have in the radio.
The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.
-Mike
Here's roughly what happens when I pull the trigger slowly.
1) First 10% of throttle throw: complete dead band. Absolutely no response from the speedo, even with minimum throttle at 20, and neutral with at 0.
2) Minimum throttle: Once you pass the dead zone, the tekin goes to min throttle.
3) Neutral width: As you pull the trigger more, the Tekin stays at the same throttle until you pass the neutral zone. With the min throttle at 20, I tested various neutral widths from 0 to 10. With neutral with of 0, the drive jumped to min right after the dead zone, and then climbed smoothly with more trigger. With higher neutral width values, the drive would stay flat at min throttle farther past the dead zone before increasing with added trigger.
I have to say, this seems pretty dumb to me. The way it should work is that neutral width should adjust the dead zone, and 0 should really be zero, or at least a lot closer than 10%. Then once you're past the dead zone, it should jump to min throttle, and then increase linearly from there.
So... I can imagine that the punch/throttle accel setting would be nice to have in the radio.
The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.
-Mike
Tech Addict
iTrader: (35)
Alright, so I did some testing. The Tekin is definitely weird.
Here's roughly what happens when I pull the trigger slowly.
1) First 10% of throttle throw: complete dead band. Absolutely no response from the speedo, even with minimum throttle at 20, and neutral with at 0.
2) Minimum throttle: Once you pass the dead zone, the tekin goes to min throttle.
3) Neutral width: As you pull the trigger more, the Tekin stays at the same throttle until you pass the neutral zone. With the min throttle at 20, I tested various neutral widths from 0 to 10. With neutral with of 0, the drive jumped to min right after the dead zone, and then climbed smoothly with more trigger. With higher neutral width values, the drive would stay flat at min throttle farther past the dead zone before increasing with added trigger.
I have to say, this seems pretty dumb to me. The way it should work is that neutral width should adjust the dead zone, and 0 should really be zero, or at least a lot closer than 10%. Then once you're past the dead zone, it should jump to min throttle, and then increase linearly from there.
So... I can imagine that the punch/throttle accel setting would be nice to have in the radio.
The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.
-Mike
Here's roughly what happens when I pull the trigger slowly.
1) First 10% of throttle throw: complete dead band. Absolutely no response from the speedo, even with minimum throttle at 20, and neutral with at 0.
2) Minimum throttle: Once you pass the dead zone, the tekin goes to min throttle.
3) Neutral width: As you pull the trigger more, the Tekin stays at the same throttle until you pass the neutral zone. With the min throttle at 20, I tested various neutral widths from 0 to 10. With neutral with of 0, the drive jumped to min right after the dead zone, and then climbed smoothly with more trigger. With higher neutral width values, the drive would stay flat at min throttle farther past the dead zone before increasing with added trigger.
I have to say, this seems pretty dumb to me. The way it should work is that neutral width should adjust the dead zone, and 0 should really be zero, or at least a lot closer than 10%. Then once you're past the dead zone, it should jump to min throttle, and then increase linearly from there.
So... I can imagine that the punch/throttle accel setting would be nice to have in the radio.
The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.
-Mike
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Not sure if this is an approved method or not or how it will affect drag or push but I like it.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
hang on... did the other settings give you cogging issues? If it did, try another sensor wire and motor after that. I had a similar problem, and it turned out to be the rotor in the motor had slipped a little on the shaft and was causing the hesitation and cogging. And upon back off after free-revving (lightly) it seemed like it had quite a bit of drag brakes on. If you are getting any symptoms like above, try another motor after the sensor wire.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Alright, so I did some testing. The Tekin is definitely weird.
Here's roughly what happens when I pull the trigger slowly.
1) First 10% of throttle throw: complete dead band. Absolutely no response from the speedo, even with minimum throttle at 20, and neutral with at 0.
2) Minimum throttle: Once you pass the dead zone, the tekin goes to min throttle.
3) Neutral width: As you pull the trigger more, the Tekin stays at the same throttle until you pass the neutral zone. With the min throttle at 20, I tested various neutral widths from 0 to 10. With neutral with of 0, the drive jumped to min right after the dead zone, and then climbed smoothly with more trigger. With higher neutral width values, the drive would stay flat at min throttle farther past the dead zone before increasing with added trigger.
I have to say, this seems pretty dumb to me. The way it should work is that neutral width should adjust the dead zone, and 0 should really be zero, or at least a lot closer than 10%. Then once you're past the dead zone, it should jump to min throttle, and then increase linearly from there.
So... I can imagine that the punch/throttle accel setting would be nice to have in the radio.
The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.
-Mike
Here's roughly what happens when I pull the trigger slowly.
1) First 10% of throttle throw: complete dead band. Absolutely no response from the speedo, even with minimum throttle at 20, and neutral with at 0.
2) Minimum throttle: Once you pass the dead zone, the tekin goes to min throttle.
3) Neutral width: As you pull the trigger more, the Tekin stays at the same throttle until you pass the neutral zone. With the min throttle at 20, I tested various neutral widths from 0 to 10. With neutral with of 0, the drive jumped to min right after the dead zone, and then climbed smoothly with more trigger. With higher neutral width values, the drive would stay flat at min throttle farther past the dead zone before increasing with added trigger.
I have to say, this seems pretty dumb to me. The way it should work is that neutral width should adjust the dead zone, and 0 should really be zero, or at least a lot closer than 10%. Then once you're past the dead zone, it should jump to min throttle, and then increase linearly from there.
So... I can imagine that the punch/throttle accel setting would be nice to have in the radio.
The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.
-Mike
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
hang on... did the other settings give you cogging issues? If it did, try another sensor wire and motor after that. I had a similar problem, and it turned out to be the rotor in the motor had slipped a little on the shaft and was causing the hesitation and cogging. And upon back off after free-revving (lightly) it seemed like it had quite a bit of drag brakes on. If you are getting any symptoms like above, try another motor after the sensor wire.
-Mike