CarbonJoe

Before sending it back, try downgrading and then re-upgrading the firmware, especially if it worked before the upgrade. This has brought more than one RS back from the dead. At this point you have nothing to lose, and just might save a round trip back to Tekin.

ChadRacing

iTrader: (3)

Im not quite sure...i turned the endbell counter-clockwise to were the letters a and B are straddling the a soldering tab

wasnt sure how to read the timing on this motor since i just got it before i ran a couple packs

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

I believe the new motors have timing ticks but for now what I did with my D3's is rotate the end bell each way as far as it will go and the made a mark on the can with a knife. That will give you a better idea of where your timing is relative to 0 (the one line on the back from the factory) and max (the line you made with the knife).

toptek

I have a question.
as i set the rpm range for sensord mode and set the advanced timing on 100.
will the advanced timing use the rpm settings from the sensord mode as you loose the sensor wire?

\it looks like i have moore power as \i pull out the sensor wire. if the car accelarates faster.
I don't feel that i loose extreem much power in the infield.
only driving away gives some problem but as I set the throttle on 15 it runs better away.

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

hey guys we are running 17.5 2wd short course with no timing or boost allowed. with 212 i have speedo in profile one for spec. can you reccommend a throttle and brake minimum. thanx. also on redline motor what should i start timing at. we can run timing in motor.. thanx i appreciate all the help.

CarbonJoe

Timing advance is only used a) in sensorless mode b) in dual mode, after switching to sensorless mode or c) in sensored only mode, whenever the sensor signal is lost for whatever reason (sensor board fails, wire gets damaged, etc).

The motor may cog a little from a dead stop, but after it is moving, you shouldn't have cogging.

toptek

yes I now it only is ussed in those modes, but I want to now with rpm setting it uses may you loose your sensor wire in a race.
Not that it happens but in case of.

toptek

Throttle minimum is just testing and see what you like. start low and raise it each time a bit.
Brake minimum is hard because I didn't notis it what it does.
my brakes are great now.

Motor timing.
as you nee a lot of power set it lower. As you need top speed set it around the standart timing or a bit lower. Motor gets wormer.
as you set the motor timing lower you can gear heavier.
find a balance in it.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

rpm range is still used,randy said that a few pages ago.
randy quote

toptek

thanks.
just got my laptop and the days before i was using my phone for internet and that is not fine to see everything.
think that i mist it.

Dave De Voe

cut black wire on switch/splice it into red rec. wire
R/C plus thead has more about how to do it.
learned it from them.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

do you mean this

genius120

Need help, TURBO BOOST LOOSING AFTER 5 MINS. ESC rs pro FW:212
-motor: lrp x12 10.5t endbell timing: 0°(default) FDR: 7.18
-Boost: 40, start RPM: 8907, end RPM: 22032
-Turbo: 10, Turbo ramp: 2, Turbo delay: .3
-Voltage cut-off: 6.360
-Drive mode: sensored only
-Motor direction: normal
-Throttle profile: 1
-Current limiter: off
-neutral width: 20

No temperature problems ESC temp: 3leds, Motor temp: 60-63°C Max.
Switching off and switching on again the ESC, turbo boost back to normal.

thanks

CarbonJoe

Try re-calibrating with your radio's EPA set to 90%, then set the radio's EPA back to 100%. Some radios have the neutral and/or end points drift.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

add 10 to your end throttle position on the radio