Tekin RS ESC sensored
12-21-2008, 04:58 PM
#1741
with the sensored only box checked , is that using the motor timing or the esc timing
12-21-2008, 05:03 PM
#1743
thats what im using, i know its not gearing, i tried several aswell as a 13.5 motor withe different gearing all together. This happens at a part throtle take off as well.
12-21-2008, 05:41 PM
#1744
It's not gearing. Sounds like we possibly have a sensor, sensor harness issue.
I'd like you to use the sensor checker feature on the esc. Also, make sure that the narness on the motor and esc are facing the correct way. They "can" be placed in backwards pretty easily.
I'd like you to use the sensor checker feature on the esc. Also, make sure that the narness on the motor and esc are facing the correct way. They "can" be placed in backwards pretty easily.
12-22-2008, 04:36 AM
#1745
In general if the esc doesn't thermal the lack of speed in a brushless system will be the motor. If the motor gets hot the magnets lose strength and therefore power.
The RS Pro has more fet's than any competition esc on the market today. In an extremem situation such as the one you speak of we recomend the use of two of our RS caps as close to the esc as possible, with a small fan blowing onto the solder posts.
This is a picture of one of our Team Drivers Jason Moberly's TC5.
The RS Pro has more fet's than any competition esc on the market today. In an extremem situation such as the one you speak of we recomend the use of two of our RS caps as close to the esc as possible, with a small fan blowing onto the solder posts.
This is a picture of one of our Team Drivers Jason Moberly's TC5.
12-22-2008, 10:13 AM
#1747
The fan will get more power hooked directly to the battery rather than the receiver. It's ok to do. That's a drivers car. I would run a switch from batt leads to the fan so I can turn it off.
Pm checked. Sorry there's a lot to read in all of them.
Pm checked. Sorry there's a lot to read in all of them.
12-22-2008, 10:56 AM
#1748
I have had the 189 software for a couple of weekends now and it works fine. I am running a 17.5 with 35 degrees of total timing (20 boost and 15 from sensor only mode). Should I however use max timing on the motor and add boost to get me near 35 degrees? For example: Novak 17.5 max timing 12 degrees + 15 degrees sensor only + 8 boost. Which is more efficient?
I will do some testing with this over the weekend. Just curious to hear others findings.
I will do some testing with this over the weekend. Just curious to hear others findings.
12-22-2008, 12:04 PM
#1749
Total timing vs. total timing should see no difference. The end result is the same.
Some prefer to have the motor timing at or near 0 just because they can adjust the motors timing without a computer or do it quickly.
I'm running 45 degrees of total timing on my 13.5 in 2wd offroad as an example. 20 on the motor, 15 sensored only, 10 on the boost.
Some prefer to have the motor timing at or near 0 just because they can adjust the motors timing without a computer or do it quickly.
I'm running 45 degrees of total timing on my 13.5 in 2wd offroad as an example. 20 on the motor, 15 sensored only, 10 on the boost.
12-22-2008, 12:46 PM
#1750
Total timing vs. total timing should see no difference. The end result is the same.
Some prefer to have the motor timing at or near 0 just because they can adjust the motors timing without a computer or do it quickly.
I'm running 45 degrees of total timing on my 13.5 in 2wd offroad as an example. 20 on the motor, 15 sensored only, 10 on the boost.
Some prefer to have the motor timing at or near 0 just because they can adjust the motors timing without a computer or do it quickly.
I'm running 45 degrees of total timing on my 13.5 in 2wd offroad as an example. 20 on the motor, 15 sensored only, 10 on the boost.
12-22-2008, 06:09 PM
#1751
I thought there was a Tekin 1/8 thread but couldn't find it, so I hope it's ok to ask here. Is it confirmed that the RS Pro has the same capability as the R1 pro to handle 4s in 1/8? If so, can the RS Pro also control the 1/8 sensored motors from Novak in addition to the sensorless like the Nue's? And is the Tekin 1/8 speedo (rx8?) close enough to being released that it's ok to hold my breath and wait for it?
12-22-2008, 06:50 PM
#1752
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Total timing vs. total timing should see no difference. The end result is the same.
Some prefer to have the motor timing at or near 0 just because they can adjust the motors timing without a computer or do it quickly.
I'm running 45 degrees of total timing on my 13.5 in 2wd offroad as an example. 20 on the motor, 15 sensored only, 10 on the boost.
Some prefer to have the motor timing at or near 0 just because they can adjust the motors timing without a computer or do it quickly.
I'm running 45 degrees of total timing on my 13.5 in 2wd offroad as an example. 20 on the motor, 15 sensored only, 10 on the boost.
12-22-2008, 09:08 PM
#1754
Randy is probably referring to the 15 deg default built into the esc.
12-22-2008, 09:30 PM
#1755
Yes, in sensor mode the RS goes by the endbell setting plus it adds 15 degrees of advance to that. The "boost" slider allows you to add up to 30 degrees more timing advance to the 15 degrees that the RS adds by default in that mode.
I have two questions regarding the 1.89 update...
First, I always ran in dual mode in my sedan with 1.80 firmware. When I flashed the ESC to 1.89, I recalibrated, and reset all the hotwire settings to match what I had used with 1.80. I noticed that I lost some speed with the 1.89 firmware... guys that I'd been able to pull on the straight were now faster than me. Did something happen in 1.89 that slowed down the hybrid mode? I haven't seen any mention of that, but I definitely noticed it on the track.
Second question... I'm now running 1.89 in sensor mode with a Trinity Duo 17.5, in a 1/12 4 cell car. Ten degree advance at the endbell, 15 more by default in sensor mode, and 14 degrees boost. Temp at 160 after an eight minute heat ina 4 cell 1/12 car (total timing I guess is 39 degrees, right?)
The car did hesitate briefly on the start of the main, but I guess with 39 degrees advance it's to be expected? THe car seemed to be about as fast ini the qualifiers, running ten degrees at the endbell, and boost at 4 (for a total of 29 degrees) Motor came off at 104 degrees after eight minutes at that setting, but didn't do a full throttle standing start in the qualifiers.
My question is, should I expect a better starting line shot at the lower timing setting? I did notice a bit more down the straight at 39 degrees, but overall lap times pretty much the same... I guess I might have wanted to gear down a tooth or so with the extra boost, but being the motor was so cool I figured ten more degrees wouldn't put me into an overheating situation... I guess I'm wondering if I'd be better running at 39 degrees and dropping the tooth, or leaving the gearing and taking the ten extra degrees of boost back off... Which way would be more likely to give me back the holeshot at the start of the main??
I have two questions regarding the 1.89 update...
First, I always ran in dual mode in my sedan with 1.80 firmware. When I flashed the ESC to 1.89, I recalibrated, and reset all the hotwire settings to match what I had used with 1.80. I noticed that I lost some speed with the 1.89 firmware... guys that I'd been able to pull on the straight were now faster than me. Did something happen in 1.89 that slowed down the hybrid mode? I haven't seen any mention of that, but I definitely noticed it on the track.
Second question... I'm now running 1.89 in sensor mode with a Trinity Duo 17.5, in a 1/12 4 cell car. Ten degree advance at the endbell, 15 more by default in sensor mode, and 14 degrees boost. Temp at 160 after an eight minute heat ina 4 cell 1/12 car (total timing I guess is 39 degrees, right?)
The car did hesitate briefly on the start of the main, but I guess with 39 degrees advance it's to be expected? THe car seemed to be about as fast ini the qualifiers, running ten degrees at the endbell, and boost at 4 (for a total of 29 degrees) Motor came off at 104 degrees after eight minutes at that setting, but didn't do a full throttle standing start in the qualifiers.
My question is, should I expect a better starting line shot at the lower timing setting? I did notice a bit more down the straight at 39 degrees, but overall lap times pretty much the same... I guess I might have wanted to gear down a tooth or so with the extra boost, but being the motor was so cool I figured ten more degrees wouldn't put me into an overheating situation... I guess I'm wondering if I'd be better running at 39 degrees and dropping the tooth, or leaving the gearing and taking the ten extra degrees of boost back off... Which way would be more likely to give me back the holeshot at the start of the main??