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Old 12-08-2012, 12:42 AM   #181
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hey guys i have 2 questions:
What options do we have for foam front bumpers?
If i convert it to a drifter can i do just plastic tires or do i need a oneway diff on the rear also?

thx
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:37 AM   #182
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Big bump.

What's the best way to fit a LiPo in this chassis? Should I just square out the stock battery mount?
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:20 AM   #183
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Big bump.

What's the best way to fit a LiPo in this chassis? Should I just square out the stock battery mount?
Get a 'stickpack' type of lipo. They fit without any chassis mods, same Lipo as used in Tamiya M03,M05 Minis .
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:35 PM   #184
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Just found my old TL-01 from years ago in my garage. Figured id get it up and running since i have a few friends who are into RC. Already learned alot just from reading this thread, and glad to know i have a place with the knowledge to help me with anything i might need.
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:20 PM   #185
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Default tamiya tl 01

hi i dug out my old tamiya tl01 for the boy to have a go on it. charged up battery and it all works but it keeps accelerating on it's own i've got to hold back on power to keep it stationary any ideas thanks james
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:11 AM   #186
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hi i dug out my old tamiya tl01 for the boy to have a go on it. charged up battery and it all works but it keeps accelerating on it's own i've got to hold back on power to keep it stationary any ideas thanks james
what sort of transmitter?
remove any trim adjustments on the throttle
re-calibrate esc to your radio
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:43 AM   #187
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what sort of transmitter?
remove any trim adjustments on the throttle
re-calibrate esc to your radio
transmitter the same as the reciver on car trim just slows it down a bit forgot to mention it is reversing as well and wont go forward i changed the power to the motor arrownd and it still goes forward and wont revers is the brain on car its self not working priced them up 12 it is a mtroniks viper eco27
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Old 10-31-2014, 08:38 AM   #188
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what the hell.. is there two generations of TL-01?? info please!
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Old 10-31-2014, 04:16 PM   #189
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-TL01 (standard)
-TL01LA (long arm version)
-TL01B (buggy)

TL01 and TL01B have fake imitations.
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Old 10-31-2014, 05:57 PM   #190
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-TL01 (standard)
-TL01LA (long arm version)
-TL01B (buggy)
.
+ TL01 lightweight chassis (greyish in color)

TL01LA shares suspension parts (arms etc) with TA04 , I think.
TL01 arms also fit on the Tamiya M03 mini's, makes minis wider & less prone to rolling.
A M03 with TL01B buggy arms & a stupidly powerful 5T motor is alot of fun.

Last edited by 1101; 11-01-2014 at 02:44 AM.
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Old 11-02-2014, 07:08 AM   #191
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The new one i got here got material removed under the servo and where most mount the ESC.
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:10 PM   #192
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Reviving this thread as I'll soon be digging out my old TL01 to get it ready for next year's Iconic cup here in the UK. They've added a 'bog standard' stock class with only the TL01 (not LA version) and TT01 allowed. Should be fun! Anyone got any hints & tips for making the car as good as possible whilst keeping it near stock?
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:26 PM   #193
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Quite honestly having raced a TL-01 back in the early 2000s I wouldn't even think about running it without a Long arm conversion.

The stock chassis is extremely sensitive, very twitchy and has bad Torque steer.

since the class you want to run it doesn't allow for hopups. I would recommend getting a REALLY good computerized radio, you will want to enable an ABS function for the brakes and figure out a good setup for the car so the brake will pulse and you can pull a good hard brake into the corners without the chassis breaking loose.

next setup a throttle curve and take a bunch of punch out of the low end. this will correct some of the torque steer off the line when you try and punch it from slow or standing stops.

if aftermarket tires are allowed then you will have to play around to find a combo that works for the track and your driving style. i used to run belted HPIs and would alternate mediums on the front depending on how much oversteer i was getting.

The TL-01 is a tough little chassis to master since it is very sensitive you have to be really smooth driving it any jerkiness and it breaks loose.

The Long arm conversion kit took a ton of the problems out of the chassis made it much more stable and forgiving.

since as stated you need to run the stock chassis then it will come down to how you setup the transmitter and the tires.

way back then there was no brushless so i have no idea how a brushless combo would fair in the chassis today.
with lipos being lighter you will most likely need to add weights back on the chassis to compensate.

my car is still pretty insane, all the hopups, carbon fiber shafts all over and titanium hardware on the lightened chassis.
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:55 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamiyadan View Post
The stock chassis is extremely sensitive, very twitchy and has bad Torque steer.

since the class you want to run it doesn't allow for hopups. I would recommend getting a REALLY good computerized radio, you will want to enable an ABS function for the brakes and figure out a good setup for the car so the brake will pulse and you can pull a good hard brake into the corners without the chassis breaking loose.
I have memories or racing it on polished wood back in 2002-03? It was my first car - started out as a Baja Champ then I converted it just so I was allowed to race
The zero/negative caster on the front makes it go all over the place - back then I had a super basic acoms 27mhz radio so it was a tough learning curve to drive it.
I upgraded to a Hitec Lynx 3D soon after (still use it!) and that does have ABS, EXP, EPA etc. - so should be able to get it under control.

The tyre choice is open, I might try Sorex 28R on the rear and 32R on the front (it'll be on ashphalt) and the control motor is the new Team Powers 17t black can brushed. I've seen it in action and it's a fair bit faster than the standard silvercan.
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Old 09-26-2017, 02:03 PM   #195
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on motors: the chassis was only decent down to maybe a 16 Turn.
the gearing was always too tall even with the optional Gear set to change the internal ratio.

The motor cooling is also REALLY bad and you can melt the entire rear end pretty easy if you go too low on the motor with the over gearing.

i ran Super stock with mine and stuck around 20Turn. i did one TCS (tamiya champ series) with mine, then hung it up around 2001 i know i last ran mine maybe 2003. i remember the Long arm conversion came out later and i had installed it hit one or two more races after that.

people always used to get confused with the LA kit, they kept thinking it made the cars wider. It did nothing of the sort it made the arms longer and the hinge points farther out but kept the wheelbase width the same as before it just allowed the chassis to move the weight distribution out so the chassis felt flatter and handling so much better as the weight changed distribution in curves.
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