Advices on tb01
07-15-2003, 05:13 PM
#31
Originally posted by sty
Hi blixel X,
i am also thinking of buying a tb01, may i know where you bought it and how much? By the way i am from spore and 39 yrs old. Even worst than you, now than got a little bit of money to play RC. HA Ha.
Hi blixel X,
i am also thinking of buying a tb01, may i know where you bought it and how much? By the way i am from spore and 39 yrs old. Even worst than you, now than got a little bit of money to play RC. HA Ha.
u may visit hobby link in far east plaza, more choices there... saw the price tag for the tb01 is $269, may hav bit discount if u get full set from them, the man there shown more professional then the one i bought...
07-15-2003, 06:26 PM
#32
heard from many ppl saying that belt-driven is better/ faster/ more stable than shaft-driven... is this correct?? is it ta04 better than tb01?
07-15-2003, 06:38 PM
#33
Originally posted by blixelX
so, 26mm or 24mm is better??
if not wrong, 26mm will hav better speed than 24mm, rite??
so, 26mm or 24mm is better??
if not wrong, 26mm will hav better speed than 24mm, rite??
we're only talking 2mm difference.I think its more to do with FASHION than anything!!
The only consideration is... if you want to buy good racing tyres,
all the major popular tyres (Ride, Sorex, Take Off, HPI etc etc) are
today making their good racing compounds only in 24mm.
So there's not really much choice.
07-15-2003, 06:51 PM
#34
Did you get Ride 6 spokes or other Ride wheels? The 6 spokes are quite flexible and I've not had one break on me yet. If you are talking about other Ride wheels, then yes, they are made of harder plastic and are not very durable.
Originally posted by WC
I got some Ride and some Yokomo wheels before too, both in white... but they seem to make it out of same material as Tamiya. They will not survive acetone and they feel hard enough to crack on impact too.
If you whack kerbs a lot... I just got given some Schumacher RevLite dish wheels. These are pretty flexible plastic, but this don't seem to hurt performance on track. Last w/e I tested their whackability (haha) and they survived fine. Picked up heaps of paint from the boards (heehee), wiped them off with acetone no problems. They sound like a good bet & not expensive.
Have no idea who in S'pore sells Schuey stuff, can't help you there.
I got some Ride and some Yokomo wheels before too, both in white... but they seem to make it out of same material as Tamiya.
They will not survive acetone and they feel hard enough to crack on impact too.If you whack kerbs a lot... I just got given some Schumacher RevLite dish wheels. These are pretty flexible plastic, but this don't seem to hurt performance on track. Last w/e I tested their whackability (haha) and they survived fine. Picked up heaps of paint from the boards (heehee), wiped them off with acetone no problems. They sound like a good bet & not expensive.
Have no idea who in S'pore sells Schuey stuff, can't help you there.
07-15-2003, 06:55 PM
#35
Hey guys, I recommend that you buy from Winnie in Orchard Plaza. We are not suppose to quote prices on the thread but I can guarantee you that you can get a TB-01 for a much cheaper price from Winnie than you have quoted below. Winnie will take good care of you.
Originally posted by blixelX
i bought it at bedok, it is not a fully r/c shop, just partially... $260 for the tb01, $100 for the controller, $75 for battery, $49 for the quick charger...
u may visit hobby link in far east plaza, more choices there... saw the price tag for the tb01 is $269, may hav bit discount if u get full set from them, the man there shown more professional then the one i bought...
i bought it at bedok, it is not a fully r/c shop, just partially... $260 for the tb01, $100 for the controller, $75 for battery, $49 for the quick charger...
u may visit hobby link in far east plaza, more choices there... saw the price tag for the tb01 is $269, may hav bit discount if u get full set from them, the man there shown more professional then the one i bought...
07-15-2003, 06:59 PM
#36
I don't think it is a straight difference between a belt vs. shaft which determines which is the quicker or better car.
From my own experience, I have found that the TA-04 series is generally better to drive and easier to maintain than the TB-01 series. The prices of the TB-01 and TA-04S are almost the same (at least in Singapore). If you are looking to get your first touring car, my recommendation is to get the TA-04S as opposed to the TB-01.
From my own experience, I have found that the TA-04 series is generally better to drive and easier to maintain than the TB-01 series. The prices of the TB-01 and TA-04S are almost the same (at least in Singapore). If you are looking to get your first touring car, my recommendation is to get the TA-04S as opposed to the TB-01.
Originally posted by blixelX
heard from many ppl saying that belt-driven is better/ faster/ more stable than shaft-driven... is this correct?? is it ta04 better than tb01?
heard from many ppl saying that belt-driven is better/ faster/ more stable than shaft-driven... is this correct?? is it ta04 better than tb01?
07-15-2003, 07:10 PM
#37
Originally posted by KiwiKid
I don't think it is a straight difference between a belt vs. shaft which determines which is the quicker or better car.
From my own experience, I have found that the TA-04 series is generally better to drive and easier to maintain than the TB-01 series. The prices of the TB-01 and TA-04S are almost the same (at least in Singapore). If you are looking to get your first touring car, my recommendation is to get the TA-04S as opposed to the TB-01.
I don't think it is a straight difference between a belt vs. shaft which determines which is the quicker or better car.
From my own experience, I have found that the TA-04 series is generally better to drive and easier to maintain than the TB-01 series. The prices of the TB-01 and TA-04S are almost the same (at least in Singapore). If you are looking to get your first touring car, my recommendation is to get the TA-04S as opposed to the TB-01.
i saw a tamiya tb01 carbon frame set from ebay, is this set suitable for the normal tb01?? will it make the car run smoother?
is there any alloy/ aluminium accessaries suitable for tb01? thinking to change some accessories to make looks nicer and run smoother....
07-15-2003, 07:35 PM
#38
Just suggesting
Hi BlixelX,
I have been playing gas car for a few years and recently got attracted to electric. Just to share my experience so that you may have an ideal. Tamiya is a car that enable alot of hopups and many a time, many players will buy a basic car, than got excited and start hopping up with lots of expensive stuff and till the end the car is so expensive that they should have straight go for the hi end stuff. Therefore my advice is just play with the motor and the gear, get the feel of driving it, than if really get addicted, plan for your next car. I am sure it is gong to be cheaper this way. Just my thought, hope that you dont mind. Thank You.
I have been playing gas car for a few years and recently got attracted to electric. Just to share my experience so that you may have an ideal. Tamiya is a car that enable alot of hopups and many a time, many players will buy a basic car, than got excited and start hopping up with lots of expensive stuff and till the end the car is so expensive that they should have straight go for the hi end stuff. Therefore my advice is just play with the motor and the gear, get the feel of driving it, than if really get addicted, plan for your next car. I am sure it is gong to be cheaper this way. Just my thought, hope that you dont mind. Thank You.
07-15-2003, 07:40 PM
#39
Originally posted by blixelX
heard from many ppl saying that belt-driven is better/ faster/ more stable than shaft-driven... is this correct?? is it ta04 better than tb01?
heard from many ppl saying that belt-driven is better/ faster/ more stable than shaft-driven... is this correct?? is it ta04 better than tb01?
from: archived thread from TamiyaClub.com
PRO belt
-efficient, direct power transmission
-can have one-way pulley, and/or one-way diff
CON belt
-all power goes thru a skinny belt
-belts wear & stretch
-stone & grit damage
-diffs are exposed
PRO shaft
-no belt "bungy" (like a slingshot) on acceleration
-no stones to eat your belt
CON shaft
-lot harder to change your spurgear
-one-way diff or spool only
-packaging issues (can't have battery in middle)
-car "rocks" L/R when revving
07-15-2003, 07:54 PM
#40
Originally posted by blixelX
i had got a tb01... still no regret...
i saw a tamiya tb01 carbon frame set from ebay, is this set suitable for the normal tb01?? will it make the car run smoother?
is there any alloy/ aluminium accessaries suitable for tb01? thinking to change some accessories to make looks nicer and run smoother....
i had got a tb01... still no regret...
i saw a tamiya tb01 carbon frame set from ebay, is this set suitable for the normal tb01?? will it make the car run smoother?
is there any alloy/ aluminium accessaries suitable for tb01? thinking to change some accessories to make looks nicer and run smoother....
Yes, standard TB01 need this:-
ITEM 53408 (OP408) TB-01 Carbon Frame Set
Do not buy the chassis for the TB Evolution 1/2/3/4/5/6... they are not interchangeable. Only buy the OP408, which comes in a black cardboard box.
First TB01 "mandatory" option... FRONT FOAM BUMPER!!
This can be useful too, especially for hot mod motors...
ITEM 53403 (OP403) TB-01 Aluminum Motor Mount
This *might* improve your handling...
ITEM 53430 (OP430) TG10/TB-01 Long Suspension Arm
Turnbuckles are good for very fine adjustments:
ITEM 53388 (OP388) Turnbuckle Rod (TG10, TB-01)
ITEM 53392 (OP392) Turnbuckle Arm (TG10, TB-01)
I think this one fits TB01 too (might be wrong):
ITEM 53365 (OP365) TG10 Aluminum Racing Steering
ITEM 53378 (OP378) TG10 Alu. Front Hub Carrier
ITEM 53380 (OP380) TG10 Aluminum Rear Upright Set
(last 2 not for use with "long suspension arm" set)
There are heaps of options you can screw to a TB01, but think
about what you want your car to be. If you're only playing in
the voiddeck, you really don't need any of them...
Option parts, especially the alloy ones, are very expensive.
Should really consider total $$$ you want to spend, vs what your
ideal car is. Might be that its *cheaper* to go buy a new car kit
altogether. Or just buy better batteries, good tyres and go racing!
Driving skills are worth more than all the hopups available.
07-15-2003, 08:10 PM
#41
... like what Sty sez!
Oh, I forgot some hopups...
Universal driveshafts are always good, especially for front:
ITEM 53409 (OP409) TG10 & TB-01 Universal Shaft
ITEM 53431 (OP431) Univ. Shaft (L-Sus) TG10, TB-01
ITEM 53438 (OP438) TA04 Universal Shaft Set
If you want to save 130g in weight from your Rally TB01, get:
ITEM 50886 (SP886) TB-01 Aluminum Propeller Shaft
53401 OP401 TB-01 Lightweight Ring Gear
TA04 is a fantastic design, simply world class!
Afterall, TA04 is the "consumer version" of the legendary 414, the car that won the IFMAR ISTC World Championship. Can't get any better than that!!!
But now the new TB Evo III & SE has its share of fans too.
Damned Tamiya, make decisions so hard!!
Oh, I forgot some hopups...
Universal driveshafts are always good, especially for front:
ITEM 53409 (OP409) TG10 & TB-01 Universal Shaft
ITEM 53431 (OP431) Univ. Shaft (L-Sus) TG10, TB-01
ITEM 53438 (OP438) TA04 Universal Shaft Set
If you want to save 130g in weight from your Rally TB01, get:
ITEM 50886 (SP886) TB-01 Aluminum Propeller Shaft
53401 OP401 TB-01 Lightweight Ring Gear
Originally posted by KiwiKid
...get the TA-04S as opposed to the TB-01.
...get the TA-04S as opposed to the TB-01.
Afterall, TA04 is the "consumer version" of the legendary 414, the car that won the IFMAR ISTC World Championship. Can't get any better than that!!!
But now the new TB Evo III & SE has its share of fans too.
Damned Tamiya, make decisions so hard!!
07-15-2003, 10:34 PM
#42
yah... tamiya really hav lots of categories of chassis... quite hard to decide to choose for begginers...
anyway, lucky i didnt choose the tl01, if not will damn regret...
any1 can recommend an budget average ESC that is worth to get and can be found in singapore??
anyway, lucky i didnt choose the tl01, if not will damn regret...
any1 can recommend an budget average ESC that is worth to get and can be found in singapore??
07-16-2003, 12:54 AM
#43
Originally posted by blixelX
any1 can recommend an budget average ESC that is worth to get and can be found in singapore??
any1 can recommend an budget average ESC that is worth to get and can be found in singapore??
LRP/Nosram are good German technology, many levels.
Novak is always reliable US-made stuff, many levels too.
Futaba 230 & 330 are good; the higher end stuff is rebadged LRPs.
(KO & Tamiya have highend stuff which are rebadged LRPs too.)
Keyence and CS Electronics, mainly higher end stuff.
Mtronics... "water proof"??
also usually lots of Taiwannese & China stuff at the cheap end.
With ESC, usually you get what you pay for.
Also should decide on reversing or non-reverse ESC.
(reversing is more expensive, non-reverse have better specs)
Worth spending more if you intend to stay with RC for long time.
07-16-2003, 04:26 AM
#44
I second what Sty says. If you are thinking carbon and alloy - forget about hopping up the TB-01 and go and get yourself an EVO III or EVO III Surikarn Edition. By the time you spent the money hopping up the TB-01, you would have spent about the same or more than the EVOs. Trust me, I have a fully hopped up TB-01 but still find the TA-04 a better car to drive and easier to adjust and maintain. In my view, the main problem with the TB-01 is not the shaft drive, the problem is with the rest of the design. It is not surprising that in the EVO III, Tamiya literally took the suspension system from the 414M and put it into the EVO.
If you are just driving your TB-01 for fun, then resist going the hop up route. If you are keen to race, then I strongly recommend you get a racing chassis.
Incidentally, if you really are looking for hop-ups for a TB-01, I have one which I'm thinking of servicing then selling. I'm off overseas next week but can be contacted the following week. (I'm based in Singapore).
If you are just driving your TB-01 for fun, then resist going the hop up route. If you are keen to race, then I strongly recommend you get a racing chassis.
Incidentally, if you really are looking for hop-ups for a TB-01, I have one which I'm thinking of servicing then selling. I'm off overseas next week but can be contacted the following week. (I'm based in Singapore).
07-16-2003, 03:59 PM
#45
Originally posted by WC
Davioh:- pls rethink what your above reply... my pinion/gearing is based on the standard "AV" Tamiya gears, which are 0.6mod. Please do remember we're talking about standard TB01 here, not the Evolutions...
There is no such thing as a 30t AV pinion, that'll be ~3cm in diameter. The biggest AV pinion Tamiya makes is only 25t!! And that, I think that gives about 5:1 overall ratio already.
blixelX:- you using stock standard TB01 gears, right??
Davioh:- pls rethink what your above reply... my pinion/gearing is based on the standard "AV" Tamiya gears, which are 0.6mod. Please do remember we're talking about standard TB01 here, not the Evolutions...
There is no such thing as a 30t AV pinion, that'll be ~3cm in diameter. The biggest AV pinion Tamiya makes is only 25t!! And that, I think that gives about 5:1 overall ratio already.
blixelX:- you using stock standard TB01 gears, right??
Tamiya 0.6 Aluminum Pinion Gear 27T/TA04