pro3
#1396
I think you'd notice what the rc zombies/associated tuning guide post said
4+2 = better ride
6-0 = sharper turn in (less anti-dive geometry)
I would expect mid- and exit-corner steering to be pretty similar.
4+2 = better ride
6-0 = sharper turn in (less anti-dive geometry)
I would expect mid- and exit-corner steering to be pretty similar.
#1397
Tech Elite
Thanks guys
That's the answer I was looking for.
Thanks
Thanks
#1398
graphite arms
To all you pro 3 fans lyk me:
Does the carbon arms really make a big diffrence in perfrmance?
For those of you who has tried it, did u feel the difrence from
the stock in terms of handling or was the difrence just in
your mind?
Does the carbon arms really make a big diffrence in perfrmance?
For those of you who has tried it, did u feel the difrence from
the stock in terms of handling or was the difrence just in
your mind?
#1400
Tech Apprentice
The thing I like about the graphite suspension arms, is that the hub carriers in the rear, and the c hubs in the front dont flex forward and backwards. The graphite removes slop basicly, and you want to take the slop out of everything you can on your car.
#1401
Tech Elite
graphite suspension arms,
Guys;
The stiffer suspension parts allow the shocks to do the work instead of losing performance from the flex. For racing a stiffer chassis platform most always will handle better, more consistantly.
The stiffer suspension parts allow the shocks to do the work instead of losing performance from the flex. For racing a stiffer chassis platform most always will handle better, more consistantly.
#1402
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Hello ppl.
I might be a beginner but i HAVE noticed the improved handling with stiff chassis.overall the car was more responsive and it obeys turning commands MUCH more than previously.It's taking the lines that i want now...especially at the chicanes and tight turns.WOW.i'm beginning to grow out of my stock motor now...
in a few days i'll try a mild mod.
I might be a beginner but i HAVE noticed the improved handling with stiff chassis.overall the car was more responsive and it obeys turning commands MUCH more than previously.It's taking the lines that i want now...especially at the chicanes and tight turns.WOW.i'm beginning to grow out of my stock motor now...
in a few days i'll try a mild mod.
#1403
hingepins
Got a slight problem with my pro3. The hingepin that connects
my front arms to the c-hub always moves. The allen set
screw doesnt hold. Will the graphite c-hub make the set screw
hold the hingepin tighter or is there another way to solve
the problem. Is there a aluminum c-hub availble?
my front arms to the c-hub always moves. The allen set
screw doesnt hold. Will the graphite c-hub make the set screw
hold the hingepin tighter or is there another way to solve
the problem. Is there a aluminum c-hub availble?
#1404
hinge pin problem
place thread lock on the hole for the grub screw
or
trim the area (a little to make a flat surface) where the grub screw contacts the hinge pin
or
change to aluminum C-hubs (by Jet Racing and Square)
or
change to Ti hinge pins by HPI since it already has a flat area for the grub screw to contact it.
or
apply a small ampunt of tape at the ends of the hindge pin so it will not move
either one will help!
hope it works
or
trim the area (a little to make a flat surface) where the grub screw contacts the hinge pin
or
change to aluminum C-hubs (by Jet Racing and Square)
or
change to Ti hinge pins by HPI since it already has a flat area for the grub screw to contact it.
or
apply a small ampunt of tape at the ends of the hindge pin so it will not move
either one will help!
hope it works
#1405
Tech Elite
Hinge pins moving
JPN;
Simple solution, Apply a small dab of Shoe Goo or Silicone RTV at the end of each hinge pin and Arm. This will keep them from working there way out but still allow you to remove them when needed. (this is on the HPI site)
Lem2;
NEVER use thread lock on plastic parts. The TL will ATTACK and weaken the plastic (from my helicopter days) and cause the part to fail. Use CA on plastic, threadlock is for Metal to metal parts only.
Simple solution, Apply a small dab of Shoe Goo or Silicone RTV at the end of each hinge pin and Arm. This will keep them from working there way out but still allow you to remove them when needed. (this is on the HPI site)
Lem2;
NEVER use thread lock on plastic parts. The TL will ATTACK and weaken the plastic (from my helicopter days) and cause the part to fail. Use CA on plastic, threadlock is for Metal to metal parts only.
Last edited by popsracer; 01-08-2003 at 08:14 AM.
#1406
the Lunsford Ti turnbuckles for the pro3 also have a notch for the grub screw
#1408
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
one-way question...
i'm not sure if this was answered before on this forum but what would be the difference if you use a front one-way diff only versus using a front one-way diff & a center one-way diff. i have a front one-way diff but was thinking of purchasing a center one-way for my pro 3. your opinions... (i know what a front one-way does, faster corner speeds..) but unsure what the combination would do?
thanks,
anthony
thanks,
anthony
Last edited by nozauta619; 01-08-2003 at 11:24 PM.
#1409
Adding the centre just gives a slight more effective and efficient one-way effect.
#1410
Tech Rookie
Is a Spec V really worth $480 USD?? Because, that's what Control Centre in Hong Kong is selling them for. Seems a bit pricey to me. I presume when they say Hara Edition they are referring to Spec V?
- JT
- JT