13Likespro3
05-20-2003, 08:29 AM
#1816
Tech Adept
Sosidge,
When we first got the car our first order of business was to install a brace from the rear brace over the motor to the battery bar. As I remember, this was a recommendation on the HPI website and it virtually eliminated the front to back flex. Some of the guys in our club installed an aluminum tube that went from bulkhead to bulkhead that did the same thing, probably better. Of cource neither of these solutions did anything for the tortional flex
With respect to the "tits", for you guys on that side of the pond I'm referring to those two little "dimples" on the inside of the diff hubs that fit into the two little holes on the end of the diff outdrive that keep the hub properly lined up and in place. A suprising number of people don't read the manual and the "dimples" are so small that they don't notice them. They then can't understand why they are having trouble with the hubs not staying in place, split outdrives, etc.
I'll never forget the first time a good British friend of mine asked me if I wanted to go outside and have a fag. When my jaw hit the table he quickly explained that he was talking about a cigarette.
When we first got the car our first order of business was to install a brace from the rear brace over the motor to the battery bar. As I remember, this was a recommendation on the HPI website and it virtually eliminated the front to back flex. Some of the guys in our club installed an aluminum tube that went from bulkhead to bulkhead that did the same thing, probably better. Of cource neither of these solutions did anything for the tortional flex
With respect to the "tits", for you guys on that side of the pond I'm referring to those two little "dimples" on the inside of the diff hubs that fit into the two little holes on the end of the diff outdrive that keep the hub properly lined up and in place. A suprising number of people don't read the manual and the "dimples" are so small that they don't notice them. They then can't understand why they are having trouble with the hubs not staying in place, split outdrives, etc.
I'll never forget the first time a good British friend of mine asked me if I wanted to go outside and have a fag. When my jaw hit the table he quickly explained that he was talking about a cigarette.
Last edited by calvin; 05-20-2003 at 08:53 AM.
05-21-2003, 12:12 AM
#1817
hey calvin,
i know about the tits, (love that word!) but i still found them to be crap. they snap and whatever and you have to treat it lie an eggshell when you take the shocks off it. as the droop in the susp droop would break the littl ring in half. this is bad and i hated it, nearly sold it bcos of it. But the new ones are all good.
I hate the fact im gonna hafta spend $22 aus one a diff hub set! just to get $.02 worth of plastic!
i know about the tits, (love that word!) but i still found them to be crap. they snap and whatever and you have to treat it lie an eggshell when you take the shocks off it. as the droop in the susp droop would break the littl ring in half. this is bad and i hated it, nearly sold it bcos of it. But the new ones are all good.
I hate the fact im gonna hafta spend $22 aus one a diff hub set! just to get $.02 worth of plastic!
05-21-2003, 02:17 AM
#1818
Tech Adept
Yobbism,
I guess you're a little unlucky. I've never had a moments problem with the hub ring and I've never taken any effort to treat them with kid gloves. It sounds to me like you're running some incredible droop to have that cause you problems. We race on carpet and use a ride height somewhere between 4-5mm with an additional 2-3mm extra droop beyond that. Even if we were racing outside I wouldn't envision a ride height over 7mm and even with 3mm extra droop it shouldn't cause you problems. One of my biggest objections with setting up the PRO3 is adjusting droop since it does not have the provisions for droop adjustment except by varying the shock length. Everytime you want to change shock location or ride height you have to pull the springs, get out the calipers and start fiddling around with the shock length until you get the droop that you want. Unless you have a lot of time between rounds, it's usually too time consuming to do at the track. I guess if I wasn't so lazy, I could always take a day and make a cheat sheet by figuring out the various shock lengths that would correspond to different shock orientations, tire diameters and ride heights.
Since you have some of the extra parts, if I were you I'd purchase the additional stuff you need and make a spare diff unit. I have a spare complete and adjusted diff unit in my pit box. If for some reason the car diff is giving me problems, I can fairly guickly pop in the spare unit and fix the old one at my leisure when I get home.
Another hint that will ease a lot of wear and tear on the shock ends and A arms caused by the frequent removal and installation of the shocks is to get rid of the purple shock mount balls and use the HPI 3x4.7x6 flanged ball part #A137. You can pop these in the shock ends and leave them there. To mount the shocks I use a 3x15mm flat head machine screw and thread directly into the A arm or shock tower. Check your fit for interferences as sometimes you will need to use a 3mm nut as a spacer between the shock and its mount point. A word of caution - be very careful how you thread the screw into the nylon part to avoid stripping the nylon parts.
I guess you're a little unlucky. I've never had a moments problem with the hub ring and I've never taken any effort to treat them with kid gloves. It sounds to me like you're running some incredible droop to have that cause you problems. We race on carpet and use a ride height somewhere between 4-5mm with an additional 2-3mm extra droop beyond that. Even if we were racing outside I wouldn't envision a ride height over 7mm and even with 3mm extra droop it shouldn't cause you problems. One of my biggest objections with setting up the PRO3 is adjusting droop since it does not have the provisions for droop adjustment except by varying the shock length. Everytime you want to change shock location or ride height you have to pull the springs, get out the calipers and start fiddling around with the shock length until you get the droop that you want. Unless you have a lot of time between rounds, it's usually too time consuming to do at the track. I guess if I wasn't so lazy, I could always take a day and make a cheat sheet by figuring out the various shock lengths that would correspond to different shock orientations, tire diameters and ride heights.
Since you have some of the extra parts, if I were you I'd purchase the additional stuff you need and make a spare diff unit. I have a spare complete and adjusted diff unit in my pit box. If for some reason the car diff is giving me problems, I can fairly guickly pop in the spare unit and fix the old one at my leisure when I get home.
Another hint that will ease a lot of wear and tear on the shock ends and A arms caused by the frequent removal and installation of the shocks is to get rid of the purple shock mount balls and use the HPI 3x4.7x6 flanged ball part #A137. You can pop these in the shock ends and leave them there. To mount the shocks I use a 3x15mm flat head machine screw and thread directly into the A arm or shock tower. Check your fit for interferences as sometimes you will need to use a 3mm nut as a spacer between the shock and its mount point. A word of caution - be very careful how you thread the screw into the nylon part to avoid stripping the nylon parts.
Last edited by calvin; 05-21-2003 at 02:35 AM.
05-22-2003, 09:15 AM
#1819
Tech Regular
Thanks Calvin and Yobbism. I think the rigidity is required to stop the belt from doing strange things, as Calvin mentioned rather than for any performance gain. Car is running on a crappy carpark, so suspension wise, a twisty chassis Is not a liability. Belt tension is apparently at maximum, but has come off and skipped etc...
05-22-2003, 11:04 AM
#1820
Tech Adept
Under those conditions the biggest cause of the belt coming off is due to small pebbles getting between the belt and the pulleys as the front tires will kick up a lot of debris under the body shell. The biggest problem will be the belt that goes around the rear diff pulley. Under these conditions a flexible chassis may be the difference between something breaking or simply kicking off a belt. Our club did an exhibition race on a go-cart track that hadn't been properly cleaned. I had to pull the rear end of our car apart four times and the front once during the course of the evening - this was the last time I ever ran our car under these conditions. I ruined one spur gear (rock jammed between chassis and gear) and one rear diff pulley. If you regularly run under these conditions you might consider getting the inner body (part #7116). This will help a lot to keep out the debris, but keep an eye on the temperatures. The best solution is to run on a properly prepared and cleaned track.
Last edited by calvin; 05-22-2003 at 11:19 AM.
08-01-2003, 04:54 PM
#1821
bringing an old thread back to life!!!
08-01-2003, 08:37 PM
#1822
So there is a Pro 3 thread!?!
I have a spec V pro 3, how are you guys doing with these? I usually finish mid field, but I'm getting lapped by guys with Pro 2's. Is the Pro 3 actually an upgrade from the Pro 2?
Granted I still need to get my car dialed in.
I have a spec V pro 3, how are you guys doing with these? I usually finish mid field, but I'm getting lapped by guys with Pro 2's. Is the Pro 3 actually an upgrade from the Pro 2?
Granted I still need to get my car dialed in.
08-01-2003, 09:15 PM
#1823
My best finish with my pro 3 is 2nd in the A-main against TC3's, xxx-s's, X-rays, etc.
08-03-2003, 09:32 PM
#1824
Trouble with my Pro 3
I seem to be dumb about this...After servicing my car, it seems to have a problem that I tried to solve without success...
The car will oversteer when I turn left but good when I turn right..
All setting is good before I service the car.. I only clean the bearings, rebuild the shock and the diff.. diff are not too tight and not too loose...
Can anyone help me??
The car will oversteer when I turn left but good when I turn right..
All setting is good before I service the car.. I only clean the bearings, rebuild the shock and the diff.. diff are not too tight and not too loose...
Can anyone help me??
08-03-2003, 10:49 PM
#1826
Originally posted by lee82gx
maybe bcos the track ur at has high speed left turns and only low speed right turns?
i know,as i also play there!!hehe.
what about steering travel on both sides?ackermann balanced or not?
maybe bcos the track ur at has high speed left turns and only low speed right turns?
i know,as i also play there!!hehe.
what about steering travel on both sides?ackermann balanced or not?
I do the turn on straight line.. so, the speed should be equal..
any idea??
08-05-2003, 02:11 AM
#1830
Originally posted by lee82gx
hey also maybe ur one way bearing on either side is gone...
hey also maybe ur one way bearing on either side is gone...
The one that is lost is on the right-hand side and the problem that I have is oversteering when turning sharp left...
