Associated RC12R5
11-02-2009, 11:08 AM
#1756
Small correction there Robert, even with a "zero-tweak block" you have to check the car for tweak. After a serieus race with or without crashes the car can be tweaked and therefore you need to check if the chassis is still straight. The only advantage of using a zero-tweak block is that if the car IS tweaked, you know that there is something wrong other than just a bruised T-bar.
And yes, if you get into a sidewall crash. That is killing for T-bars (and I am very experienced with that ;-) )
And yes, if you get into a sidewall crash. That is killing for T-bars (and I am very experienced with that ;-) )
Thanks Joost, that's what I meant :-)
Best Regards
Robert
11-02-2009, 03:43 PM
#1757
The recent discussions regarding tweak have me thinking. Over the past several weeks my car has become quite inconsistent. When you speak of chassis tweak are you checking on a tweak station or putting the car on a known flat surface and looking for tweak ..... or both ? My car checks out OK on a tweak station (few very minor adjustments needed), however, I've never checked it on a flat surface. Also, the comments regarding the rear standoffs have me thinking as well. I've never really checked these either ....
11-02-2009, 08:55 PM
#1759
The recent discussions regarding tweak have me thinking. Over the past several weeks my car has become quite inconsistent. When you speak of chassis tweak are you checking on a tweak station or putting the car on a known flat surface and looking for tweak ..... or both ? My car checks out OK on a tweak station (few very minor adjustments needed), however, I've never checked it on a flat surface. Also, the comments regarding the rear standoffs have me thinking as well. I've never really checked these either ....
A good way to check if a part is still flat and straight is to put it on a glass plate. Glass is really flat and so you can see or feel if a part is bend...
11-03-2009, 02:26 AM
#1760
Both! It is good to use a tweak station but on that you can only see and adjust the tweak in the complete car. Try rebuilding the car every once in a while and check each (flat) part if it still is that way. The motorplate, left bulkhead, lower pod plate, main chassis... All parts that should be FLAT and if they are not they can cause tweak which offcoarse you can adjust but they are not 100% so the car is not 100%. Check this every now and then and replace parts when needed...
A good way to check if a part is still flat and straight is to put it on a glass plate. Glass is really flat and so you can see or feel if a part is bend...
A good way to check if a part is still flat and straight is to put it on a glass plate. Glass is really flat and so you can see or feel if a part is bend...
I've noticed that with the R5.1 rear and you can easely tweak both bulkheads with the blue rod between them. I'm screwing them on a glass plate (just the rod, left and rear bulkhead) and ensure that they are both flat. Then I'm mount the bottom plate and ensure that's also flat.
When you don't to this it's easly possible that your rearpod is tweaked for a whole mm :| (didn't notice it the first time)
Best Regards
Robert
11-03-2009, 03:34 AM
#1761
+1
I've noticed that with the R5.1 rear and you can easely tweak both bulkheads with the blue rod between them. I'm screwing them on a glass plate (just the rod, left and rear bulkhead) and ensure that they are both flat. Then I'm mount the bottom plate and ensure that's also flat.
When you don't to this it's easly possible that your rearpod is tweaked for a whole mm :| (didn't notice it the first time)
Best Regards
Robert
I've noticed that with the R5.1 rear and you can easely tweak both bulkheads with the blue rod between them. I'm screwing them on a glass plate (just the rod, left and rear bulkhead) and ensure that they are both flat. Then I'm mount the bottom plate and ensure that's also flat.
When you don't to this it's easly possible that your rearpod is tweaked for a whole mm :| (didn't notice it the first time)
Best Regards
Robert
11-05-2009, 11:57 AM
#1762
All great ideas ..... Thanks ! I'll tear the car apart this weekend and see what evil lurks within .....
11-05-2009, 04:31 PM
#1763
Tech Master
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Is it normal for the shock to bottom out in its travel before the chassis?
I am trying to fix someone elses 12r5b and noticed this,there also isn't a lot of static droop-- maybe 1-2 mm before it bottoms out on up travel.This is with the stock thru-shock.I have a Gen xl so am not familiar with this.
when setting the rear pod for a "flat droop"with all gear onboard there seems to be very little downtravel before the shock bottoms out.I'm thinkin somethings wrong but will ask here b/4 tearing into someone elses car--thnx-
I am trying to fix someone elses 12r5b and noticed this,there also isn't a lot of static droop-- maybe 1-2 mm before it bottoms out on up travel.This is with the stock thru-shock.I have a Gen xl so am not familiar with this.
when setting the rear pod for a "flat droop"with all gear onboard there seems to be very little downtravel before the shock bottoms out.I'm thinkin somethings wrong but will ask here b/4 tearing into someone elses car--thnx-
11-05-2009, 05:45 PM
#1764
Tech Apprentice
Insufficient rear travel could be caused by improper assembly of the rear shock. There is a spacer that goes on one side of the piston to limit rear droop. If it's installed on the wrong side it could cause the rear shock to bottom out too early.
11-05-2009, 07:26 PM
#1765
Even when built correctly the car "may" not completely bottom out, especially true as you increase pod droop. Many people are running a 2 or 2.5 mm spacer instead of the standard 4 mm inside of the shock. This will allow as much droop as is necessary, and still allow the chassis to move through its entire suspension movement. A standard antenna tube works nicely cut to the desired thickness.
HTH
HTH
11-05-2009, 09:54 PM
#1766
What other shocks can be use for the side and center shocks? I stripped the shock rod eyelet while screwing onto shock body, kinda like the Serpent RCC shocks.
11-05-2009, 10:16 PM
#1767
And are there any aftermarket shock caps or upgraded ones from AE? All of our guys running the R5 have had problems with the caps stripping at some point.
11-05-2009, 10:23 PM
#1768
I assume you guys worked it out, but i was setting the droop with the little grub screw (when i first got the car), before i realised that that the part had a square end designed to be a turn buckle so you dont have to fiddle with the grub screw.
Initially i had the turnbuckle screwed all the way in so there wasnt much room for droop adjustment when i was using the grub screw :P
Initially i had the turnbuckle screwed all the way in so there wasnt much room for droop adjustment when i was using the grub screw :P
11-06-2009, 12:15 AM
#1769
12R5.1
Hey all, just bought my first pan car,a 12R5.1 and would have finished building it except that it has some parts missing, has anyone had any experience with dealing with Associated about getting replacement parts, cheers.
11-06-2009, 02:06 AM
#1770
hi guys, when using 1s lipo, do you place the lipo in the forward or backward position and how do you tape it to the chassis to prevent movement?
Any pics of yr car would be appreciated.
Any pics of yr car would be appreciated.