KJR

I've been using the speedmerchant tube conversion and springs for some time now. I changed the tubes to CRC one as no one at the events I was racing at was using the speedmerchant ones and I needed something to use as a comparison for setup.
I use 7k in the tubes and .22 springs. I've moved the spring inboard so they act directly on the chassis and not onto the side links. I also run the battery in the traditional layout even though I'm using the inline chassis.

Quite simply it's now the best handling car I've ever had. Works at every track and I only tune the car by using different compound tyre or additive time.

gguertin145

iTrader: (9)

On those conversions can you just buy the top plate and the damper tubes or is this a entire rear pod conversion?

gguertin145

iTrader: (9)

never mind found it.

Anyone know what the whole rear pod they offer is supposed to do?

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

This probably has been asked but searching came up with nothing I was looking for.

Has anyone used the CRC 16 ball (3/32") spur gears?

I just tried to set one up and I think the flanged bearings stick out too far so the balls don't engage the rings.

Anyone one know the set up?

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

the pod is made by team tamale. ride height is fully adjustable on the pod without the use of spacers. just loosen the rear pod and move axle up or down! its pretty sweet. makes ride height adjustments a breeze!

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

speed merchant tube conversion makes the car alot easier to drive and much more consistent! onpoint was supposed to be making just a tube conversion for the r5/5.1/5.1 lipo but i guess they put it off for now. go with the speed merchant you wont be dissapointed

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

Ive been running the 12R5.2 on the carpet for a few months now... and have tested a lot of setup configurations. My car was rarely the same at any given practice/race day up until ~2 weeks ago... and it was rarely the same during any given round/session, either.

I found a setup using the lateral shock w/ 25wt oil and the AE Black springs that was fairly easy to drive and quite consistent over the course of a run. And most of all, it was fast. The car was very competitive, keeping up with guys who I consider better drivers than myself... especially considering my relative lack of experience with the link-style 12th scales and carpet in particular.

Prior to the last race day, I installed the Speed Merchant damper tube conversion and the linear side springs. Given my previous setup with the lateral shock and progressive springs(25wt w/ black springs), I started with 15k in the tubes and the SM .018 linear springs.

One of the first things I noticed was that the car was more consistent through the corner. The steering effort felt more linear and the car didnt "pivot" as much as it did with the side shock/progressive springs. This had a two-part effect.... Firstly, it made the car quite easy to drive cleanly. I think I had only 2 board taps all day. Although, I did get into it with lapped traffic in every heat... but that was due more to inexperienced drivers as well as my impatience. With the side shock, it was slightly more difficult to keep the car clean and off the boards for the entire 8 mins.

And secondly... the damper tube conversion w/ 15k lube and the .018 springs made the car less responsive with less steering. Which, in turn, resulted in slower lap times. I tried 10k lube in the car for the last heat and I couldnt really tell a difference between the 10k and 15k. I would like to try the damper tubes with the Associated progressive springs... this way I can eliminate the other variables, and determine the effect that changing the method of lateral damping has on the car.

Overall, I will certainly continue to play with it. It didnt do anything to the car that I consider negative... but it didn't transform the car, either. It did, however, make the car easier to drive consistently. If I can find a setup that yields lap times as quick as the shock/progressive spring combo, but with the consistency of the damper tube setup, I would be thrilled. And I dont doubt that I can find a setup like that.... but with 3 months on the car with the side shock and only one day with the damper tubes, the car is definitely faster for me with the side shock setup at this point.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Great post.
Thanks for relating all the info from your testing.

So far, I am in favour of green side springs for tight tracks, and silver side for high speed layouts.
Black is a bit too touchy, and blue makes the car understeer mid corner.

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

Hey JamesL_71,


Here's a few things to try. Im running a Cefx griffin its similar to the R5 Im not sure what your front end setup and if your running the inline setup and tires you use. but try this:


Front:
10* Caster
.18 spring
15k lube on kingpin
1.5* camber
1/2* toe out
1.55" front with no CA on outer tire
3.2mm - 3.5mm front ride height
if you have the front graphite brace (take it out)

Center spring:
Gold
.18 The linear side you lose a little steering but this setup should bring it back. You can try the .20 linear side spring if you do go to the blue center spring.

If your running a Protoform body mount it 5mm forward. if not run the Calandra Audi body and mount it the normal way.


hope this help's your car should be blazin with this setup.

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

Wow, cool research! I am running tubes as well with the traditional( non-inline) 5.1! I am running 20wt in tubes and silver or blue side springs and the car handles perfect for me. Maybe before you rule out the tubes also go thicker on the lube a bit and try that too. Also I am running blue center and 020 front spring.

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

Hi Mike,

My setup is very similar to what you posted above, except I am running AE .020 front springs and a 2mm spacer to lengthen the upper arm. I am using the blue center spring, also. The rest is basically identical(I am running 17.5 blinky 12th, btw).

I went back and looked at my notes from the last time I ran the car(which was with the damper tube conversion), and I specifically noted that the car lacked mid-corner steering compared to the previous setup with the side shock and progressive springs. This made it harder to hold a tight line through some of the corners.

I will continue to test and experiment... and I will let you guys know if I find anything else out.

Blue Screw

Yesthe CRC 16 ball spur gear is a very nice addition... very smooth and is a the nice addition to ur car...
you are correct though the gear is def thinner cause dont for get the 3/32 balls are smaller.. I always use a non flanged cermic bearing in my gear anyway.. but i gave a spur to a Good buddy of mine with the stock axle,reg flanged bearingsand we had a prob he couldnt get the diff to tighten up and the nut was locked.. i looked at it and we inspected it... I THINK it was a while ago so dont hold me to it there was one of 2 thing we did.. either add some shims after the flange bear on the hub then cone then nutto make upthe difference... but i had a couple extra slapmaster thurst and we put that on and still had to put a shim or totomake up the differnce sooo check that out... but like i said dont hold me to it cause it was a while back, and this is with the stock kit ae axle and hubs...I have on my car a a IRS setup im good friends with the owner and run for Mr.Irrgang i think my offset is a little differentnot for any special reason just because i wanted a stealthly looking car so i tried to get any blue alum off and replace with black...

Daniel W

Hey AreCee

I had the same problem with the CRC 16 ball (3/32") spur gear.

Looking at the Spur Gear you`ll notice that its thinner than a standard (1/8") style Spur Gear so the whole diff setup is lower on the axle shaft.

When building the diff up build it normally(I use a non flanged being on the spur gear face)including the thrust cone minus the washer and you can see the top of the carbon axle flush with the top of the cone not allowing anoth clearance for the washer and nut to tighten the diff together.

My solution which is the same as the last post is to add a 1mm (1/4") axle shim over the outer bearing then the thrust cone and nut then it should be smooth as silk

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

My issue was that i only have flanged bearing in that size so I needed to order the unflanged variety. Shimming isn't an issue.

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

Hey JamesL_71,


In the front end Take out that 2mm spacer in the upper arm. And put a 1mm spacer on the lower arm mount.And take out the .20 spring and replace it with a .18

You didn't post what tire combo your running.