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Old 08-12-2009, 02:48 PM   #1426
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
What size threading is the tie rod on the front suspension upper arm?
I'm pretty sure they are 3mm.

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Originally Posted by HappyHippo View Post
Parts from RC10R5O

8536 FT Motor Mount
8537 FT Left Rear Bulkhead
8538 FT Motor Mount Standoff

The rest I didn't find...
8536 and 8537 are the correct bulkheads.
8538 is for the oval car and will NOT work with the on-road pod!
Correct numbers for the other R5.1 parts are
4687 Motor mount standoff
4688 Graphite shock mount

We do not have the parts available yet. They should be out soon.
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:49 PM   #1427
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Does anyone know whether it is possible to get rear hubs which are narrower than the standard ones? Im looking to get the rear wheels narrower and have already taken out all the shims.

Thanks,
Martin
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:54 PM   #1428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
I'm pretty sure they are 3mm.



8536 and 8537 are the correct bulkheads.
8538 is for the oval car and will NOT work with the on-road pod!
Correct numbers for the other R5.1 parts are
4687 Motor mount standoff
4688 Graphite shock mount

We do not have the parts available yet. They should be out soon.
Thanks Sean
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:57 PM   #1429
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Does anyone know whether it is possible to get rear hubs which are narrower than the standard ones? Im looking to get the rear wheels narrower and have already taken out all the shims.

Thanks,
Martin
4608 is narrower than the original kit hub. You can also file or grind off some of the clamp hub to make it narrower.
Which wheel brand are you using?
How narrow are you trying to get?
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Old 08-12-2009, 03:03 PM   #1430
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DoH! just ordered some stuff and couldve got the 4608 wheel hub. Was actually wondering if the part number was listed wrong in the manual like the diff rings.

Thanks for the reply yeah i was thinking about grinding it down but it seemed a little dodgy to me. At least the left side i should be able to grind down safely.

As for the tyres i have some speedminds and they seem to be a little wide on the standard axle
My friend runs a BMI and he reckons its fine on his car but on the r5 it definitely stick out side of the body but only fractionally maybe about 1 mm.
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:36 PM   #1431
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Sean Cochran-
With the Speed 12 body when would you find it helpful or necesary to use the gurney flap?
Thanks,
E
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:47 PM   #1432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
I'm pretty sure they are 3mm.



8536 and 8537 are the correct bulkheads.
8538 is for the oval car and will NOT work with the on-road pod!
Correct numbers for the other R5.1 parts are
4687 Motor mount standoff
4688 Graphite shock mount

We do not have the parts available yet. They should be out soon.
Are all the parts needed, besides the ones above, be available as a conversion kit?
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:54 PM   #1433
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Are the king pins then a metric diameter as well or the standard 1/8"?
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:17 PM   #1434
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post

I adjusted the droop spacer and went back up to a gold spring. Then I went back to 20s in the front and blue side springs in the rear. Both of those changes seemed to make the car easier to drive through the whole run.
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That's the changes I made. Gold center spring, .20 front, blue side springs. 25wt center, 35wt on the side dampening (i really liked that change). Lilacs up front with Yellows on the rear and then tweaked the pod droop a bit. Running .5mm pod droop now. This is on a medium bite track, some bumps but the 4mm ride height makes those nothing.
I will add a third to the Gold shock spring with a blue side spring. Very nice balance of on/off power steering and side bite. More consistent and easier to drive.

I like a lighter shock setup for some reason. 20wt side with 35 shock. Picked up a tenth when going from 25wt to 20wt. Also 20k instead of 30k on king pins. I was running black front and pink rears. .5mm pod droop. 3.0mm ride height f/r. Still have the .018s in and no plan to pull them either. Was Very happy with the car. It only fell off .2 a run. I just have to find 2 more tenths and its all good !!

One thing, every lipo car I have run has worn the front tires more than the rear. This car is the first car to wear the rear tires more.

DK
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Old 08-13-2009, 04:01 AM   #1435
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finally got my batteries so now my 12R5 is complete. i am running it as it came from the kit but i do have all the rear ride height adjusters.

Are people running drag brake or normal brake with the 1/12ths. i heard drag brake but i never used it so i'm not sure if i should start and get used to it or just stick with normal brakes.

I have started with a rollout of 53mm for my 10.5. hope this is not too high. i am still waiting on some pinions to get here if i need to lower this.

what are people using to measure the diameter of there rear tires accurately?

i love how this thing drives..... so much cooler than 1/10th tourer i had

rain for the next week here though. and no indoor track yet
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Old 08-13-2009, 04:36 AM   #1436
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also,
i bought a kimbrough spur gear with 12 balls fitted. i left 12 in where the kit only has 6 in the spur. does it matter that i have 12 or should i pull 6 out?

thanks
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Old 08-13-2009, 05:53 AM   #1437
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Originally Posted by HaraR40 View Post
also,
i bought a kimbrough spur gear with 12 balls fitted. i left 12 in where the kit only has 6 in the spur. does it matter that i have 12 or should i pull 6 out?

thanks
I use calipers to measure the tires. You can get them pretty cheap.
Yes, run as many balls in the spur as you can get away with. The more you have the more power your diff can take. It add's a touch of weight but a no slip diff that works like butter is what you have to have.

DK
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Old 08-13-2009, 05:56 AM   #1438
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Originally Posted by PartTime View Post
I like a lighter shock setup for some reason. 20wt side with 35 shock. Picked up a tenth when going from 25wt to 20wt. Also 20k instead of 30k on king pins. I was running black front and pink rears. .5mm pod droop. 3.0mm ride height f/r. Still have the .018s in and no plan to pull them either. Was Very happy with the car. It only fell off .2 a run. I just have to find 2 more tenths and its all good !!

One thing, every lipo car I have run has worn the front tires more than the rear. This car is the first car to wear the rear tires more. DK
I've noticed the same on the tire wear. Ideally I would like to get it more equal as I would spend less time managing tire sizes on the truer. I may have to give the lighter side dampening another try.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HaraR40 View Post
finally got my batteries so now my 12R5 is complete. i am running it as it came from the kit but i do have all the rear ride height adjusters.

Are people running drag brake or normal brake with the 1/12ths. i heard drag brake but i never used it so i'm not sure if i should start and get used to it or just stick with normal brakes.

I have started with a rollout of 53mm for my 10.5. hope this is not too high. i am still waiting on some pinions to get here if i need to lower this.

what are people using to measure the diameter of there rear tires accurately?

i love how this thing drives..... so much cooler than 1/10th tourer i had

rain for the next week here though. and no indoor track yet
Some people like drag brake and other's don't. With a 10.5 I would probably would use some drag brake, but it would also depend on the track layout. Some only use drag brake but others only use push brake and then some others like to use both.

I don't get the privilege of racing with a 10.5 so I don't know the range of gearing people are using for those motors. You will find that gearing is dependent on track size and layout, esc, motor type and your personal driving style. I've seen motors of the same type and brand require up to 5mm in rollout differences to be equally fast on the track with the same driver and esc. You should use gearing recommendations on RCTech as just that, recommendations, and use practice and race data to find your optimium roll-out by gearing for best laptimes. I do not gear by heat, only laptimes. Check your heat to make sure you arn't going to blow a motor but always gear for laptimes.

Most people use calipers to measure tire size. You can get a cheap digital set at Harbor Freight that works well for fairly cheap.
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Old 08-13-2009, 06:07 AM   #1439
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yeah i have a set of vernier calipers... might get a cheap 6inch set to fit in my rc toolbox.

What is the safe max temp i can go with my motor? so obviously going as hot as you safely can doesnt mean its the fastest then.

I'll play around with brakes and see whats the best. i might leave it on drag brake for a while and see if i can adjust to it.

what is the max ride height i should go? the track is asphalt and has one largeish bump in it that cant be avoided. i want to go as high as i can without loosing handling performance so that i dont scratch the hell out of my chassis. i was thinking 5.5mm front and rear? is this too much?

thanks for your help
Alex
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Old 08-13-2009, 11:07 AM   #1440
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Sean Cochran-
With the Speed 12 body when would you find it helpful or necesary to use the gurney flap?
Thanks,
E
I don't normally run one on carpet. I would use it anytime there is low grip, usually on slick asphalt tracks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyU View Post
Are all the parts needed, besides the ones above, be available as a conversion kit?
I don't think they are planning to make a conversion. I think they will just offer the parts seperate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Are the king pins then a metric diameter as well or the standard 1/8"?
The king pins are still 1/8th.
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