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Old 02-26-2008, 05:04 PM   #121
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mm, but it sure does taste damn good! ill see what i can do, as long as i dont paint it all gold, and let it be called jam car
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Old 03-01-2008, 11:30 AM   #122
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has anyone noticed the captured front upper suspension arm? do you think it would be possible to put that on the existing front end, because the only difference is that little extension.

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Old 03-01-2008, 04:00 PM   #123
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So when does this kit come out? Maybe my ticket back to carpet racing.
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:08 PM   #124
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said to be some time in March, for $200. Great price, but a weird release time, since asphalt is soon going to be in season. I wonder if their releasing replacements same time.
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Old 03-01-2008, 09:55 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest View Post
I have to respectfully disagree Mr. Arluck. An AE Strut front end, built with IRS lower arms, CRC's upper arms, caster blocks, and steering blocks, along with Niftech's pivotballs and Lunsford's Turnbuckles, tie-rods and kingpins makes a front-end that performs as least as well, if not better than the stock AE parts.

But on topic, Bob's done an outstanding job on this car.
You must be an oval racer....

Yeah, I have an AE Style front-end made by IRS and CRC. The only thing AE about it is the bolt pattern and the base for the geometry which is changed when I add the IRS castor blocks.
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Old 03-01-2008, 10:02 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by Ferrarimk13 View Post
has anyone noticed the captured front upper suspension arm? do you think it would be possible to put that on the existing front end, because the only difference is that little extension.

I am thinkings you will need to have Upper Eye and Kingping with pivot ball end to make the conversion. No need to worry about using the upper arm. Just screw it on the camber turnbuckle.

The Hot ticket I see that I will buy right now is the castor shims. Did anyone notice that they are nylon C-Clips. I am sure they will save me the hassle of fishing little white shims into the gaps to set caster. It matters.
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:26 AM   #127
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So when does this kit come out? Maybe my ticket back to carpet racing.
Why, is Trans-Am Still too fast for you jk
It would be good to see you back.
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:42 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
I am thinkings you will need to have Upper Eye and Kingping with pivot ball end to make the conversion. No need to worry about using the upper arm. Just screw it on the camber turnbuckle.

The Hot ticket I see that I will buy right now is the castor shims. Did anyone notice that they are nylon C-Clips. I am sure they will save me the hassle of fishing little white shims into the gaps to set caster. It matters.
yeah, those look good, but they wouldnt fall off right?
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:47 PM   #129
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I have never ran 1/12 but i have a question that I would like to know from some of you experienced guys? I know physically what the difference is between a T-plate design and a non T-plate, but what is/are the advantages/disadvantages of each? Is it just a preference or does one work better than the other in different circumstances? It seems like theres alot of people on here who are more interested in the T-plate version, just curious as to why?
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:44 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by WailinOnYa View Post
I have never ran 1/12 but i have a question that I would like to know from some of you experienced guys? I know physically what the difference is between a T-plate design and a non T-plate, but what is/are the advantages/disadvantages of each? Is it just a preference or does one work better than the other in different circumstances? It seems like theres alot of people on here who are more interested in the T-plate version, just curious as to why?
IMO a t-bar car tends to be a little more stable and is usually better on a bumpy surface (hence why some people prefer them on asphalt). The biggest drawback to me is tha fact that it's easier to break a T-bar than it is to break a link car. I've usually been a tick faster with a link car on med bite carpet than I am with a t-bar car, but the t-bar car usually feels less twitchy. Both good designs, with a little bit different feel.
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:33 PM   #131
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Default Is this a diff cover ?

Is this some sort of diff cover to keep it clean or is this a "one way" diff or something? Just learning all this stuff. Seems like a diff cover would be a good idea . . .

http://www.rc50.com/modules/coppermi...8/PICT6457.JPG
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:47 PM   #132
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Is this some sort of diff cover to keep it clean or is this a "one way" diff or something? Just learning all this stuff. Seems like a diff cover would be a good idea . . .

http://www.rc50.com/modules/coppermi...8/PICT6457.JPG
Just diff covers that you can get for any 1/12th scale car that uses a Kimbrough gear.
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:57 PM   #133
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I need those . . .

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Just diff covers that you can get for any 1/12th scale car that uses a Kimbrough gear.
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:51 PM   #134
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Those white gear covers are Kimbrough diff covers for kimbrough gears.

The biggest plus about using them is that they keep the diff lube from slinging on the gear and getting dirty fast. Also I can go longer between diff builds.

To use them. You have to remove the axle from the car, which should be done anyways when building a diff.

I like to take sandpaper, 320 or finer and sand the covers shorter. I sand the covers till they are barely above the diff ring but not touching. This will keep the tire dust and debris out.
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Old 03-05-2008, 05:34 PM   #135
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yeah, that cover looks like a good idea, carpet in the diffs doesnt sound too good, and those balls are annoying to keep lubing, and popping in and out.
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