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Old 03-14-2009, 08:32 AM   #1156
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as most will tell you 46.5 is quite large for a rear tire. But i will start mine at that size for club races. usually the fronts I like them to be 2mm smaller. it seam that any less stager and the car pushes. I would go to a larger stager to add steering, but not much more then 2.5mm.

also if you tend to hit boards, you might want to cut them a little smaller. like say 42 front and 44 rear. just to help reduce chuncking. large tires are easy to chunk.

one more helpful advice is to glue the bead on the tires. expecially the yellow. they tend to chunk quite easily. I have chuncked yellow with no board hits. so I try to ca the bead almost every run just to reduce the chunking.
What's the bead on the tire ? Is it the sidewall ?

Do I also CA the fronts or wait and see how they perform ?
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:40 AM   #1157
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BTW it also matters a lot what brand CA u r using for sidewalls, some of them just peels off after 1-2 runs. I have already saved bunch of money on tires with the CS SideWall Protection glue. The next best thing is the Loctite Super Attak Precision glue, which you will probably find in any department store. Perhaps other racers have found something that works just as well.
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Old 03-14-2009, 12:14 PM   #1158
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Here's a quick question maybe the Oval guys can help me out ?
I want to use a Novak GTB 4-Cell Competition Brushed/Brushless Electronic Speed Control with my 12R5 1/12 pan car.

Will it work with the SMC 1S lipo and TQ booster ? Do I disable anything for the lipo cutoff because it is 1 cell ?

How about wiring , anything special with this hookup ?

Thanks
Steve
Steve,

I know a few guys running the GTB 4 cell with no rx pack or booster. IF you want to run a booster, there's no special wiring needed. Attach the booster input leads to the smc battery, plug the booster into the receiver, leave the GTB switch OFF. I don't know if the TQ booster has its own switch, if it does, that will turn everything on. If it has no switch, then plugging it into the receiver will turn everything on.

I don't know if you have to disable the voltage cutoff on the novak... I don't even know if the 4 cell novak has a voltage cutoff.
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Old 03-14-2009, 01:59 PM   #1159
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OK thanks Trips.
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:36 PM   #1160
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What's the bead on the tire ? Is it the sidewall ?

Do I also CA the fronts or wait and see how they perform ?

where the foam meets the wheel. i don't glue the sidewalls. I think that does not do much in saving the tire from chunking. actually I think it causes it to chunk more. i just make sure the foam stays on the wheel.
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:41 PM   #1161
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w w w.teamyokomo.com/jpn/news/order_sheet/090311_rc12r5we.pdf

whats new on this one?
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:52 PM   #1162
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w w w.teamyokomo.com/jpn/news/order_sheet/090311_rc12r5we.pdf

whats new on this one?
the center brace that goes below the side dampner. Also alumn. side spring holders. All else looks the same w/o really looking for anything that different.
E
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Old 03-16-2009, 05:40 PM   #1163
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Looks like the brace, side plates and hub are going to be a conversion? Am I reading it right?
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:23 PM   #1164
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For anyone who can understand Japanese, id there a way to order just the brace and spring retainers?
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Old 03-19-2009, 03:46 PM   #1165
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Here's what I found when running this past weekend.

I used a 13.5 with 1S SMC + TQ Booster + 42T/72T gearing + Rear tire size 46mm (Rollout 84mm) + 8 minute main.

Pack had 33% capacity left in it at the end of the 8 minutes.

My Novak 13.5 was only at 110F and my fastest lap was 6.23 sec.

Question:

When I tried my 17.5 and played with the gearing/rollout I was never able to get it over 95F. And now with the 13.5 I am at 110F. Is this because of the lower voltage in the 1S lipo ? Trying to reach 160F seems impossible like the others with 4 cell NIMH packs.
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Old 03-19-2009, 03:53 PM   #1166
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Originally Posted by Canuck View Post
Here's what I found when running this past weekend.

I used a 13.5 with 1S SMC + TQ Booster + 42T/72T gearing + Rear tire size 46mm (Rollout 84mm) + 8 minute main.

Pack had 33% capacity left in it at the end of the 8 minutes.

My Novak 13.5 was only at 110F and my fastest lap was 6.23 sec.

Question:

When I tried my 17.5 and played with the gearing/rollout I was never able to get it over 95F. And now with the 13.5 I am at 110F. Is this because of the lower voltage in the 1S lipo ? Trying to reach 160F seems impossible like the others with 4 cell NIMH packs.

How were you pace wise with the 4cell nimh cars with 13.5? 17.5? If your on pace at those temps then you have nothing to worry about. Remember that your carrying alot less weight around the track so temps could/should be lower depending on the track layout and driving style.
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Old 03-19-2009, 04:00 PM   #1167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck View Post
Question:

When I tried my 17.5 and played with the gearing/rollout I was never able to get it over 95F. And now with the 13.5 I am at 110F. Is this because of the lower voltage in the 1S lipo ? Trying to reach 160F seems impossible like the others with 4 cell NIMH packs.
Don't gear for a target temperature, gear for lap times. When the lap times stop getting better, stop adding teeth. ONly look at the temperature to know you're not overheating.

My 4 cell 17.5 car when geared for best lap times was coming off the track at around 140, my 3.7/13.5 comes off around 112 or so.
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Old 03-19-2009, 04:03 PM   #1168
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check it



http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...2r5-fresh.html
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Old 03-19-2009, 04:14 PM   #1169
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I was a tad shy from a 4 cell driver but he was a good driver also ! So I guess I was geaered OK.

With my 17.5 I played around a lot with the gearing and the temp did not change much so I guess I will have to keep a better eye on the lap times ....
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Old 03-19-2009, 04:52 PM   #1170
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I would like to know what would be the best rear axle / hub / diff setup or aftermarket part for the 12R5 ?

Any suggestions ?
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